Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

My dad just purchased a used T2 and it has issues. It overheats quickly (went around the block twice)... Not sure if it is the thermostat or pump. Is the thermostat a part that can be picked up at an auto parts store, or do I need to order one from JMC? Also, when in two wheel drive, it does a clanging and banging routine. If I lock the rear differential in 2wd it does not. I assume this is what I have read about regarding the differentials. If you could give me some direction I would appreciate it. Thanks. Tyler

Posted

My dad just purchased a used T2 and it has issues. It overheats quickly (went around the block twice)... Not sure if it is the thermostat or pump. Is the thermostat a part that can be picked up at an auto parts store, or do I need to order one from JMC? Also, when in two wheel drive, it does a clanging and banging routine. If I lock the rear differential in 2wd it does not. I assume this is what I have read about regarding the differentials. If you could give me some direction I would appreciate it. Thanks. Tyler

Hi Tyler,

Welcome to the forum, have you read the threads about the diff and the upgrades, what year is your trooper? How familiar are you with it's operation, was the fan running? Are you pretty good with mechanics?

Also, would you mind filling out you profile so we can all get to know you better, who know, maybe one of us lives just around the corner from you, or the next town.

Kinarfi

Posted

Hi Tyler,

Welcome to the forum, have you read the threads about the diff and the upgrades, what year is your trooper? How familiar are you with it's operation, was the fan running? Are you pretty good with mechanics?

Also, would you mind filling out you profile so we can all get to know you better, who know, maybe one of us lives just around the corner from you, or the next town.

Kinarfi

I updated some of the profile information. I live in Caliente, NV, but my dad and the trooper are in vegas. It is a 2008. I am learning the mechanics when I need to fix something. I haven't dug into a differential yet so all the pics and posts regarding them are a little overwhelming. I am sure when I pull it apart with my dad and friends it will make more sense. My dad bought it in vegas and a water pump was, and still is, on order with JMC. I guess they are backordered. We were thinking it may be the thermostat. No water is leaking around the pump. Wondering if the thermostat might be stuck ???

The fan does work. It has its own switch on the console so you can run it at all times. It was purchased from Bryan Wright. I think he might be friends with some of you on this forum.. Thanks again.

Posted

Since you have a '08 for the clanging and banging routine I would check the rear diff mounts. On the '08 the brace will be round and will break. Later the changed the brace to rectangle tubing. Or the locker is adjusted so the locker is completely releasing. For the heating, is the rad fan working? You should hear it when you first turn the key on and before you hit the starter. Also if you are maintaining high RPMs it will heat if you don't do some mods.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Posted

Since you have a '08 for the clanging and banging routine I would check the rear diff mounts. On the '08 the brace will be round and will break. Later the changed the brace to rectangle tubing. Or the locker is adjusted so the locker is completely releasing. For the heating, is the rad fan working? You should hear it when you first turn the key on and before you hit the starter. Also if you are maintaining high RPMs it will heat if you don't do some mods.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

The fan does work. I just drove it around the block without going fast. 15-20 mph at the most... I it got hot enough for the gauge to be max. The overflow filled up a bit as well.

The braces on the bottom of the rear diff look like a couple heavy duty pieces of flat iron welded to the frame.. A long bolt goes through the diff housing and the flat iron on each side. It is also attached at the back of the housing to the frame. I will look through my manual about the locker completely releasing. Thanks.

Posted

Is it really getting hot. Some of the guys had bad temp sensor. What is in the cooling system? Water is not good enough in today's engines. You need coolant or water wetter. Are you having to add coolant to the system?

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Posted

The engine has been durable, not the weak link. Not a Hot Rod engine but dependable. Some of the connectors & sensors have not bee as good quality.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Posted

The engine has been durable, not the weak link. Not a Hot Rod engine but dependable. Some of the connectors & sensors have not bee as good quality.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

it is getting HOT. Not just the gauge. After I let it sit a while I could still not remove the radiator cap without fluid bloin out. It is bright green so I assume good. It looks like straight coolant. Even when I moved it from the driveway to the garage it started to heat up again after only being at slow idle for 3 or 4 minutes.

