Quantcast
Jump to content


Charging issue with a Sector E1


Go to solution Solved by Cougsfan,

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yesterday I took my E1 out and everything was fine.  I plugged it in when I got back like I normally do.  When I went to take it out I noticed the battery had not charged overnight.  I reconnected the charger and watched its behavior.  When first plugged in the yellow light on the charge indicator panel is on for a couple of seconds, then it starts to flash the green charge light as usual.  After about a second I hear a relay click and the green light goes out.  About 2 seconds it starts the charge light flashing, then quits like before.  It does this cycle 4 times and then the yellow light starts blinking.  There is no code displayed on the main instrument panel.  Any help would be appreciated.  My dealer said to call Hisun, they've never worked on one.  Hisun told me to read my owners manual.  I found no reference to the charge indicator panel in the manual.

Posted

Thanks for the reply and the pdf file.  I found something similar on the Delta-Q website.  Since I posted originally, I have done a good bit of research on the charger.  I discovered the status display on the charger.  The charge indicator green light is not on.  The only light is the blue AC power light connected indicator.  I have not had the chance to try to read the error code display.  When I was looking at it, there was no characters being displayed.  How to you trigger the display to output the error code?  Should it continuously cycle through the code when plugged in, or dose it just do it once when the AC power is first connected?

Posted

Is there a code displayed on the charger itself? If you look in over the front wheel from the driver's side, you can see the charger's own display cycling. It should show up an error code there. It's a Delta-Q ICL series charger, if memory serves (and they've not changed it since mine was built).

Posted

Not sure what happened there! Didn't mean to repost my earlier reply.

 

I'm no expert on the charger, but as far as I know, the two digit readout lights up when it is on, either with a status or a rolling error code. If it's not doing either, then there's something else wrong. I read a thread a while back about road crud getting into the power connector, so it might be that or a corroded connection. You need to be very careful and isolate the battery pack before poking around though. UK spec E1s have a big red circuit breaker button to turn everything off, which I don't think US spec ones do. 

Posted

Appreciate whatever light you can shine on the issue.  I am an experienced electronics technician so I know where and how to be safe.  I just wish I could find a wiring diagram for the E1 so I could troubleshoot it easier.  I probably could even repair the charger itself if a schematic was available for it.  Hopefully others will weigh in here with more info.  Any little tidbit could be a clue down the right path.

Posted

So after studying the schematic, I started looking for the 30A fuse that goes from the charger to the batteries.  I found it mounted to one of the batteries.  The fuse holder had actually melted.  I replaced the fuse and holder and the charger started right up.  I kept an eye on temperature of the new holder and the wires running to it.  They get quite warm, but not enough to melt the new holder at this point.  I am worried what made it so hot in the first place and am concerned it will happen again.  We'll just have to wait and see.

  • Like 1
Posted

We change the fuses (Also a lot of E1s dont actually have a fuse on the charger) on the Hisun and the Ranger for a maxi bladed fuse    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143778366533  like these , not for high value fuses, but as they have large blades the connection is much better and the heat generated is virtually none. The ranger is the worst, they use the mini automotive fuses, The only issue is connecting them into your loom. So make the terminal to the contactor the longest leg of the fuse holder with an 8mm crimped terminal, and the other end ideally crimped to the original loom section. Any join should ideally have one or more layers of heat shrink sleeve.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Rainman
      I want to put a charger/maintainer for my Coleman UT400 for the winter and need to know if it uses a 6v or 12v battery.
      One search online showed a 6v, but another stated 12v..
      I can look at the battery, but after taking the seat out you cannot see the top of the battery without also removing the top plate under the seat and at 8 degrees outside, I'd rather not be out there too long.
      Can anyone verify what volt (6 or 12) the batter is?
      Thanks in advance ...
    • By Kingfish
      I have done a LiPo4 battery upgrade on my E1.  I have reprogrammed the charge profile to #386.  With the onboard BMS the controller cuts off all charge from the IC1200 when the battery reaches 100% to prevent overcharge.  When this happens the charger begins flashing the yellow light and displays the error code 013 which is telling me the battery is no longer accepting a charge input which is as it should be.  I hear a relay switching in and out every few seconds as the charger continues to try to reach the shutoff charge profile voltage.  My question is will it cause any harm to the IC1200 to stay in this state for hours or maybe even days if I don't get out to unplug it?  I used to leave the E1 plugged in all the time with the old Discover batteries.
    • By Homeowner A
      Picked up an essentially new 2022 UT400 with 9 miles on it.  Decided to change the oil because it's probably never been done.  Pulled the dipstick and noticed it was overfull then went and pulled the drain plug and took off the filter and it was like brown water running out.  What should I start checking?
    • By Will Sutton
      I've got a 2023 UT400 (bought from tractor supply) and I've been beating my head against a wall with it.
      It will start and idle perfectly. The second I touch the throttle it sputters and dies.
      I've checked that the fuel pump is working  (it is).
      I've replaced the injector, throttle position sensor, O2 sensor, and intake air sensor. All with no change.
       
      I've just taken a look a the schematic, and there is a crank position sensor as well.

      Could this be the source of my troubles? If so, where is this thing located? I can't seem to find it on any drawings from the parts suppliers.
    • eManualonline.com Save 30% OFF Sitewide, Use code: XMAS30
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...