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Hisun 550 dies when put in gear

Owenhacker

By Owenhacker
in Hisun UTV SxS Forum

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Owenhacker Newbie

Owenhacker

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So I have disassembled and installed a new wet clutch all new bearings, regreased primary and once I got it all back together it starts and dies as soon as I put in gear.. took apart twice to make sure everything is correct. Need help

Edited by Owenhacker
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scott ryan Rookie

scott ryan

Posted
Posted
On 8/19/2023 at 7:54 PM, Owenhacker said:

So I have disassembled and installed a new wet clutch all new bearings, regreased primary and once I got it all back together it starts and dies as soon as I put in gear.. took apart twice to make sure everything is correct. Need help

IMG_9111.mov

Not sure about your machine, but I've seen that in a Honda 4wheeler due to one-way bearing being installed backwards.  Good luck!

Owenhacker Newbie

Owenhacker

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So I took apart and one way bearing was in the correct way but it was bad “Again” so I replaced and put back together and still did the same thing. I opened up the secondary clutch just a hair and works fine! I also didn’t have the guard on the primary which some say that would be the problem… supposedly it will not work correctly with guard off?

Ben1098 Enthusiast

Ben1098

Posted
Posted

Your video is the tell.......you have belt rotation at idle

Your belt is rotating AT IDLE with the primary sheaves.......that is a big NO NO.  The rear sheaves (transmission input) always pinch and fit tight to the belt sides.  The top of the belt is NORMALLY FLUSH to the outer rim of the rear or driven sheaves......your video looks like it is running "deeper" into the sheaves. The front sheaves should be open wide enough for the belt to flop (SIDE CLEARANCE at BELT EDGES) around when the motor is off and then sorta "drag the belt forward" BUT NOT PULL AND ROTATE until the engine Revs go up and thus tighten....as in close and pinch against the belt sides thus making the belt rotate.

Go thru the motion of starting to remove the belt again.  I assume you are using the rear hub squish screws to "open" thus get some belt slack.  Now, in Neutral, with the belt loose, see if it will slip on the drive pulley.  On other words, the belt will not "rub" on the sides meaning the front sheaves are opening wide enough for clearance at idle. 

Compress the rear pulley springs (open up the sheaves) and remove belt to test the action of the drive pulley.  Start engine, run at idle, then raise RPMs and watch the drive pulley sheaves collapse together....get narrower....with increased Rs.  Drop throttle and the sheaves should return to the wide open distance at idle.  I have seen where the cords from a blown/shredded belt get under the shaft bearing (the cylinder sleeve that you see between the drive sheaves) and restrict the required sheave distance travel.  If this is the case, the drive sheaves won't open enough and drag tension on the belt and "pull it deeper into the rear pulley"......which the video shows.  Like buying the wrong belt and it is not long enough.

Take the belt and lay it around only the rear pulley.  See if it will ride at the top of the sheave rim with the squish bolts removed.  If it does, your problem is with the front or a wrong belt.  The drive pulleys spring will REACT to the belt tension.  More tension pulls the belt in DEEPER...and that is how it works.....all controlled by the engine RPM and flyweights at the front drive pulley.  Speaking of flyweights and the slide bushings wear will also limit the travel of the drive sheave width.

Next, load the belt into the front pulley.  It should sit deep into the sheaves and have side clearance to where you can pull the belt freely back and forth.

BTW, older Polaris drive pulleys had a grooved inner bearing sleeve and the OEM belt had matching grooves in the inside.  Some aftermarket belts had the grooves BUT the number and spacing was off....that small amount of "extra material" would cause the belt to drag and pull at idle.....let off brake and away it goes.  Bottom line, it is a juggling act for the whole setup to work.

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