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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Graffy
Im new to the UTV world but not new to the fabrication world. Me and my friend have been focusing on designing and building a rallye-type setup with a custom chassis and a single seater. With suspension design at a good point, we want to start work on the chassis; however, there is one big hiccup in the way, and that is the powertrain. We've been going back and forth on this for quite some time now and realized that we cant find any great options. We want the engine to be behind the driver and mounted between the seat and the rear axle with a transaxle setup. We aren't going to need any power for the front wheels, as this is an RWD application (Toyota MR2 style setup). It also needs quite a small engine; I would love for it to be 100+ hp and possibly be turbocharged down the line, but power isn't a huge deal right now. Right now its a battle between a UTV engine X trans or a bike engine with a diff.
Although crotch rocket engines are super cool, they aren't built for high-torque applications, and a differential setup for one can range up to $6k, which is pretty ridiculous for our initial budget. (We are not going chain-driven as we have bad experience in that area.).
That's what leads us to UTV x Snowmobile drivetrains. I was initially surprised to find out how much power they have and realized it could be a great option with how they are designed for high torque applications. It is a difficult situation to find a good setup.
The transaxle needs to be either a manual or a sequential setup. And although there are some great engine options, with my limited knowledge in the UTV world, I have yet to find a transaxle that fits or works well with those engines.
So my questions are this: Does anyone know of a good combo or might be able to lead me down a direction? Could it be damaging to an AWD transmission if nothing is connected to the front output shaft and only the rear diff?
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By camojay
When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
Other info that may be useful:
1400 miles on it
Recently tightened the E brake
P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
20240817_133539_1.mp4
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By Homeowner A
Have a Coleman UTV 400 that cranks, runs, drives well until it gets warm and is put under load. Light throttle or full throttle it doesn't bog, but it will cut out mid throttle if you move the pedal quicker than it seems to like for example when you're getting ready to go up a hill, but if you immediately floor it, it will do just fine and not cut out. It's random if and when it's going to do it, but is consistent in that it happens only when hot/full operating temperature. I've replaced the injector twice, same with the spark plug and tried different heat ranges (NGK 7,8 and 8 iridium), replaced the fuel pump, adjusted the valves, checked air filter which is like new, changed the oil, replaced the fuel filter. No check engine light. I don't have a code reader for this. Initially I thought it might have a head or head gasket issue as when I got it, the oil was over full, very runny like water milky and it was smoking. I've changed the oil since then twice to clear and clean everything out, and it seems to be good. Coolant stays the same level and so does oil with no changes in consistency or need for adding more. Had I think 7-9 miles when I got it and now has about 77. What should I try or consider next?
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By CRV
I’m need a couple parts. Diff. Lock Actuator mainly. But I would like to find a donor that maybe has bad motor or something along those lines.
if anyone has or knows of anything please holler at me
thanks Randy
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