Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

  • 4 years later...
Posted

Ok, it's awhile. New update, installed two large dry cell batteries under the seat. One for the stereo and the other is the engine battery. Installed a relay between then so when the engine is running both batteries charge. I also replaced the stock starter with one from the xtx 1000. Much better torque.

  • 6 years later...
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Yes, you must have a battery isolator so that one battery, if it develops an internal short or a bad cell, it won't draw down the only good battery you have left.  If I were to add a 2nd battery (which I am considering), it would be a deep cycle battery specifically for the winch.  Buy a commercial one rated for your expected load.  Easier to install.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Rainman
      I want to put a charger/maintainer for my Coleman UT400 for the winter and need to know if it uses a 6v or 12v battery.
      One search online showed a 6v, but another stated 12v..
      I can look at the battery, but after taking the seat out you cannot see the top of the battery without also removing the top plate under the seat and at 8 degrees outside, I'd rather not be out there too long.
      Can anyone verify what volt (6 or 12) the batter is?
      Thanks in advance ...
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By hetovi
      Hello everyone.
      I recently bought a Can-Am Ryker and I'm looking to customize it with some accessories. I’ve seen a lot of options out there but wanted to get some recommendations from fellow riders.
      What are the must-have accessories for comfort, style, or performance?
      Specifically, I'm considering a windshield and better footpegs—are these worth the investment?
      Also, any thoughts on storage solutions like saddlebags or rear cases?
      Would love to hear your personal experiences with any mods you’ve done.
    • By John Gubancsik
      I'm having trouble finding a replacement battery for my UT400.  Has anyone bought one and where did you get it?  Thanks.
    • eManualonline.com Save 30% OFF Sitewide, Use code: XMAS30
    • By LarryLarryQuiteRepairy
      Hello,
      Background: Bought a used 2012 700, added 2 small LED lights, wiring for a sprayer and changed front CV axles. 
      Had no electrical issues until recently. The old battery stopped charging so we got a new one, Rhino still wouldn't charge it.
      -Started next day, drove 15-20min, then out of nowhere the check engine light came on and temp too. 4WD started to automatically engage and disengage repeatedly. Charging display started jumping all around between 11 to 13 to 15v.
      -Relays, fuses, and battery connections seemed good.
      -Continuity on rectifier would jump btwn OL and 00.0
      -Rectifier wires from stator all read 20-21v at idle
      -Rectifier diode test had 1 bad reading. So, I replaced it with a new one (but still using original plugs) 
      Started it up, still shows no change (12.1v idle, 12.8 with some RPM)
      Also, I feel like now I maybe also smell burning plastic?
      Does anyone have experience with this problem or have a recommendation of where to go next?
×
×
  • Create New...