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    • By Sommer Wildes
      TLDR (too long didn't read) in blue for quick scanning
      Hey all! I'm new to the Side-by-side/UTV world. We own a smallish farm and decided to go with the 2021 Tracker 800LE Crew. We like the seating and the ride is smooth. However as a newbie I have some questions that maybe some of you longtime side-by-side/UTV owners can help with. We're still in the "break-in" period and it seems that after 30 min or less of driving the dash area gets super hot. You can feel the heat waves coming off the floorboard by your feet and my phone sitting in the little hole (where a radio might go) felt like I left it in the hot sun for too long. The glovebox was also way too hot. 
       
      So the question is, is this normal, or should I start checking engine coolant and filters? We literal have had it a day. I have read forums and looked up info and can't find anyone mentioning this issue. I just don't want to burn the thing up before we've even put it through it's paces ya know!
       
      Thanks for any help!
    • By Dan_Lockwood
      Sorry for the novel...
      I'm new to the forum and new to the side-by-side world. This is my first post.  A bit of background about me.  My dad was a mechanic all his life and he taught me what I was willing to learn at the time.  In the mid 60's we had a marina on a small lake in Mid-Michigan area that also service many surrounding lakes.  I was the mechanic.  We sold Polaris, Johnson and Arctic Cat snowmobiles along with Johnon and Mercury outboards, boats and pontoon boats.  We also sold Bridgestone motorcycles very early on.  While going to college I raced on the Ski Doo Michigan Distributor's race team out of Clare MI.  That was the first year for the factory race sleds, the Blizzards!  Anything with a motor and or wheels, I'm all ears and eyes.  I retired as a design engineer for the an O.E.M. making plastic production equipment.  Also served a stint as a Chevy/Pontiac service manager back in the 70's and 80's.  Oh, I retired the end of '19.  We had moved from MI to MO for my work and after 20 years there and retiring, we moved back to Mid-Michigan.  Nuff said I believe.  
      I just purchased a 2021 Coleman UT400 that has 320 hrs. and 1420 miles.
      I have multiple questions/issues.
      1.  The wet clutch appears to be toast.  It will rev up high and just barely move.  Got one ordered, complete kit.  Shouldn't be a big job.
      2.  This UT400 has a bad smoking habit and it think it's bad for its health...   It not only smokes on startup but continues to smoke until it's shut off.  I brought it home in my 22' enclosed car trailer yesterday and by the time we shoved and drove it into the trailer, the smoke was SOOOOO BAD, that we could hardly see out the back of the trailer.  Valve seals usually stop smoking after it starts up and all the residual oil has been burnt up.  Rings on the other hand seem to smoke the entire time the motor is running.  I've read that some of the Hisun motors have had suspect oil rings.  If this thing is smoking that badly from rings, I have no idea what the bore is like until it comes apart.  For the money, I'd rather have a complete cylinder/piston replacement kit and just be done with it.  Also put in new valve seals at the same time. 
      Thoughts?  I can't think of anything other than the two items mentioned above that could cause this.  It's not like in the old days with a PCV sticking and sucking oil up from the valve cover area and feeding it back into the intake to be burned.  I think that with the above swapping of parts, that "should" take care of my smoking motor...
      Just how is the oil level checked, dip stick screwed in or just stuck in the hole without screwing it in?
      I also cannot believe that in these days of engineering marvels, that a company, or many companies, would design a motor with a wet clutch using the same lubrication system as the motor.  Trans I can see, not much wear particles from the trans.  But with all the junk flying off the clutch shoes and then recirculating into the lubrication system, hopefully the filter will strain the big chunks out prior to being pressurized and forced back into the bearings and cylinder area.  Just doesn't make good engineering sense to me.
      3.  I see no issues setting the toe-in, but these little guys do not, from what I can find, any way to adjust camber or caster in anyway.  I'm guessing some of the larger more expensive side-by-sides have the lower A arms with threaded ends at the frame to turn to adjust the camber/caster.  I may elect to take my lower control arms off and cut the ends off and weld in adjustment bungs and rod ends to replace the stock units.  Am I missing something on the available suspension adjustments or lack there of???  Right now the right front tire is really tipped in at the top compared to the left side, also has a large amount of toe-out.  The toe-out will not be an issue to correct.
      4.  How do you change the clock from 24 hour to 12 hour?
      I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get deeper into my new toy.
      Also, it came with a 60" plow and I hope to use this to keep my quite large driveway clear this winter.  I do have the luxury to do multiple plows during a storm to keep the level of snow down a bit.  Yes, I know, I should have bought a larger rig, but with the issues this has, I got it at a very good price.
      Thoughts and suggestions appreciated.
      Thanks, Dan
    • By rob1845
      I lost my  Auxiliary lights and power steering and it is flashing area code F0014
    • By billycalexander
      Travis,
      Do you have any pics of your por15 treated rusty bed?
       
      Billy
       
      Also how do you post pics/what is your method
    • By EVSupport
      To reduce the amount of crud that gets thrown up under the seats / battery area of the Rangers, I do some mods when doing my UK Li ion conversions. The big one is the complete change of the battery trays, these are built as part of the new battery casings and fill the floor up to the back of the seat panel. But the most annoying feature is the big gap between the side panels and the arch liners, so I add a fill strip and a top cap. You can fit a rubber flap over the join, but I find these are more prone to getting ripped off by twigs etc. These are made from a plastic thats as virtually as indestructible as polycarbonate , but easier to heat and form. And lastly I now fit a flat panel between the antiroll bar mounts and the upright. This all helps to reduce the muck getting into the battery area. I would recommend that once a year you drop the belly pan and clean out all the stuff that goes up through the pan holes. If you drive over grass a lot then lift the floor / tunnel panel and take the mess out. The holes act like a cheese grater and you can get a lot of seeds etc crammed in that space. Now looking at a top panel to cover between the cab back and the underside of the bed, but the set up will be different between the earlier and later vehicles.



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