2022 Hisun Sector 550 eps. Power steering not working
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By Gorj
I am going to replace the batteries in my E1. I am not interested in the high cost Lithium or the expensive 6 volt dry batteries. I am considering four 12 volt deep charge marine batteries. I have a source for 810 amp units for about $100 each. I have no worries about reprograming the charger because it went out a few years ago and I replaced it with generic golf cart charger. When I decide to do this, I'll keep you posted on the results.
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By Bobbers
My wife accidentally ran the Axis 500 into a fence and tore the front end up (broke her arm too). Just wondering where the best place to get front end parts? I know she busted the knuckle but haven’t jacked it up yet. Thanks guys for any help!
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By Homeowner A
Is there a code reader available for the Coleman UTV 400? I tried using the HUD ECU Hacker software and cables/adapters but no luck OBD to delphi 6 pin and KKL VAG as well as ELM327. Will not connect. I was able to get it to connect randomly a couple of times, but haven't been able to since. I was able to clear and read the codes briefly. I'm aware of the Tiny Scan 301 but it doesn't seem to be readily available. There's a few out there but they are expensive.
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By Marie
hello, i need help figuring out where all these wires go on this battery. I can't seem to find any pictures diagrams. As to what should or shouldn't be attached and where these two plugs go, that aren't plugged in. this was got as a project. would run then die and battery would have to be jumped off to start again stator has now been replaced but any help with this wiring would be appreciated.
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By Prepper
I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500. Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire. It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference). It has compression. I bought it not running, and no other information was available. It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours. It looks to be in very good shape. Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far. My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time. My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct? In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible. In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another). However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line. Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust. I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves.
Any thoughts ? Does this appear to be in proper valve time ? Have I missed anything simple ? Thanks in advance for your input.
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