Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All,

Still not counting chickies, but day two and it idles fine. The only thing I have done different is putting pedal to the medal before ignition. I know this is not necessary for fuel injection, but if it works, I'm happy. I removed throttle sensor and IAC, and sprayed both internaly with contact spray. So far so good. Thx for everybody's input. Learning allot. And here I thought I was just a "turn key" kind of guy...................:)

Lenny,

Does IAC stand for "internal air control"?

Thx,

Frankie

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

Hi All,

Still not counting chickies, but day two and it idles fine. The only thing I have done different is putting pedal to the medal before ignition. I know this is not necessary for fuel injection, but if it works, I'm happy. I removed throttle sensor and IAC, and sprayed both internaly with contact spray. So far so good. Thx for everybody's input. Learning allot. And here I thought I was just a "turn key" kind of guy...................:)

Lenny,

Does IAC stand for "internal air control"?

Thx,

Frankie

Frankie,

Congrats,must feel like a weights been taken off your shoulders.We will all keep our fingers crossed.Keep us posted and dont run off from us and not stay in touch.

Guest Lenny
Posted

Hi All,

Still not counting chickies, but day two and it idles fine. The only thing I have done different is putting pedal to the medal before ignition. I know this is not necessary for fuel injection, but if it works, I'm happy. I removed throttle sensor and IAC, and sprayed both internaly with contact spray. So far so good. Thx for everybody's input. Learning allot. And here I thought I was just a "turn key" kind of guy...................:)

Lenny,

Does IAC stand for "internal air control"?

Thx,

Frankie

It's referred to by a couple of different names. IAC is for Idle air controller. Some may say Idle air actuator. Internal air control works for me.

Lenny

Posted

Frankie,

Congrats,must feel like a weights been taken off your shoulders.We will all keep our fingers crossed.Keep us posted and dont run off from us and not stay in touch.

Yeah Rick,

Hope this is it. And I will stay on board. Wish I had a T-2 instead. That xtra cylinder and cc's must run pretty good. Never had the R-2 above 60. Tachs pretty high. Would have been great to have an OD gear for highway use. Oh, well, be content with what we have B)

Frankie

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Lenny,

If problem begins again, do you think it is the IAC and can one be obtained? Rough $?

Thx

Posted

All,

Day 3 and starting to count the chickies. Think I will replace both sensors as they become available. A couple of spares will be worth saving aggrevation.

Frankie

Posted

After thinking about what Lenny said about the IAC (referred to as DLA on page 106 of the Owner's Manual / Parts Manual T2, T4 with a picture of a slightly older Yellow Trooper like mine on the front page, Winch is down low,) is that after you get started and every thing is idling just fine, disconnect the IAC plug and the it has to stay where it is. It is my guess that it readjusts every time you start it. I'm going to undo mine the next time I get it started and see if it starts better after that.

Kinarfi

Guest Lenny
Posted

After thinking about what Lenny said about the IAC (referred to as DLA on page 106 of the Owner's Manual / Parts Manual T2, T4 with a picture of a slightly older Yellow Trooper like mine on the front page, Winch is down low,) is that after you get started and every thing is idling just fine, disconnect the IAC plug and the it has to stay where it is. It is my guess that it readjusts every time you start it. I'm going to undo mine the next time I get it started and see if it starts better after that.

Kinarfi

If yours is starting hard, you might try increasing the pressure by adjusting the fuel regulator. The engine is cold and the gas doesn't evaporate as quickly and thus it's necessary to have a ricker mixture or more gas to evaporate to get a proper gas vapor-oxygen mixture that will ignite. If the mixture is too lean, it just won't ignite.

Lenny

Guest Lenny
Posted

Do you know what the stock setting is for fuel pressure and what setting would you advise?

I think the manual shows 42-44 PSI. The guy in Arizonia that puts turbos on Troopers said it should be about 52. Here's the thing. When an engine is cold the gas doesn't evaporate as quickly. As a result, to get proper gas vapor/air ratios for ignition, the computer richens the mixture. With more gas, there is more to evaporate from and thus provides more vapor. If your starting hard, it is possible that a little higher fuel regulator setting would help. Hard cold starting could also be a result of a bad coolant temperature sensor. I don't know what the computer sees if the sensor is bad. I believe that the sensor has a resistance circuit that increases in resistance as temperature increases. The computer sends the sensor, I believe, a 5v signal and the sensor sends back something less than that depending on temperature. If the computer sees high voltage as hotter then if the sensor circuit was shorted, it might send back a voltage signaling the computer that the engine is hotter than it really is. If the computer sees a warmed up engine, it won't richen the mixture for starting like it would on a cold engine. As a result, the gas vapor/air mixture could be too lean for proper ignition. There may be some other sinarios that others can add with explinations so we all can learn from their input.

