Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2012 Hisun 700 EFI, marketed in Canada back when I bought it under the Name "Power Max Rough Rider" I have had my issues over the years that always seem to come back to poor "economical wiring" 

My issue is that on occasion I have a sudden and temporary loss of power. This occurs at two diffrent times. Both after the machine is good and warm.

1. Cruising down the road, the power will suddenly drop to nothing, I can press the throttle and habe a slight raise in RPM* but not high enough to engage clutches. This will last about 10 to 15 second, and of course right before I have rolled to a total stop, she come back on line. 

2. Lower speed work, I plow with this machine. I will say come to a stop and the machine will not idle but drop down to well below idle and then die, upon  restart the RPM does not come up to idle speed, but choke around 500 then die again. This occurs a few times, then we are back to normal. 

*the RPM guage drops to zero even with the engine still running (digital) then when the unit returns to normal it also works. 

I still have full electrical at all times. I have a few modifications on the unit. I run a double deep cycle/starting marine batteries in the winter, as I plow, this means I use the wench alot. I have an LED light bar, and added a hydraulic pump to turn the plow. Lastly a small heater core with a small fan to keep me warm. 

I will also note that the speedometer has not functioned in a bit, just reads 00 I figure this another "economical" wiring issue, that I really don't care about, unless it's leading to another issue. 

I have had to rewire a few things, like a few connectors. Replaced some wires that have shorted, or oddly have become damaged. I have changed a few relays, and the 4x4 switch, and servo. Any extra ls added have been added on a seprate isolated circuits thru its own fuse box. 

I have a very mild thought it may be a throttle postion sensor. 

Hoping someone can lead some insight, or at least point me where to begin investigating.

I would love this fixed, I have to drive down the road to get into the back section of the property where I shot. 

Thank you. 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By CapnWalleye
      Just picked up a Hisun 500 that had shift issues (corroded fan gear) which I fixed. It also didn't seem to be running smoothly then all of a sudden it got worse. It seems to miss on both idle and when pushing the gas pedal to the floor and doesn't seem to be running at full power. I've been working with a local person who is walking me through some steps, but I'd like some input from this group as well. What I've done:
      - drained the fuel tank and replaced it with 93 octane fuel and added heet to help with any water problems.
      - replaced the fuel injector.
      - disconnected the battery (several times) to allow the module to reset.
      - set the valve clearance, both intake and exhaust, within specs ... intake was tight but exhaust seemed fine.
      - replaced the battery.
      - replaced the O2 sensor.
      Nothing has helped. Not sure what the next steps are, but would appreciate any expertise that can be offered here.
       
    • By CapnWalleye
      Just picked up a Cub Cadet 500 that had shift issues (corroded fan gear) which I fixed. It also didn't seem to be running smoothly then all of a sudden it got worse. It seems to miss on both idle and when pushing the gas pedal to the floor and doesn't seem to be running at full power. I've been working with a local person who is walking me through some steps, but I'd like some input from this group as well. What I've done:
      - drained the fuel tank and replaced it with 93 octane fuel and added heet to help with any water problems.
      - replaced the fuel injector.
      - disconnected the battery (several times) to allow the module to reset.
      - set the valve clearance, both intake and exhaust, within specs ... intake was tight but exhaust seemed fine.
      - replaced the battery.
      - replaced the O2 sensor.
      Nothing has helped. Not sure what the next steps are, but would appreciate any expertise that can be offered here.
       
    • By Dennis
      I have  a bulldog i bought from home depot in 2013.  In the last season it started refusing to shift from neutral to either forward or reverse.  I changed the trans axle fluid and made sure the cables were lubricated and free.  With a lot of coaxing, I can sometimes get it to shift.  once I start driving it, things improve until I let it set awhile.   Any suggestion on where to go from here?
    • By Homeowner A
      Is there a code reader available for the Coleman UTV 400?  I tried using the HUD ECU Hacker software and cables/adapters but no luck OBD to delphi 6 pin and KKL VAG as well as ELM327.  Will not connect.  I was able to get it to connect randomly a couple of times, but haven't been able to since.  I was able to clear and read the codes briefly.  I'm aware of the Tiny Scan 301 but it doesn't seem to be readily available.  There's a few out there but they are expensive.  
    • By Marie
      hello, i need help figuring out where all these wires go on this battery. I can't seem to find any pictures diagrams. As to what should or shouldn't be attached and where these two plugs go, that aren't plugged in. this was got as a project. would run then die and battery would have to be jumped off to start again stator has now been replaced but any help with this wiring would be appreciated. 
×
×
  • Create New...