Quantcast
Jump to content


Snow Plow on 2015 Kawasaki Teryx 800LE


JFC

Recommended Posts

2 weeks ago I got a 72 inch Denali for my 2011 Tyrex. The plow mount was supposed to mount to the BOTTOM of the frame plate on the unit by hanging it from 2 grade 5 bolts that are also used to mount the winch. Aside from the fact that this causes the bolts securing the rear of the plow to be way too short, this mounting creates a shear point for the front bolts. You are asking the front bolts to absorb the force every time you push into that snow bank. I’m a retired engineer who knows about force transfer. This is a ludicrous way to attach the plow mount to the frame. I got hold of Motoalliance, the outfit I bought it from, and was told that yes this is how to mount it. I doubt the kid I spoke to was a technical representative but was probably a parts guy. If I can get hold of Denali, I’ll post an update. I was quite satisfied with the quality of the product itself but the installation instructions were very poor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Kingfish
      The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle.  It never rode great, but now I feel every  crack in the road.  I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff.  I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order.  Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate?  I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
    • By Ridge Runner
      Hi
      i have a 2019 Coleman 550 Outfitter.  The tail gate has a pin on each side, that snaps into latch blocks that are mounted on the inside of the tail gate opening.  There are two M6x16 pan head screws(bolts?) that hold the latch blocks in place.  The screws enter from inside the bed body, and I can’t figure out how to access them.  This is right by the tail light assemblies.  I tried taking a pan head screw out of the fender lip, but found out there is not a nut firmly inplace, to hold the pan head screw in.  Bottom line I’m making it worse.  
      coleman was no help.  If I could figure out how they attached the tail light, then maybe I could put the latch screws in through the tail light hole.  Any ideas?
       
      thanks
      Ridgerunner
    • By Woody77
      UTV MASSIMOREPLACED STATOR WANT start replaced rectifier still want start stator ohms out 5 ohms each leg what could be wrong at this point 
    • By REDfletching
      Spent today at a Honda dealership looking at their 520 side by side, then on the way home past our Lowes noticed they had several new UTVs on site, so we U-turned and ducked in there. We were impressed that all that came for $9,999 metal whole length skid plate, nice sized bed, roof, windshield, side mirrors, winch, upgrade looking tires… all of which would have added thousands of dollars to an already expensive Honda 520. Now Honda does have a great reputation from my trusted UTV experienced buddy, so it has that going for it.
×
×
  • Create New...