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By Jacob E freeman
I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 I bought brand new almost 2 years ago the first month I had it the exhaust broke and burnt the spark plug wire in two that was a recall so the dealership installed the new one it had a different design and it bolted up to the bottom two plugs below the spark plug the dealership said they had to Adjust the exhaust valves I get the machine back thanking everything is good now wrong not even a week after I get it back the timing chain tensioner comes apart inside the motor I take it back to the dealership They put one on I get the machine back thanking everything is good but then just like before not even a week goes by when I was riding the Machine automatically quits going come to find out the wet clutch was burned up the primary clutch head stripped off of the splines I get that fixed and then it overheats I take it back they bleed the air out of the coolant they bring it back to me the same day that I get it back it overheats again I take it back they temporarily fix it again just enough to let the warranty run out and now the machine has been to multiple different mechanics I have had them try to bleed the air out they have stood it up on its end I have had the water pump changed I have had the fan hooked to a switch so I could leave it on all the time but still almost 2 years later not even 200 hours on the machine and I cannot ride it The dealership will not take it back as a lemon I have tried I am at my wits end I have no clue what to try next
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By Greg Kilgore
Last year bought a small universal coolant style cab heater. Well I installed it today. Thanks to another member, RangeRider45, and his install
That told in his post the size fitting he used. I got the same fittings plus a few others. And all went kinda smooth. Took a few minutes to get air purged from coolant system. Should have parked on hill with front up in the air. But would have had a hard time working on it.
I had a variable power switch connected to an overhead cab fan. Never really used the fan that much. And I have to remove the fan to put on my cab enclosure anyway. So I repurposed the switch to supply power for the heater. The heater has 2 12-volt DC computer fans that are rated for 1.8 amps each. So it's not going to be a big drain on the weak charging system. And with the switch I've got great control over the speed of the fans.
If anyone is interested the radiator hoses are 7/8 inch. I reworked the temperature sending unit (moved it closer to radiator) to make room for all the extra plumbing I did to get the heater to work the way I wanted.
Plumbing parts list.
10-15 worm water clamps. 3/4 to 1 1/4 inch size.
2 1" x 3/4" x 1" PEX Tee
1 3/4" PEX ball valve
1 1" PEX ball valve
5/8" heater hose. I got 6' and probably have 4' left over.
I used the radiator house I cut out to use as splices between the PEX fittings. The PEX fittings are not true to their dimensions that are stated on the package. So they fit the 5/8" and 7/8" very nicely.
They way I have it plumbed is from radiation out side. A tee, then the 1" ball valve, then a Tee. Coming off the Tees are the hoses going to the heater core. There is a 3/4" ball valve on one of the Tees. The ball valves are used to bypass the heater core in the summer. Or direct the hot coolant through the heater core in winter. The temperature sending unit tells me how hot the coolant is. And if anything is getting too hot. The dash also has an idiot light that comes on if the head gets too hot. But doesn't do anything if the radiator gets too hot. There is a temp sensor on the radiator that controls the electrical fan. But if the coolant isn't circulating. That switch never sends a signal to turn on the fan. But enough talking/rambling. Everyone wants to see pics. The only thing I need to change is the orientation of the handle on the 1" ball valve. I have 2" or more clearance between the handle and the tire when cut hard right. But I still don't like it. And instead of taking the valve out and rotating 180°. I'm just going to take the nut off and rotate the handle 180°. Think I need to make a locking mechanism to lock the handles in place so they don't vibrate closed when the machine is moving.
The temperature sending unit and housing. Size 22 mm. Aluminum from Amazon.
Upper Tee the lower Tee is identical. Can also see the handle of the 3/4" ball valve on the 5/8" hose going to the heater.
The 1" ball valve. Goes between the 2 Tees
Wide view of the plumbing.
The heater installed in the sxs. The 3 black hoses are just hanging there. Zip ties to the heater but not attached to any thing. Will probably just direct 2 toward the wife's feet. And 1 toward mine. Or what ever is need as the heat is needed on rides. The black hose in passenger floorboard is some 1" hose that is not needed. Don't know what I'll do with it.
I think if I was going to do it again. I'd put some Indian Head gasket dressing or silicone on the 1" side of the PEX fittings. And I may still do that. But I really hate the ideal of introducing air back in the coolant system.
Any questions just ask. It may take a while to answer. But I'll try.
Ya be good and stay warm over the next few months
Kilgore.
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By shawn b
my hisun died on me while driving it started losing power then stalled. it wants to start but wont . it didn't over heat. I replaced plug,fuel filter injector, and fuel pump.put code reader on it and says no codes. have any ideas possibly sensor? Any input on what it could be would be appreciated
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By Chucky 1
I purchased a new 2023 Landmaster UTV L4 in October of 2023. UTV didn't seem to have as much power of the demo L4 that I drove but figured once it broke in it would be better. After about a week the unit started bogging down backfiring and stopping. Gas fumes really bad, wait a few minutes and it would start up again. Brought it back to the dealer and after keeping it for a few weeks said he couldn't find anything wrong with it. Got it back home and it started acting up again, brought it back to dealer a week later and he said he found couple things that might cause it to do run bad and he was able to replicate the issue but didn't really know what was wrong. Got it back home again after being at dealer for several weeks and the unit started running bad again right away. Brought it back to dealer and he went back and forth with Kohler about possible fixes but just checked somethings and try to swap a few parts but still runs bad. I called Landmaster HQ to speak with someone about a refund and was told that was handled at the dealer level. Dealer called Landmaster and they told him they didn't do refunds or exchanges especially with units that had problems. The dealer is now trying to get a new engine to but I have not heard anything as of yet. I did file complaint with Better Business Bureau and they accepted my claim and reached out to Landmaster. The National Service Manager called me and said the he had been contacted by the BBB about the complaint and he would look into it. I told him that I would just like to have my down payment of $2,000.00 returned and never mind the over $1,000.00 I have paid in notes for a UTV that I cannot even ride on without hoping it gets me around the neighborhood. I have found out that the 2024 Landmaster UTVs will have Vanguard engines due to issues with the Kohler engines. Very disappointed in what is "Proudly Made in the USA" and the way Landmaster has treated this disabled veteran!
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