Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I decided to change the oil this afternoon and while geting down underneath I noticed what appeared to be grease coming out of the side of the diff.I then decided to pull the plug on the diff and there was a mound of thick oil on the end of the threads.I rubbed it between my fingers and it felt gritty.I them put a magnet in it and out came some metal shavings,not a whole lot.The oil also seemed dark grayish.I am going to try to post a picture below.Any thoughts?

Thanks,

http://www.utvboard.com/017JPG-image243.html

Posted

Same as mine with the first oil change but my diff had a magnet in the diff on the drain plug to catch metal. What did you use to replace the oil? I used Royal Purple and later in a discussion with Casey at Joyner, he agreed Royal Purple being the best. Pricey but great stuff.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted

Same as mine with the first oil change but my diff had a magnet in the diff on the drain plug to catch metal. What did you use to replace the oil? I used Royal Purple and later in a discussion with Casey at Joyner, he agreed Royal Purple being the best. Pricey but great stuff.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

havnt yet.what about the grease out the side?I tryed to put a photo but cant.The photo is on the top of the home page at the moment.Where can i get the oil?

Thanks rocmoc.

Posted

havnt yet.what about the grease out the side?I tryed to put a photo but cant.The photo is on the top of the home page at the moment.Where can i get the oil?

Thanks rocmoc.

I use Royal Purple exclusevly.. Even new units first thing on un-crating is to drain the diffs and tranny and install RP 75W-90 I get it at oreilly's autoparts.. about $17 a quart, I think you guys call them HI/LO out there, but any auto parts store should have it

Posted

I use Royal Purple exclusevly.. Even new units first thing on un-crating is to drain the diffs and tranny and install RP 75W-90 I get it at oreilly's autoparts.. about $17 a quart, I think you guys call them HI/LO out there, but any auto parts store should have it

okay thanks,but still would like to know about the grease coming out the side wher the axle goes into the diff,is it something to worry about?

Posted

okay thanks,but still would like to know about the grease coming out the side wher the axle goes into the diff,is it something to worry about?

From what I can see it does not look bad.. Just maybe a little seepage.. I would clean it up good and go run it see what it looks like after if there is more then replace the seal, that just looks like a normal 200 mile build up on my unit..

Posted

I use Royal Purple exclusevly.. Even new units first thing on un-crating is to drain the diffs and tranny and install RP 75W-90 I get it at oreilly's autoparts.. about $17 a quart, I think you guys call them HI/LO out there, but any auto parts store should have it

Do you use 75-90 in the tranny also?

Posted

Fixed the photo link for you,

I suggest you read and consider order the diff kit from Lenny, especially if you oil ever starts to look silvery.

Differential Upgrade Kits are available - UTV BOARD - Side X Side and UTV Forum

Kinarfi

Thank you,i just seem to have proplems with the photos.

Dont know if you can see it but at the bottom of photo you can see the oil,it does look silvery.What does the kits consist of and are they available for front and rear.I saw his post and may end up ordering them.

Posted

Thank you,i just seem to have proplems with the photos.

Dont know if you can see it but at the bottom of photo you can see the oil,it does look silvery.What does the kits consist of and are they available for front and rear.I saw his post and may end up ordering them.

I always find the fluid silvery on first oil change, even after only about 2 miles, But re-shimming the diffs and upgrading the bolts is the way to go, else you will be forced to source a new Diff in the future if it decides to let go.. I know I just ordered a nice stockpile of the upgraded diffs for all units.. Jarrad

Posted

I always find the fluid silvery on first oil change, even after only about 2 miles, But re-shimming the diffs and upgrading the bolts is the way to go, else you will be forced to source a new Diff in the future if it decides to let go.. I know I just ordered a nice stockpile of the upgraded diffs for all units.. Jarrad

what do you get for the upgraded diffs?

Posted

what do you get for the upgraded diffs?

I have 2 trooper diffs in stock and another 4 on the way 3 renegade and 4 commando, Pricing is still up in the air at the moment, I have to pay my ASE certified tech to take the diff apart and work his magic on it, We start with a NEW factory stock diff and rework it, I am working with someone else at the moment to provide me some upgraded ring and pinions, of a few different ratio's, but thats still a few months away, Takes a bit of time research and development, Then comes the fun time of Testing (AKA trying my damndest to break one) I will keep everyone updated on my progress

Jarrad

Posted

I have 2 trooper diffs in stock and another 4 on the way 3 renegade and 4 commando, Pricing is still up in the air at the moment, I have to pay my ASE certified tech to take the diff apart and work his magic on it, We start with a NEW factory stock diff and rework it, I am working with someone else at the moment to provide me some upgraded ring and pinions, of a few different ratio's, but thats still a few months away, Takes a bit of time research and development, Then comes the fun time of Testing (AKA trying my damndest to break one) I will keep everyone updated on my progress

Jarrad

Jarrad, Can we send you are old diff and you redo them if yes how much

Posted

Jarrad, Can we send you are old diff and you redo them if yes how much

You can for sure, The labor charge on it is 3 hours at 79.50 plus about $30 to cover parts that I need to procure and shipping, Per Differential, it is about a 1 day turn around time from when I hand the Diff to Zack to when it is in a box headed back to you. So about $250 per Diff not including shipping.

