Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi, 

I have a Coleman UT400 that is a couple years old (2021), that won't seem to hold a charge. We have replaced the battery several times, and the unit will startup and run for a period of time, then die out. When I attempt to restart, it acts as if the battery is weak. Install a new battery, and it repeats the cycle. 

Do the magnetos go bad on these things? If so, how hard are they to get to and change?
 

Thanks!

Kyle 

Posted

It might not be a charging issue. It could be drain on the battery. Put a volt meter on the battery while it's running, if you are getting 13.5V or higher then the battery is being charged. If you are getting less than that i.e. the battery reads 12.5v then you do have a charging problem. I just found a .450ma drain on my axis 700 that is coming from the ECU and it drains my battery in a very short time period. If the battery is charging you'll need a volt meter capable of reading amps. Search youtube for parasitic drain on a battery and there's clear instructions how to find it. 

Posted

Hey,

We have a 2008 Hisun 700 and it had a similar problem. Would die at the worst times, idled rough, and wouldn't restart. Turned out to be the rectifier/charging unit. Got the part on amazon I believe. Diagnosed it using a pdf from RMSTATOR, they have excellent diagnostic breakdown that really only requires a multimeter. https://rmstator.com/pub/media/pages/static-pages/tests-diagnostic/pdf/electricals-gremlins-20170223-EN.pdf

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Have you solved this problem, I seam to be having the same issue.  Lucas do you have a link to the part that you purchase that you could share. 

Posted

I beleive I figure out the issues was that the cable that supposed to plugged into that, was not.  It was just hanging down.  Never was plugged in from the manufacture.  

Posted
On 12/11/2023 at 3:54 PM, Lucas Lenartowicz said:

Hey,

We have a 2008 Hisun 700 and it had a similar problem. Would die at the worst times, idled rough, and wouldn't restart. Turned out to be the rectifier/charging unit. Got the part on amazon I believe. Diagnosed it using a pdf from RMSTATOR, they have excellent diagnostic breakdown that really only requires a multimeter. https://rmstator.com/pub/media/pages/static-pages/tests-diagnostic/pdf/electricals-gremlins-20170223-EN.pdf

I went to the rmstator website to see what other charts they might have, but when choosing the rig, they do not show a Hisun or Coleman. What did you choose, or doesn't it matter? I've noticed this on other websites too, where as they never list Hisun or Coleman as a choice.

Posted

The one I used and linked above is a generic chart. Unfortunately there is very little information on Hisun... and I guess Coleman machines... Maybe becuase Hisun is a knockoff of the Yamaha Rhino, at least the older Hisuns. For ours I try to get aftermarket Yamaha Rhino parts when I can as usually they are cheaper and more accessible. But I don't think it works that way for the new machines as they aren't really copies anymore... unless they are and I don't know.

Luke 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Homeowner A
      I have a Coleman UTV 400 and looking for something to store it in.  Preferably something vinyl or plastic with its own base that can stand alone outside and house the UTV.  I think the dimensions of the UT400 are around 106" long 52" wide and 74" tall. 
      What should I consider that won't break the bank?    
    • By Howard Elmore
      I have owned mine for a couple years now but newer took off road.  How well does it do trail riding m?
    • By Will Sutton
      I've got a 2023 UT400 (bought from tractor supply) and I've been beating my head against a wall with it.
      It will start and idle perfectly. The second I touch the throttle it sputters and dies.
      I've checked that the fuel pump is working  (it is).
      I've replaced the injector, throttle position sensor, O2 sensor, and intake air sensor. All with no change.
       
      I've just taken a look a the schematic, and there is a crank position sensor as well.

      Could this be the source of my troubles? If so, where is this thing located? I can't seem to find it on any drawings from the parts suppliers.
    • By Greg Kilgore
      Last year bought a small universal coolant style cab heater. Well I installed it today. Thanks to another member, RangeRider45, and his install
       
      That told in his post the size fitting he used. I got the same fittings plus a few others. And all went kinda smooth. Took a few minutes to get air purged from coolant system. Should have parked on hill with front up in the air. But would have had a hard time working on it.
      I had a variable power switch connected to an overhead cab fan. Never really used the fan that much. And I have to remove the fan to put on my cab enclosure anyway. So I repurposed the switch to supply power for the heater. The heater has 2 12-volt DC computer fans that are rated for 1.8 amps each. So it's not going to be a big drain on the weak charging system. And with the switch I've got great control over the speed of the fans.
      If anyone is interested the radiator hoses are 7/8 inch. I reworked the temperature sending unit (moved it closer to radiator) to make room for all the extra plumbing I did to get the heater to work the way I wanted. 
      Plumbing parts list.
      10-15 worm water clamps. 3/4 to 1 1/4 inch size.
      2 1" x 3/4" x 1" PEX Tee
      1 3/4" PEX ball valve
      1 1" PEX ball valve
      5/8" heater hose. I got 6' and probably have 4' left over.
      I used the radiator house I cut out to use as splices between the PEX fittings. The PEX fittings are not true to their dimensions that are stated on the package. So they fit the 5/8" and 7/8" very nicely.
      They way I have it plumbed is from radiation out side. A tee, then the 1" ball valve, then a Tee. Coming off the Tees are the hoses going to the heater core. There is a 3/4" ball valve on one of the Tees. The ball valves are used to bypass the heater core in the summer. Or direct the hot coolant through the heater core in winter. The temperature sending unit tells me how hot the coolant is. And if anything is getting too hot. The dash also has an idiot light that comes on if the head gets too hot. But doesn't do anything if the radiator gets too hot. There is a temp sensor on the radiator that controls the electrical fan. But if the coolant isn't circulating. That switch never sends a signal to turn on the fan. But enough talking/rambling. Everyone wants to see pics. The only thing I need to change is the orientation of the handle on the 1" ball valve. I have 2" or more clearance between the handle and the tire when cut hard right. But I still don't like it. And instead of taking the valve out and rotating 180°. I'm just going to take the nut off and rotate the handle 180°. Think I need to make a locking mechanism to lock the handles in place so they don't vibrate closed when the machine is moving.
      The temperature sending unit and housing. Size 22 mm. Aluminum from Amazon.

      Upper Tee the lower Tee is identical. Can also see the handle of the 3/4" ball valve on the 5/8" hose going to the heater.

      The 1" ball valve. Goes between the 2 Tees

      Wide view of the plumbing.

      The heater installed in the sxs. The 3 black hoses are just hanging there. Zip ties to the heater but not attached to any thing. Will probably just direct 2 toward the wife's feet. And 1 toward mine. Or what ever is need as the heat is needed on rides. The black hose in passenger floorboard is some 1" hose that is not needed. Don't know what I'll do with it.

       
      I think if I was going to do it again. I'd put some Indian Head gasket dressing or silicone on the 1" side of the PEX fittings. And I may still do that. But I really hate the ideal of introducing air back in the coolant system.
       
      Any questions just ask. It may take a while to answer. But I'll try.
      Ya be good and stay warm over the next few months 
       
      Kilgore.
    • By dman66
      My buddy has a ut400 that the forward gear keeps popping out of gear. She only has like 400 miles on the odometer .the shift cable has been adjusted and the shift lever has been updated / modified. All other gears are good. Is there an internal detent cam or something that wears out or shift fork that can be replaced ? Or is there some other magic that I can perform ? Looks like the engine needs to be split.
×
×
  • Create New...