Quantcast
Jump to content


Second Battery

Blaze379

By Blaze379
in Arctic Cat UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 4 years later...
Blaze379 Contributor

Blaze379

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok, it's awhile. New update, installed two large dry cell batteries under the seat. One for the stereo and the other is the engine battery. Installed a relay between then so when the engine is running both batteries charge. I also replaced the stock starter with one from the xtx 1000. Much better torque.

  • 6 years later...
  • 2 months later...
Dan B Community Regular

Dan B

Posted
Posted

Yes, you must have a battery isolator so that one battery, if it develops an internal short or a bad cell, it won't draw down the only good battery you have left.  If I were to add a 2nd battery (which I am considering), it would be a deep cycle battery specifically for the winch.  Buy a commercial one rated for your expected load.  Easier to install.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • didgeridoo
      Hisun Sector e1 Battery replacement: any tips?
      By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • hetovi
      Can-Am Ryker Accessories Question
      By hetovi
      Hello everyone.
      I recently bought a Can-Am Ryker and I'm looking to customize it with some accessories. I’ve seen a lot of options out there but wanted to get some recommendations from fellow riders.
      What are the must-have accessories for comfort, style, or performance?
      Specifically, I'm considering a windshield and better footpegs—are these worth the investment?
      Also, any thoughts on storage solutions like saddlebags or rear cases?
      Would love to hear your personal experiences with any mods you’ve done.
    • John Gubancsik
      2020 Hisun UT400 Battery
      By John Gubancsik
      I'm having trouble finding a replacement battery for my UT400.  Has anyone bought one and where did you get it?  Thanks.
    • LarryLarryQuiteRepairy
      YAMAHA RHINO 700 - BATTERY WON'T CHARGE
      By LarryLarryQuiteRepairy
      Hello,
      Background: Bought a used 2012 700, added 2 small LED lights, wiring for a sprayer and changed front CV axles. 
      Had no electrical issues until recently. The old battery stopped charging so we got a new one, Rhino still wouldn't charge it.
      -Started next day, drove 15-20min, then out of nowhere the check engine light came on and temp too. 4WD started to automatically engage and disengage repeatedly. Charging display started jumping all around between 11 to 13 to 15v.
      -Relays, fuses, and battery connections seemed good.
      -Continuity on rectifier would jump btwn OL and 00.0
      -Rectifier wires from stator all read 20-21v at idle
      -Rectifier diode test had 1 bad reading. So, I replaced it with a new one (but still using original plugs) 
      Started it up, still shows no change (12.1v idle, 12.8 with some RPM)
      Also, I feel like now I maybe also smell burning plastic?
      Does anyone have experience with this problem or have a recommendation of where to go next?
    • FGT
      How to wire a C/B into a dual battery set up
      By FGT
      QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.

      EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.


UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...