Posted

Make sure the belt is on correct rotating the water pump. Make sure the vent tube on the purge tank is clear. Try taking off the rad cap and then start the engine. Does air/smoke come out? Is the coolant moving? Be Careful! After that I would pull the thermostat and replace with one of the new ones that when they fail, they fail open. The old ones failed closed and caused the engine to overheat. After that a pressure test of the coolant system and compression test to check the head gasket.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Posted

My dad just purchased a used T2 and it has issues. It overheats quickly (went around the block twice)... Not sure if it is the thermostat or pump. Is the thermostat a part that can be picked up at an auto parts store, or do I need to order one from JMC? Also, when in two wheel drive, it does a clanging and banging routine. If I lock the rear differential in 2wd it does not. I assume this is what I have read about regarding the differentials. If you could give me some direction I would appreciate it. Thanks. Tyler

Hi I have a couple of 2008 with heating problems. I found that the fans were running backwards from what I believe is correct. I changed both of them to flow out the back of the Trooper instead of sucking air towards the engine. I also spaced the fan out about 3/4 of a inch. which changed the amount of air flow about ten times the original amount. I use a water wetter with a 50% antifreeze mixture. One other problem is they will air lock. To get all the air out of the system you need to disconnect the small water line (about 1/4 inch) that starts around the thermostat housing and goes into a T with two larger hoses, drivers side. You need to remove the hose at the T and hold it in the air above the motor while holding your finger over the hose barb to keep the coolant in. Now you need to get some one to top off the rad. This sounds like your biggest problem to me. I changed the Plastic T at the front of the engine by the water pump and had problems heating up until I got the air out of the system. It only takes a small about of water extra but it really works. My trooper would heat running at a idle until I did this. The reason for changing the plastic T was they were breaking and Joyner gave me the new steel ones for free. The problem is that no one was telling me about upgrades, my dealer always said he new nothing about them and they were not having any problems with anything. I guess I picked the wrong dealer. I also put a oil cooler and a manual guage on one of the troopers but later found out the manual guage was reading about 25 degrees too hot. I do not think I needed the oil cooler for the way I use my machine but with the bad temp guage I was willing to try anything. If you try the tips I left you at the top I think your problem will go away.

Guest Lenny
Posted

How about parking on a 30 degree or so down slop at a slight side angle to put the rad cap well to the high side. If topped off this way, would this get the air out do you think? I changed my oil pan to a custom aluminum one that holds 9 quarts. My oil pressure now holds much better even when it gets hot. I also run 15w50 Mobile 1 synthetic for a slightly higher overall viscosity especially being that I ride a lot in the hot desert type climate.

Lenny

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

All the sudden my T2 started overheating driving down a dirt road close to home. Fan was working and everything looked fine. I grabed my air compressor and started blowing it on the front side of the radiator, it looked clean not clogged with mud or anything like that however, I was shocked at how much dirts blew out of the fins!!! This fixed everything, no more

over heating!!! so even if the radiator looks clean the fins could simply be clogged with dust and dirt deep inside.

Posted

Hi I have a couple of 2008 with heating problems. I found that the fans were running backwards from what I believe is correct. I changed both of them to flow out the back of the Trooper instead of sucking air towards the engine. I also spaced the fan out about 3/4 of a inch. which changed the amount of air flow about ten times the original amount. I use a water wetter with a 50% antifreeze mixture. One other problem is they will air lock. To get all the air out of the system you need to disconnect the small water line (about 1/4 inch) that starts around the thermostat housing and goes into a T with two larger hoses, drivers side. You need to remove the hose at the T and hold it in the air above the motor while holding your finger over the hose barb to keep the coolant in. Now you need to get some one to top off the rad. This sounds like your biggest problem to me. I changed the Plastic T at the front of the engine by the water pump and had problems heating up until I got the air out of the system. It only takes a small about of water extra but it really works. My trooper would heat running at a idle until I did this. The reason for changing the plastic T was they were breaking and Joyner gave me the new steel ones for free. The problem is that no one was telling me about upgrades, my dealer always said he new nothing about them and they were not having any problems with anything. I guess I picked the wrong dealer. I also put a oil cooler and a manual guage on one of the troopers but later found out the manual guage was reading about 25 degrees too hot. I do not think I needed the oil cooler for the way I use my machine but with the bad temp guage I was willing to try anything. If you try the tips I left you at the top I think your problem will go away.

Snowbird was right! I am at my dad's house and played with the machine a little bit. It was air locked. I took it for a spin around the block and no issues with overheating. Thanks!

