2021 Kawasaki Mule 4010 lift kit and bigger wheels/tires
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By camojay
When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
Other info that may be useful:
1400 miles on it
Recently tightened the E brake
P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
20240817_133539_1.mp4
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By downseast
Hi everyone
Recently purchased a 2020 T-Boss 410 in what appears to be good condition
First time with this machine – I also have a diesel Kawasaki Mule which so far seems a better machine
It didn’t start and idle well particularly from cold when I got it and sudden take off ( now solved with new clutch parts ) was all or nothing !
I have replaced the idle valve, throttle position sensor, had the injector professionally checked ( ok) and also the pressure sensor this is a fuel injection engine, also plug and lead etc!
It still doesn’t run well and when starting I have to hold revs for a while as it wont idle but stall, thereafter its better and I have rebooted the ecu which has improved it
When I go to start it clicks as if there is a hydraulic lock and wont return after two or three attempts it then does turn over and start bit I need to give it a bit of throttle to start – is this normal ?
Is there adjustment for the air idle valve ?
The engine seems rough and with vibration compared to other engines I have been used to but some say this is normal?
I haven’t changed the Lambda sensor yet, anyone know how much difference this might make ( I have a new Bosch universal to fit )
Any advice very much appreciated, thanks
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By Bloodhound
Any info on the duribility and reliability of these don't know the size
And also 2006 rzr duribility and reliability 800cc
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By CRV
I’m need a couple parts. Diff. Lock Actuator mainly. But I would like to find a donor that maybe has bad motor or something along those lines.
if anyone has or knows of anything please holler at me
thanks Randy
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