Quantcast
Jump to content


Coleman 2022 UT 400 radiator thermo switch replacement question


Go to solution Solved by aefron88,

Recommended Posts

Posted

Mine is overheated/burned/melt at connection with its wire connector, parts are ordered to replace both them.  This seems to be a common issue, and some of you already replaced it. I right now just connect the wires, so the fan runs  all the time whenever the initiation is on, but it's better let fan runs as needed with a working temperature sensor/switch. 

Question: Does some coolant come out by removing the switch/sensor from radiator?  Or, is the threaded hole all the way inside radiator?   If the answer is yes,  I want to drain or extract  some coolant to make its level below the sensor before replacing it, so I don't make a mess with coolant spilled out 

Thank you.  

  • moonrover changed the title to Coleman 2022 UT 400 radiator thermo switch replacement question
  • Solution
Posted

Normally yes it touches coolant and you'll need to drain below that level and refill after replacement.

When you refill the radiator, these things can be a bear to bleed all the air from the cooling system. Any air left will lead to more overheating issues. There's a plug on the right side of the engine where the rad hose goes in that you can partially loosen while running to help bleed air.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thank you, aefron88.

My ordered  switch came today, and I installed it. Before I installed it, I extracted the coolant through top radiator with the pipe reach its bottom. Only about 200 cc came out, so when I removed old switch, almost no coolant came out from there. After I installed the new one, I poured back the extracted coolant through top of radiator. 

I'll test runs to see if fan runs when engine/coolant  is hot enough ( I believe at least 75 C), and also if overheat happens due to air in the system and requires bleeding.

Posted

I replaced mine with an adjustable switch.We tested oem and it did not engage fan   til over 230 degrees F. This is why it blew headgaskets and the heat in the cab was unbearable.Set new switch to come on at 180 *F. Cab is much cooler and no more boil overs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Greg Kilgore
      I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can.
       
      I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle. 
      We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job.
       
      Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home. 
       
      Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good.
      But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy.
       
      Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.
    • By CYJSP2009
      Dear Joyner owners
      Any one who is looking for below Joyner parts please send email to casey from Leaf Asia  ( please send to [email protected] and cc to casey2leafasia.biz & [email protected])
      Currently, we have supply below parts: 
      1.  cv axles, cv rebuild kits, cv boots
      2.  Differentials and differential ring and pinion set
      3. Cables, 
      4. Brake parts
      5. Engine parts
      6. Other parts. 
      We will provide better price, close follow up ... 
      We can arrange productioni for parts that we can collect demands from customers  
      Have a good weekend
      Casey /  Leaf Asia 
      2023-11-17
       
    • By SayHiToRambo
      I’m looking to buy a camshaft cover for my 08 trooper 1100. Can’t find ANYTHING online. Anyone have a parts machine or know where to buy one? 
       
      thanks 
    • Get More For Your Device
    • By BMurph
      Hi everyone. I am new here to the forum and am excited to learn from all of you with more experience than me with UTVs. Our Axis750 we use on the hobby farm started to have some issues going into gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and completely stopped as required with these machines. I thought it was the linkage and adjusted it to where it is accurately shifting with the engine off and key in the on position. I start the engine and it won't shift gears (yes foot is on the brake). I thought maybe it was the shift lever teeth so I opened the assembly and this picture shows what I just found. I assume this means the wet clutch would need replaced too while draining and flushing the oil. What else should I consider or be looking at? Any idea what could cause this? I don't see visible leaks or cracks in the system anywhere. Thanks in advance for the help!
       
       

×
×
  • Create New...