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By Hunterman22
2021 Hisun Axis 500 UTV (From Lowes)
Will NOT START
MY apologies if this is to much info just wanted to give yal the most information possible for help.
I'm a so called diyer. An Electrician by trade 21yrs. I got my S×S from my last job. The contractor purchased this S×S for this specific job brand new, from Lowes. They used it for hauling materials, tools, & a little bit of anything you can think of on an Industrial type job site.
I remember getting on the SxS one time & pushed the gas petal all the way to the floor & SxS had very little power.
So anyway ,when the job finished up back mid July this year (7/2024) , I asked the contractor what they was going to do with it. I was told to take it. Otherwise it would go to the contractors yard (storage yard) & most likely rust away.
Took it home washed it , it had a heavy coat of dust on it & in it dust was every where. My helper & I had to push it on the trailer to get it home. After washing it throughly I let it sit & dry out for a good day and half, maybe 2 days. Before trying to start it. NO START. Will turn over & try to start but thats it.
So here's what I've purchased & installed. New Air Filter, new spark plug, new air idle control valve (AICV), new throttle position sensor, new throttle body, new oxygen sensor, new digital dash speedometer/fuel gauge/clock.
Also drained the old oil & gas & replaced with new oil & 93oct. gas. I should probably mention that I've changed the AICV twice. The 1st time I changed the AICV I was able to get the SxS started & let idle for at least 10-15min. Drove out of the garage, with very little power, turned it around & barely got it back in the garage.That was the one & only time I've been able to start the SxS. I've also cleaned the Throttle Body and & intake with TB cleaner. So after that the AICV was making weird noise so I pulled it out & tried cleaning it, pretty sure I messed it up. So I purchased a Throttle Body that came with new AICV & TPS. Still NO START. I've checked the fuel pump & the fuel injector. I took the injector off still hooked up to wiring & turned the key over, the injector sprayed a lot of gas out kinda the size of a volleyball. I've also checked the clearance gap on the intake & exhaust valve. But today 11/2/2024 I'm going recheck spark plug gap & the valve gaps. And alot of other checking. Would the driver side seat belt have anything to do with it not starting?? I know the driver side seat belt has to be in gauged for full throttle "going fast". Thing is the drv. side seat belt will latch but feels like might be messed up inside of it. Tired opening it up but to no avail. I've never had a S×S or 4wheeler so I was really excited when I got the S×S,not so much anymore. I work on & fix my own vehicles usually no problems. But this SxS is kicking my ass.
So if possible & someone could help me with some ideas or tell me what Im doing wrong or did wrong, I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you for reading thus far.
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By Dennis
I have a bulldog i bought from home depot in 2013. In the last season it started refusing to shift from neutral to either forward or reverse. I changed the trans axle fluid and made sure the cables were lubricated and free. With a lot of coaxing, I can sometimes get it to shift. once I start driving it, things improve until I let it set awhile. Any suggestion on where to go from here?
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By redneckred
I have a 2012 Bennche Bighorn 700X. I bought it used. It had been sitting in a field for several years untouched. I put a new sun gear in the shifter, new shifter linkage due to the old one having been patched, and a new battery (and of course fresh fuel). The machine cranked and ran beautifully. I had it over a year and then the machine quit running. As it would not stay cranked, I narrowed the problem down to a bad IAC valve. I replaced it and it ran as good as new/old. Fast forward, the machine started to act like reverse wasn't catching and would not always back up when in gear. Then forward quit. I assumed a bad CVT belt and got one. Started removing the bolts from the cover and (3) just turn in the housing without coming loose. (2) are on the bottom, so very little room to do anything with them. I tried cranking the machine again to see the belt move since I can move the cover enough to see the belt and now the machine will not crank. It turns over fine. It gets gas to the injector and has spark. I can spray cleaner down her throat and she would run until it ran out. I have replaced the IAC twice and put a new injector with no change. I went out and put the old injector back in to see if that made any difference and, well, it did. I tried to crank the machine and the starter is stuck trying to turn the machine over even with the key off. I have to disconnect the battery to stop it. Before I shoot this thing, what am I missing? Is this an ECM problem or something else I am not seeing? Been dealing with these Gremlins for over a month now and weeds are starting to overtake the motor due to it not moving. I would love to get the thing running first and any ideas of getting those CVT cover bolts out would be extremely helpful. Thanks in advance.
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By Kingfish
The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle. It never rode great, but now I feel every crack in the road. I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff. I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order. Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate? I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
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