Quantcast
Jump to content


commando stick stoppers

muleskinner

By muleskinner
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

muleskinner Rookie

muleskinner

Posted
Posted

Any aftermarket stick-stoppers out there for the front drive shafts? The factory pastric ones are useless. I also found a source for cv boots, Norrec Industries, www.norrecind.com. They're a universal boot that fits commando,trooper and renegade.They'er a tough fit to get them over the rear outside cv , but they seem like a tough rubber. They'er pretty proud of them, $34 apiece at a polaris dealer. The website shows a list of other dealers but all I have is polaris.

brostar Proficient

brostar

Posted
Posted

Those Commando front propeller guards look cheep but probably do the job they are designed for. I do agree with you and I would take them off, then go down to your locale engineer shop and get them to make up some aluminum replacements. He can use your old plastic ones as a templates.

Cheers Mike.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • didgeridoo
      Hisun Sector e1 Battery replacement: any tips?
      By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • Robbie Wyre
      2005 Cub Cadet side by side front axles
      By Robbie Wyre
      I'm working on a 2005 Cub Cadet side by side and I'm trying to remove the front two axles.  I have a slide hammer puller on the inner joint and with all my strength they will not budge.   Anyone have the same issues and is there something I'm missing or a trick of some sort to pull these out?   Any suggestions please and thank you.
    • BMurph
      Please help 2021 Axis 750 crew won't shift into gear and found milky oil on inspection
      By BMurph
      Hello everyone! I am new here and have no experience with UTVs but I am quickly getting some. I have a shifting problem where I can shift through all gears without the engine running but as soon as I start the engine I can not select a gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and yes the pin is being pulled to go into reverse if I was to try going into reverse. The shift lever does not move. I adjusted the linkage to get more accurate shifting with the engine off so I know those are now correct. I opened the shift lever housing to inspect the teeth on the gear and found this picture below. Why is this oil so milky looking? I assume with oil like this I'll need to replace the wet clutch as well but am not positive. Does anyone have any input into how to flush this system and get things shifting correctly? Thanks in advance for all the help!

    • BMurph
      2021 Axis 750 crew having shifting issue and found milky oil
      By BMurph
      Hi everyone. I am new here to the forum and am excited to learn from all of you with more experience than me with UTVs. Our Axis750 we use on the hobby farm started to have some issues going into gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and completely stopped as required with these machines. I thought it was the linkage and adjusted it to where it is accurately shifting with the engine off and key in the on position. I start the engine and it won't shift gears (yes foot is on the brake). I thought maybe it was the shift lever teeth so I opened the assembly and this picture shows what I just found. I assume this means the wet clutch would need replaced too while draining and flushing the oil. What else should I consider or be looking at? Any idea what could cause this? I don't see visible leaks or cracks in the system anywhere. Thanks in advance for the help!
       
       

    • Gerals
      2017 Massimo 500 that is locked in 4 wheel drive
      By Gerals
      I have a 2017 Massimo 500 that is locked in 4 wheel drive don’t know if the switch is working or if it’s something else does it have a fuse for the switch 

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...