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Posted

Has any one pulled their spark plugs yet? The manual points to a special "spanner". I started to do a compression check, but I don't have a plug socket that fits in the hole, even the one they supplied in the tool kit doesn't fit. What have you used.

Knarfi

Posted

Has any one pulled their spark plugs yet? The manual points to a special "spanner". I started to do a compression check, but I don't have a plug socket that fits in the hole, even the one they supplied in the tool kit doesn't fit. What have you used.

Knarfi

2222015210104282158ogKMhN_th.jpg 2700089390104282158ItNChe_th.jpg

The rest of the story, Joyner supplied me with 2 extra 13/16" plugs and a cheap plug wrench, the type you use with a screw driver, then they go and put 5/8" plugs in. I guess the extra plugs were so I could stop and help the quads out there that need the larger plugs.

Anyway, got the compression testing done, #1 - 95 #2 - 95 #3 - 135 #4 - 120. Any Idea as to what I have.

Kinarfi

Posted

From my racing perspective, the values are too far apart (95-135). My SWAG would be new rings, sorry! I did notice the blue smoke coming out of your exhaust when I was following you around in Farmington. Have you been adding oil to the engine? Valve seat seal failure is usually from age. You have not had it long enough. Maybe dirt in the intake before you had a chance to upgrade your filter! Are the plugs in the low compression cylinders dirty? Run it until it dies. If the plugs start fowling, go to a colder plug. BURN that oil, BP is! LOL!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Posted

From my racing perspective, the values are too far apart (95-135). My SWAG would be new rings, sorry! I did notice the blue smoke coming out of your exhaust when I was following you around in Farmington. Have you been adding oil to the engine? Valve seat seal failure is usually from age. You have not had it long enough. Maybe dirt in the intake before you had a chance to upgrade your filter! Are the plugs in the low compression cylinders dirty? Run it until it dies. If the plugs start fowling, go to a colder plug. BURN that oil, BP is! LOL!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Other than taking a while to do, how hard is it to change the rings? Does it mean pulling the engine?

Kinarfi

Posted

Hi I would do a wet compression test ,this will verify if it is worn leaking piston rings or a possible a valve issue .jusy add a little oil to the combustion

  • Like 1
Posted

sorry fat fingered , compression values should increase with oil added verses a dry compression test id it is a ring problem it stays close to same may be a valve issue

  • Like 1
Guest Lenny
Posted

Has any one pulled their spark plugs yet? The manual points to a special "spanner". I started to do a compression check, but I don't have a plug socket that fits in the hole, even the one they supplied in the tool kit doesn't fit. What have you used.

Knarfi

It is almost for sure the piston rings. I'm getting about 160psi on all four of my cylinders. That is before I deliberately lowered the compression. Can't tell you what it is now because you have my compression tester. Yes you do have to pull the engine to change the rings. Wait a minute, I changed my lower frame to have a removeable member under the right side of the engine. I can now open up the bottom of the engine without removing the engine. That said, I would take it to a good frame shop or capable welding shop and have them do the same to your frame. Then rebuild your engine without removing the engine. Sounds to me like the easier way to go. I say capable welding shop because anyone can buy a $200 welder and open a welding shop. Doesn't mean they know what they are doing. And no Kinarfy, I'm not going to modify your frame. I did mine when my engine was pulled. It takes a car lift to do it from the underside. Ever have a little ball of molten steel roll down your ear. Scarry; Besides I can't any longer weld good enough when I can't see it anymore and I'm upside down, turned inside out on my back and need to weld the top side of the frame from the underside while shaking. Crow shit I can do.

Lenny

Posted

Hi I would do a wet compression test ,this will verify if it is worn leaking piston rings or a possible a valve issue .jusy add a little oil to the combustion

sorry fat fingered , compression values should increase with oil added verses a dry compression test id it is a ring problem it stays close to same may be a valve issue

Let's see if I got this right, Run the test Dry, then add a teaspoon of oil and test again. should raise the pressure if it is a ring problem, but not if it is a valve problem, Correct?

Kinarfi

Posted

AND THEN,

Put her back together and run her until she DIES!

On a sirius side, I would pull the engine. Who knows you may have to have the cylinder walls bored / resurfaced & new pistons. I prefence is to pull the engine and do a complete overhaul.

BUT when I reach this stage I am hoping we have figured out if the Subaru Engine will fit. If I do all that engine work I better have MORE POWER!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Posted

AND THEN,

Put her back together and run her until she DIES!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Yea, pretty much what I got in mind, certainly not going to down it during riding season, maybe this winter. Gotta go put my front diff back together, and reinstall my power steering now that Lenny has fixed the gear box output shaft (stronger than I can believe, good job Lenny).