Now I have to get the driveline issue figured out. It seems like the rear differential to me and also the clutch needs to be adjusted or replaced.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Jacob E freeman
      I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 I bought brand new almost 2 years ago the first month I had it the exhaust broke and burnt the spark plug wire in two that was a recall so the dealership installed the new one it had a different design and it bolted up to the bottom two plugs below the spark plug the dealership said they had to Adjust the exhaust valves I get the machine back thanking everything is good now wrong not even a week after I get it back the timing chain tensioner comes apart inside the motor I take it back to the dealership They put one on I get the machine back thanking everything is good but then just like before not even a week goes by when I was riding the Machine automatically quits going come to find out the wet clutch was burned up the primary clutch head stripped off of the splines I get that fixed and then  it overheats I take it back they bleed the air out of the coolant they bring it back to me the same day that I get it back it overheats again I take it back they temporarily fix it again just enough to let the warranty run out and now the machine has been to multiple different mechanics I have had them try to bleed the air out they have stood it up on its end I have had the water pump changed I have had the fan hooked to a switch so I could leave it on all the time but still almost 2 years later not even 200 hours on the machine and I cannot ride it The dealership will not take it back as a lemon I have tried I am at my wits end I have no clue what to try next
    • By Hunterman22
      2021 Hisun Axis 500 UTV (From Lowes)
      Will NOT START
      MY apologies if this is to much info just wanted to give yal the most information possible for help.
      I'm a so called diyer. An Electrician by trade 21yrs. I got my S×S from my last job. The contractor purchased this S×S for this specific job brand new, from Lowes. They used it for hauling materials, tools, & a little bit of anything you can think of on an Industrial type job site. 
      I remember getting on the SxS one time & pushed the gas petal all the way to the floor & SxS had very little power. 
      So anyway ,when the job finished up back mid July this year (7/2024) , I asked the contractor what they was going to do with it. I was told to take it. Otherwise it would go to the contractors yard (storage yard) & most likely rust away. 
      Took it home washed it , it had a heavy coat of dust on it & in it dust was every where. My helper & I had to push it on the trailer to get it home.  After washing it throughly I let it sit & dry out for a good day and half, maybe 2 days. Before trying to start it. NO START. Will turn over & try to start but thats it. 
      So here's what I've purchased & installed. New Air Filter, new spark plug, new air idle control valve (AICV), new throttle position sensor, new throttle body, new oxygen sensor, new digital dash speedometer/fuel gauge/clock. 
      Also drained the old oil & gas & replaced with new oil & 93oct. gas. I should probably mention that I've changed the AICV twice. The 1st time I changed the AICV I was able to get the SxS started & let idle for at least 10-15min. Drove out of the garage, with very little power,  turned it around & barely got it back in the garage.That was the one & only time I've been able to start the SxS. I've also cleaned the Throttle Body and & intake with TB cleaner.  So after that the AICV was  making weird noise so I pulled it out & tried cleaning it, pretty sure I messed it up. So I purchased a Throttle Body that came with new AICV & TPS. Still NO START.  I've checked the fuel pump & the fuel injector.  I took the injector off still hooked up to wiring & turned the key over, the injector sprayed a lot of gas out kinda the size of a volleyball. I've also checked the clearance gap on the intake & exhaust valve. But today 11/2/2024 I'm going recheck spark plug gap & the valve gaps. And alot of other checking. Would the driver side seat belt have anything to do with it not starting?? I know the driver side seat belt has to be in gauged for full throttle "going fast". Thing is the drv. side seat belt will latch but feels like might be messed up inside of it. Tired opening it up but to no avail.  I've never had a S×S or 4wheeler so I was really excited when I got the S×S,not so much anymore.  I work on & fix my own vehicles usually no problems.  But this SxS is kicking my ass.
      So if possible & someone could help me with some ideas or tell me what Im doing wrong or did wrong, I would greatly appreciate it.  Thank you for reading thus far.
       
       
    • By Dennis
      I have  a bulldog i bought from home depot in 2013.  In the last season it started refusing to shift from neutral to either forward or reverse.  I changed the trans axle fluid and made sure the cables were lubricated and free.  With a lot of coaxing, I can sometimes get it to shift.  once I start driving it, things improve until I let it set awhile.   Any suggestion on where to go from here?
    • By CYJSP2009
      Dear Joyner owners
      Any one who is looking for below Joyner parts please send email to casey from Leaf Asia  ( please send to [email protected] and cc to casey2leafasia.biz & [email protected])
      Currently, we have supply below parts: 
      1.  cv axles, cv rebuild kits, cv boots
      2.  Differentials and differential ring and pinion set
      3. Cables, 
      4. Brake parts
      5. Engine parts
      6. Other parts. 
      We will provide better price, close follow up ... 
      We can arrange productioni for parts that we can collect demands from customers  
      Have a good weekend
      Casey /  Leaf Asia 
      2023-11-17
       
    • By mark walkom
      the regen braking on my e1 has stopped working unless (for eg) I am going down a hill in low and it's slowing things down to stick to the 10kph limit. when I drive and take my foot off the accelerator it's not initiating the regen to slow things down and instead just coasts at whatever speed it is at, or speeds up as the regen is not limiting it. the brake lights work, so it's probably not a fault with the sensor on the brake pedal
       
      hoping someone else might be able to provide some suggestions on things to check, as the mob that I bought it off seem to have gone silent on me
×
×
  • Create New...