Lenny

Posted

Thx All,

I finally am looking at hatched chickens. The R-2 idles fine. It was a sticky IAC sensor. After a year and a 1/2, I can finally chalk up some miles. Thx for everyone's input.:)

Frankie

Posted

Thx All,

I finally am looking at hatched chickens. The R-2 idles fine. It was a sticky IAC sensor. After a year and a 1/2, I can finally chalk up some miles. Thx for everyone's input.:)

Frankie

Fantastic, guess I know what I'm gonna try next. My throttle body was full of oil when I took it apart, I cleaned my IAC but only with alcohol, I will also do ohms testing on it too.

Again, congrats and we're all glad to hear we helped someone.

Kinarfi

Posted

Thx All,

I finally am looking at hatched chickens. The R-2 idles fine. It was a sticky IAC sensor. After a year and a 1/2, I can finally chalk up some miles. Thx for everyone's input.:)

Frankie

Frankie.

Great to hear it.Now you have a new proplem,putting all those lost miles on her(LOL).Have fun and maybe we will see you around there sometime.

Posted

Fantastic, guess I know what I'm gonna try next. My throttle body was full of oil when I took it apart, I cleaned my IAC but only with alcohol, I will also do ohms testing on it too.

Again, congrats and we're all glad to hear we helped someone.

Kinarfi

I originally pulled plug, cleaned with contact spray and then dielectric grease. Didn't help till I pulled sensor and contact sprayed the bullet looking plunger. Must have been loosing proper contect internally is my guess. Thank God fro small miracles and guys like you on this great forum.

Frankie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Rainman
      I want to put a charger/maintainer for my Coleman UT400 for the winter and need to know if it uses a 6v or 12v battery.
      One search online showed a 6v, but another stated 12v..
      I can look at the battery, but after taking the seat out you cannot see the top of the battery without also removing the top plate under the seat and at 8 degrees outside, I'd rather not be out there too long.
      Can anyone verify what volt (6 or 12) the batter is?
      Thanks in advance ...
    • By JDawg
      Was using the machine all day to haul wood...no issues until the end...
      When I try to start it, the dash lights come on but starter does not...seems like no power to the starter.
      It is in park, but when I put the brake on to start, it registers N.
      Won't start in neutral either...
      Tried rocking it, did not help...
      Help...
    • By Homeowner A
      Picked up an essentially new 2022 UT400 with 9 miles on it.  Decided to change the oil because it's probably never been done.  Pulled the dipstick and noticed it was overfull then went and pulled the drain plug and took off the filter and it was like brown water running out.  What should I start checking?
    • By rev6engines
      Black Friday is here, and we’re excited to give our offroad family 20% off on all parts and kits! Whether you're prepping for new trails or just fine-tuning your rig, we've got what you need to keep rolling. Now Is also a great time to upgrade your sled, winter's coming fast!
      If you have any questions or need help finding the right part, feel free to call, text, or email us. We’re here for you!
      Call or Text:
      801) 489-8697
      Email at:
      [email protected]
       
      Happy riding!!! 🤘

    • eManualonline.com Save 30% OFF Sitewide, Use code: XMAS30
    • By Jacob E freeman
      I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 I bought brand new almost 2 years ago the first month I had it the exhaust broke and burnt the spark plug wire in two that was a recall so the dealership installed the new one it had a different design and it bolted up to the bottom two plugs below the spark plug the dealership said they had to Adjust the exhaust valves I get the machine back thanking everything is good now wrong not even a week after I get it back the timing chain tensioner comes apart inside the motor I take it back to the dealership They put one on I get the machine back thanking everything is good but then just like before not even a week goes by when I was riding the Machine automatically quits going come to find out the wet clutch was burned up the primary clutch head stripped off of the splines I get that fixed and then  it overheats I take it back they bleed the air out of the coolant they bring it back to me the same day that I get it back it overheats again I take it back they temporarily fix it again just enough to let the warranty run out and now the machine has been to multiple different mechanics I have had them try to bleed the air out they have stood it up on its end I have had the water pump changed I have had the fan hooked to a switch so I could leave it on all the time but still almost 2 years later not even 200 hours on the machine and I cannot ride it The dealership will not take it back as a lemon I have tried I am at my wits end I have no clue what to try next



×
×
  • Create New...