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Guest Lenny
Posted

Do you have the 1100trooperT2-T4_owners_manual? Mine is 27,248 Kb, so I can't email it, so I zipped it to 23,831 Kb and I think I can email that, do you want it? PM me with email address if you want it. (ANY ONE)

Kinarfi

On that owners manual, I talked to Joyner and they plan on selling a lot of Troopers soon. They wanted me to ask if you could send them 5000 copies. They prefer you print them out and send it that way. I said that your a real nice guy and it shouldn't be any problem.

Lenny

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Posted

Do you have the 1100trooperT2-T4_owners_manual? Mine is 27,248 Kb, so I can't email it, so I zipped it to 23,831 Kb and I think I can email that, do you want it? PM me with email address if you want it. (ANY ONE)

Kinarfi

i do have one but i dont think its for my 09 t2

  • 1 month later...
Posted

will do buddy thanks again

I still have the power loss problem still havent found the source been talking with casey but now im wondering if the ecu is just bad

Posted

i have a new problem. my alt will not charge unless i induce 12volts to the white wire briefely . with the engine running before i induce power she reads 2.78 volts

after i induce voltage she jumps to 14 volts .

i changed out the alt. thinking the voltage reg was cooked . that didn't solve the problem

any ideas on what the problem might be .

also my spedo doesn't work, when she does the diagnostic it stokes but does not read speed at all

Posted

a friend was having a powerloss problem with the same symptoms. we changed out the fuel filter dumped injector cleaner into her .

and changed out the bad fuel. found that the fuelpump was being starved. something had jelled up in the filter

Posted

Maybe a sensor somewhere. The problem in today engines/cars there is so many things that are inter-related. For instant, on the Dodge Pickup, the sensor for speed located at the rear diff also controls the ABS brakes system. Have you tried a direct call for help to one of the dealers? I do wish you good luck. If anyone gets answers to problems, PLEASE post so we can share the solution.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted

krusstygun, sorry if I mislead you. I was saying a sensor, not necessarily the speed sensor of the Dodge example. Knowing which sensor is a little beyond my expertise. You can try the trial and error method of unplugging a single sensor and seeing what the results are. If no change in the performance of the Trooper, this maybe the problem sensor. This is how we use to check spark plugs, pulling the wire one at a time until you found the bad plug. Try the same thing with the sensors,, one at a time pull the wire and see if there is any decrease in performance. If there is decrease in performance, the sensor is working. If the engine has no change, the sensor maybe bad or not working. Just an idea!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Guest Lenny
Posted

i have a new problem. my alt will not charge unless i induce 12volts to the white wire briefely . with the engine running before i induce power she reads 2.78 volts

after i induce voltage she jumps to 14 volts .

i changed out the alt. thinking the voltage reg was cooked . that didn't solve the problem

any ideas on what the problem might be .

also my spedo doesn't work, when she does the diagnostic it stokes but does not read speed at all

You could have a bad computer. My speedo didn't work a while back and when I put in another computer out of a Trooper at my dealer, it worked. I beleive mine was the result of not pulling the computer when welding on the Trooper. The speedo I beleive gets it's signal from the speed sensor and not the computer but they both share the output. The speed sensor is on the transmission housing just ahead of the starter. Look in the manual and it will show how to check it. It has a red wire going to it which I think sends it a voltage and the black wire is the ground. The last wire from the speed sensor goes to the computer , pin #39. This wire also probably goes to the speedometer. I believe that the alternator white wire gets it's12v signal when the key is turned on. Here's the layout. A +12 volts comes from the battery to the ignition switch. From there a red wire with a green tracer goes to the battery charge light on the dash. You can pull that entire pannel of switches by using a screw driver to pry it out of the dash. From the battery charge light a brown wire with a white tracer goes to a plug out of which a white wire goes to the alternator. Can't remember where the plug is, probably near the light. Once the alternator is engerized, the alternator probably then keeps itself energized. It also probably sends a signal back to the red battery charging light turning it off. I'm not real sure about what is turning the light off. You could possibly run a wire from the starter circuit to the white wire so that when you started it, the alternator would get it's 12v shot. This could be a potential fix if you can't find the problem. If you do this go to radio shack and get a diode, It allows current to flow only one way so that when it running the white wire isn't feeding current back to the starter. Kinarfi could probably tell you what size diode you would need. I'm just sort of thinking out loud here. Hopefully you will get some ideas from it.

Lenny

Posted

a friend was having a powerloss problem with the same symptoms. we changed out the fuel filter dumped injector cleaner into her .

and changed out the bad fuel. found that the fuelpump was being starved. something had jelled up in the filter

i just found out my fuel pump was bad it had a glitch in it where it would only pump half the volume sometimes

  • 4 months later...
  • 1 year later...
Posted

UPDATE after almost two years of picking this thing apart i found out what was causing my intermitant power loss or limp home mode the factory had my O2 Sensors hooked up backwards so finally it runs as it should thanks for all the help

Posted

UPDATE after almost two years of picking this thing apart i found out what was causing my intermitant power loss or limp home mode the factory had my O2 Sensors hooked up backwards so finally it runs as it should thanks for all the help

glad you hung in there.

Guest Lenny
Posted

Just finished a trip down to see my wifes family in Tucson, AZ. On the way down I spent some time with Casey at JMC. He told me that the carbon canister can get filled up with gas and cause the enghine to run poorly. Myself, I would just omit it but you then have to put a vent line on the gas tank. It can connect to the same port that the carbon canister hooked to.

Lenny

  • 3 years later...
Posted

UPDATE after almost two years of picking this thing apart i found out what was causing my intermitant power loss or limp home mode the factory had my O2 Sensors hooked up backwards so finally it runs as it should thanks for all the help

mine is doing this very same thing, seems like it only does it a few minutes after startup. say between about 160 F and 175 F on the temp gauge. I step on the clutch and rev it up and it gets better. as soon as it gets up to operating temp it runs perfect. when you say the o2 sensors were hooked up backwards, do you mean just swap the plugs between the sensors ? or were the wires in the wrong spots in the connector ?

Posted

mine is doing this very same thing, seems like it only does it a few minutes after startup. say between about 160 F and 175 F on the temp gauge. I step on the clutch and rev it up and it gets better. as soon as it gets up to operating temp it runs perfect. when you say the o2 sensors were hooked up backwards, do you mean just swap the plugs between the sensors ? or were the wires in the wrong spots in the connector ?

Maybe im wrong but If you swap the plugs on the sensors would it not be doing the same as swaping the wires on the connectors?

Posted

Maybe im wrong but If you swap the plugs on the sensors would it not be doing the same as swaping the wires on the connectors?

what I meant was plug the front O2 sensor wire into the back O2 sensor and vice versa

  • 1 month later...
Posted

After not riding for awhile kept having problems with it barely running checked fuel pressure and seen it was only about 20 psi changed filter and pump still the same ended up disconnecting power and ground from pump running my own ground and power from battery and dash mounted switch haven't had a problem since and since I'm running a turbo had to disconnect post o2 sensor

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