Zack has been building differentials for over 25 years from my riding lawnmower last year to full blown Pro-Mod cars putting down 4000+ HP Some people say he is the best in Texas, I am just glad to have him as a tech, best I have ever had

Jarrad

Posted

I always find the fluid silvery on first oil change, even after only about 2 miles, But re-shimming the diffs and upgrading the bolts is the way to go, else you will be forced to source a new Diff in the future if it decides to let go.. I know I just ordered a nice stockpile of the upgraded diffs for all units.. Jarrad

I thought you said your ordered a nice stockpile of upgraded diffs,so what you have is stock and then you upgrade them? so you have no price yet?

Posted

2234079920104282158sPBTef_th.jpg

for those of you who haven't been inside their differentials yet, I highly recommend that you do, and change the bolt and make sure this set screw is tight, if it backs off, the pin can come out and grind away at the inside of the diff. take a look at the whole album.

Kinarfi.

Posted

I thought you said your ordered a nice stockpile of upgraded diffs,so what you have is stock and then you upgrade them? so you have no price yet?

I ordered a load of diffs, They are the new upgraded ones, But I am not putting the No Limits name on it untill I take a few apart to make sure they will hold up under the hardest stuff we can throw at it, short of outright abuse.. The word you were hearing from TJUSA on the upgraded diffs and such, coming from same supplier
Posted

2234079920104282158sPBTef_th.jpg

for those of you who haven't been inside their differentials yet, I highly recommend that you do, and change the bolt and make sure this set screw is tight, if it backs off, the pin can come out and grind away at the inside of the diff. take a look at the whole album.

Kinarfi.

Thanks Kinarfi,very helpful.

Posted

2234079920104282158sPBTef_th.jpg

for those of you who haven't been inside their differentials yet, I highly recommend that you do, and change the bolt and make sure this set screw is tight, if it backs off, the pin can come out and grind away at the inside of the diff. take a look at the whole album.

Kinarfi.

Kiarfi,

Can this be put up in one of the pinned folders so anyone looking for special or unique fixes will see it?

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Gorj
      I am going to replace the batteries in my E1. I am not interested in the high cost Lithium or the expensive 6 volt dry batteries.  I am considering four 12 volt deep charge marine batteries. I have a source for 810 amp units for about $100 each.  I have no worries about reprograming the charger because it went out a few years ago and I replaced it with generic golf cart charger. When I decide to do this, I'll keep you posted on the results.
    • By mcraigchr
      Howdy y'all,
      I have the service manual, but it leaves me with questions.
      1)  It is time to change the diff fluid.  The service manual says 80w-90 for the rear and Dextron 3 ATF for the front!  Is that correct?  That seems odd to me.
      2) The service manual also speaks of the need to change the transmission fluid but gives no detail about it.  What needs to happen here?
      3). The service manual also discusses changing the final drive fluid with 80-90 Hypoid.  Is the final drive actually the tranny?
      Any details about the changing of the fluid or what fluid to use ... or even other things that need to be changed that the manual does not mention would be appreciated.
      Thanks,
      Craig C.  
    • By Jim Kessell
      Hi All
      Just installed a predator 670 on my Landmaster. My question is can I remove the low oil pressure wire fitting and plumb my mechanical gauge into that access point?
      Thanks in advance for your advice !!
      Jim
    • By lincolnsq175
      Ive searched and cannot find any performance parts that fit my machine.
      I have a 2020 coleman ut400.
      Im looking for machined sheave kit, programmers, cdi, exhaust and intake.
      I know these are yamaha rhino clones but are they rhino 450 clones?
       
      Any info is appreciated.
    • By bms stallion owner
      hello, my BMS Stallion 600 is having accleration issues. the manual fails to show final gear oil diagrams very well... I have the owners manual and suspect issue is associated to transmission , I want to check the level of the gearoil. I located a drain plug (but not the fill plug nor dipstick). It will run - but wont exceede 2mph. Troubleshooting suggestions or comprehensive manual suggestions? Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...