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By Will Sutton
I've got a 2023 UT400 (bought from tractor supply) and I've been beating my head against a wall with it.
It will start and idle perfectly. The second I touch the throttle it sputters and dies.
I've checked that the fuel pump is working (it is).
I've replaced the injector, throttle position sensor, O2 sensor, and intake air sensor. All with no change.
I've just taken a look a the schematic, and there is a crank position sensor as well.
Could this be the source of my troubles? If so, where is this thing located? I can't seem to find it on any drawings from the parts suppliers.
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By Greg Kilgore
Last year bought a small universal coolant style cab heater. Well I installed it today. Thanks to another member, RangeRider45, and his install
That told in his post the size fitting he used. I got the same fittings plus a few others. And all went kinda smooth. Took a few minutes to get air purged from coolant system. Should have parked on hill with front up in the air. But would have had a hard time working on it.
I had a variable power switch connected to an overhead cab fan. Never really used the fan that much. And I have to remove the fan to put on my cab enclosure anyway. So I repurposed the switch to supply power for the heater. The heater has 2 12-volt DC computer fans that are rated for 1.8 amps each. So it's not going to be a big drain on the weak charging system. And with the switch I've got great control over the speed of the fans.
If anyone is interested the radiator hoses are 7/8 inch. I reworked the temperature sending unit (moved it closer to radiator) to make room for all the extra plumbing I did to get the heater to work the way I wanted.
Plumbing parts list.
10-15 worm water clamps. 3/4 to 1 1/4 inch size.
2 1" x 3/4" x 1" PEX Tee
1 3/4" PEX ball valve
1 1" PEX ball valve
5/8" heater hose. I got 6' and probably have 4' left over.
I used the radiator house I cut out to use as splices between the PEX fittings. The PEX fittings are not true to their dimensions that are stated on the package. So they fit the 5/8" and 7/8" very nicely.
They way I have it plumbed is from radiation out side. A tee, then the 1" ball valve, then a Tee. Coming off the Tees are the hoses going to the heater core. There is a 3/4" ball valve on one of the Tees. The ball valves are used to bypass the heater core in the summer. Or direct the hot coolant through the heater core in winter. The temperature sending unit tells me how hot the coolant is. And if anything is getting too hot. The dash also has an idiot light that comes on if the head gets too hot. But doesn't do anything if the radiator gets too hot. There is a temp sensor on the radiator that controls the electrical fan. But if the coolant isn't circulating. That switch never sends a signal to turn on the fan. But enough talking/rambling. Everyone wants to see pics. The only thing I need to change is the orientation of the handle on the 1" ball valve. I have 2" or more clearance between the handle and the tire when cut hard right. But I still don't like it. And instead of taking the valve out and rotating 180°. I'm just going to take the nut off and rotate the handle 180°. Think I need to make a locking mechanism to lock the handles in place so they don't vibrate closed when the machine is moving.
The temperature sending unit and housing. Size 22 mm. Aluminum from Amazon.
Upper Tee the lower Tee is identical. Can also see the handle of the 3/4" ball valve on the 5/8" hose going to the heater.
The 1" ball valve. Goes between the 2 Tees
Wide view of the plumbing.
The heater installed in the sxs. The 3 black hoses are just hanging there. Zip ties to the heater but not attached to any thing. Will probably just direct 2 toward the wife's feet. And 1 toward mine. Or what ever is need as the heat is needed on rides. The black hose in passenger floorboard is some 1" hose that is not needed. Don't know what I'll do with it.
I think if I was going to do it again. I'd put some Indian Head gasket dressing or silicone on the 1" side of the PEX fittings. And I may still do that. But I really hate the ideal of introducing air back in the coolant system.
Any questions just ask. It may take a while to answer. But I'll try.
Ya be good and stay warm over the next few months
Kilgore.
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By amiracle40995
I’m getting a 700-7 every startup. I’m having to change the plug every 100 miles on 93 octane gas. I got a lower numbered plug that is supposed to burn hotter. I’m wondering why that comes up every time I start it and if it’s related? I included a picture of the code or whatever it is. I haven’t seen the code in the owners manual or the hisun shop manual I have.
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By fishhouse3
FOR SALE: 2021 CFMOTO ZForce 800 Trail with many extras and full warranty until 2027. Only 625 miles and 50 hours of use.
In great condition, has a clean title and one adult owner. Has had all scheduled regular maintenance and has not been abused. Only used about six times on weekend trips to Hatfield-McCoy trails in WV.
Under full CFMOTO Care bumper-to-bumper extended warranty until 8/2027 (paid $1,600). Full service and tune up just completed with new clutch, drive shaft, belt, rollers, etc (paid $1500). Plus it comes with over $3,500 in upgrades and accessories! Way too many included items to list here (see last pics for full details).
This machine is ready to go and needs nothing - just hop in and hit the trails! I have over $20k invested in this machine. Priced VERY fair to sell quick at less than half that!!!
$9,999 WITHOUT warranty -OR- $10,999 WITH full extended warranty until 8/2027.
Located in Chesterfield, VA 23832. Message me for more pics and info!
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