Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

So I have disassembled and installed a new wet clutch all new bearings, regreased primary and once I got it all back together it starts and dies as soon as I put in gear.. took apart twice to make sure everything is correct. Need help

Edited by Owenhacker
Added video
Posted
On 8/19/2023 at 7:54 PM, Owenhacker said:

So I have disassembled and installed a new wet clutch all new bearings, regreased primary and once I got it all back together it starts and dies as soon as I put in gear.. took apart twice to make sure everything is correct. Need help

IMG_9111.mov

Not sure about your machine, but I've seen that in a Honda 4wheeler due to one-way bearing being installed backwards.  Good luck!

Posted

So I took apart and one way bearing was in the correct way but it was bad “Again” so I replaced and put back together and still did the same thing. I opened up the secondary clutch just a hair and works fine! I also didn’t have the guard on the primary which some say that would be the problem… supposedly it will not work correctly with guard off?

Posted

Your video is the tell.......you have belt rotation at idle

Your belt is rotating AT IDLE with the primary sheaves.......that is a big NO NO.  The rear sheaves (transmission input) always pinch and fit tight to the belt sides.  The top of the belt is NORMALLY FLUSH to the outer rim of the rear or driven sheaves......your video looks like it is running "deeper" into the sheaves. The front sheaves should be open wide enough for the belt to flop (SIDE CLEARANCE at BELT EDGES) around when the motor is off and then sorta "drag the belt forward" BUT NOT PULL AND ROTATE until the engine Revs go up and thus tighten....as in close and pinch against the belt sides thus making the belt rotate.

Go thru the motion of starting to remove the belt again.  I assume you are using the rear hub squish screws to "open" thus get some belt slack.  Now, in Neutral, with the belt loose, see if it will slip on the drive pulley.  On other words, the belt will not "rub" on the sides meaning the front sheaves are opening wide enough for clearance at idle. 

Compress the rear pulley springs (open up the sheaves) and remove belt to test the action of the drive pulley.  Start engine, run at idle, then raise RPMs and watch the drive pulley sheaves collapse together....get narrower....with increased Rs.  Drop throttle and the sheaves should return to the wide open distance at idle.  I have seen where the cords from a blown/shredded belt get under the shaft bearing (the cylinder sleeve that you see between the drive sheaves) and restrict the required sheave distance travel.  If this is the case, the drive sheaves won't open enough and drag tension on the belt and "pull it deeper into the rear pulley"......which the video shows.  Like buying the wrong belt and it is not long enough.

Take the belt and lay it around only the rear pulley.  See if it will ride at the top of the sheave rim with the squish bolts removed.  If it does, your problem is with the front or a wrong belt.  The drive pulleys spring will REACT to the belt tension.  More tension pulls the belt in DEEPER...and that is how it works.....all controlled by the engine RPM and flyweights at the front drive pulley.  Speaking of flyweights and the slide bushings wear will also limit the travel of the drive sheave width.

Next, load the belt into the front pulley.  It should sit deep into the sheaves and have side clearance to where you can pull the belt freely back and forth.

BTW, older Polaris drive pulleys had a grooved inner bearing sleeve and the OEM belt had matching grooves in the inside.  Some aftermarket belts had the grooves BUT the number and spacing was off....that small amount of "extra material" would cause the belt to drag and pull at idle.....let off brake and away it goes.  Bottom line, it is a juggling act for the whole setup to work.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By SpaceGhost
      As with any forum you join, there is a requirement for an obligatory introduction... and that seems fair. How else do you get that first post in there without jumping in with some stupid question right out of nowhere?

      Hi. I'm Space Ghost. Well, not really, but that was my call sign on my last deployment before an IED made me non-deployable, and I an now retired/disabled, and living on my wonderful VA disability. I did almost 28 years in total between the Army, Army Reserve, and National Guard. 1 deployment with the Reserve (Desert Storm) and 3 with the Guard (1 pre, and 2 post 9/11)

      Married (going on 30 years) one of each. (both out of the nest)
       
      Just picked up my first side by side a couple days ago. A 2020 Can-Am Defender HD10 DPS 6x6. 

       
      It's in pretty good shape, but as you can probably tell, it's sitting a bit high. Former owner put a lifting collar on the shocks. 

       
      The good = almost 17" of ground clearance. (30" tires) 
      The bad = incredibly steep driveline angles, and a pretty stiff ride. 
       
      They will be coming off. 
       
      Other than that... clean as a pin and appears very well maintained. 
       
      Looking forward to seeing what this forum can bring, and hoping I can bring something in return. 
    • By camojay
      When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
      Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
      Other info that may be useful:
      1400 miles on it
      Recently tightened the E brake
      P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
      20240817_133539_1.mp4    
    • By CRV
      I’m need a couple parts. Diff. Lock Actuator mainly. But I would like to find a donor that maybe has bad motor or something along those lines. 
      if anyone has or knows of anything please holler at me 
      thanks Randy 
    • By CRV
      Howdy new member here . My hobby's Rabbit dogs , gamefowl . I'm retired from my real job but I stay busy with the hounds and gamefowl . So to help around the farm I ran across an old 2007 CC Big Country 4x2 to haul feed , water , sprayer and my sorry a$$ .It is in pretty good shape , 781 hrs. good plastic , tires, ect. . But as anything outside and 18 years old it needs seats ! The thing I have found wrong mechically the Diff. Lock Acturtor is broken where it mounts to the bracket ( partly why Im here ) . Hoping someone here can help  ! Just my wish list but Id like to find a roll cage and a composit/plastic top for it Im thinking I'll need a donor to salvage these things from ( again partly why Im here ) .Is there another brand that uses this same actuator? If anyone reads this and has or knows of any of threse parts PLEASE HOLLER !! 
      Again Howdy brothers & sisters

    • By GaryC
      Unfortunately my rear Diff housing cracked on my 2013 and I need to replace it or find a good used complete differential.  I think the same one was used from 2013-2016?  Any help or referrals appreciated.  Thanks, Gary  (949)370-2575 (in UT)
×
×
  • Create New...