May look at Lenny's idea of removing the frame member that prevents dropping the pan so I can get at the crank shaft and the connecting rod bolts. May over insure it and let it roll off a cliff. May over insure me and drive it over a cliff. Not a good thing to write cause if it happened by accident, they may slow the pay off.

kinarfi

Posted

Yea, pretty much what I got in mind, certainly not going to down it during riding season, maybe this winter. Gotta go put my front diff back together, and reinstall my power steering now that Lenny has fixed the gear box output shaft (stronger than I can believe, good job Lenny).

May look at Lenny's idea of removing the frame member that prevents dropping the pan so I can get at the crank shaft and the connecting rod bolts. May over insure it and let it roll off a cliff. May over insure me and drive it over a cliff. Not a good thing to write cause if it happened by accident, they may slow the pay off.

kinarfi

Did the dry/wet compression test.

Cylinder #1 95 Dry 100 Wet

Cylinder #2 85 Dry 95 Wet

Cylinder #3 155 Dry 165 Wet

Cylinder #4 115 Dry 125 Wet

Got the diff done, got the power steering done,

Got the fuel line changed,

Put her back together and run her until she DIES!

Kinarfi

  • Like 1
Posted

Rings! Run her until she dies while saving your pennies. Start looking at what can be done to get more power / torque out of this engine. More torque would let it lug better thus rock climb better. Also won't hurt in the sand.

Ideas!

Torque Cam

Match the ports

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Guest Lenny
Posted

Rings! Run her until she dies while saving your pennies. Start looking at what can be done to get more power / torque out of this engine. More torque would let it lug better thus rock climb better. Also won't hurt in the sand.

Ideas!

Torque Cam

Match the ports

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Rocmoc, Jarrad sujested advancing the cam slightly to increase the low end torque, What are your thoughts? When I have mine down to increase the compression, I'm going to see if i can come up with a way to advance it without advancing the ignition at the same time. Any directives you may have on how much to advance it will be appreciated. I will be making it an adjustable advance if I can. That said, how about regrinding the cam? By the way, wouldn't the compression test with oil added help to temporarily block the rings from passing compression and indicate that the valves are where the loss problem is?

Lenny

Posted

Yeah, my understanding the oil will increase the rings ability and do nothing for the valve seals. This is a Chery car site that may have some insight into performance. Chery Automobile - China Car Forums I had the same thought if you could find someone that still understands grinding a cam. Maybe an aftermarket performance ignition for a GEO, LOL!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Posted

Another test you can perform that may help you isolate your compression problem is a cylinder leak-down test .If you have an air compressor and , If you are using a compression tester with a (screw-in hose) adaptor , you can usally clip your air hose from your air compressor onto the compression tester hose and apply air pressure into the cylinder .Making sure the engine is rotated so all 4 valves are closed (compression stroke) ,listen for air escaping (if it is coming from the intake you have a intake valve issue,if it is coming from the exhaust it is a exhaust valve issue, if no air is escaping remove the oil cap ,is air is coming from inside it is the rings hope this helps

Posted

2768157760104110397THIeiW_th.jpg 2577847660104110397JlJGAH_th.jpg 2686325550104110397yWgZpV_th.jpg

Here's some photos of my plugs. Has anyone heard of putting heat sink compound on the threads of your spark plugs? When I was flying a Rotax 100 HP engine, is was one of the thing you were supposed to do, So I thought I'd try it on my not so Cherry engine with busted rings. :blink:

kinarfi

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

2768157760104110397THIeiW_th.jpg 2577847660104110397JlJGAH_th.jpg 2686325550104110397yWgZpV_th.jpg

Here's some photos of my plugs. Has anyone heard of putting heat sink compound on the threads of your spark plugs? When I was flying a Rotax 100 HP engine, is was one of the thing you were supposed to do, So I thought I'd try it on my not so Cherry engine with busted rings. :blink:

kinarfi

Never did get a comment on the use of heat sink compound, any one else heard of doing this?

Was trying to get some part from JMC and asked Chauncei to relay the compression information to the technicians there and Chris sent me an email saying that the problem is more likely a blown head gasket. Also included a video,

about how to see if you have a leaky head gasket, Kind of a jerk IMHO. Product is http://www.uview.com/ProductDetail.php?PartNumber=560000, has anyone heard of this? Any one have any suggestions about maybe having a head gasket problem?

Thanks,

Kinarfi

Guest Lenny
Posted

Never did get a comment on the use of heat sink compound, any one else heard of doing this?

Was trying to get some part from JMC and asked Chauncei to relay the compression information to the technicians there and Chris sent me an email saying that the problem is more likely a blown head gasket. Also included a video,

about how to see if you have a leaky head gasket, Kind of a jerk IMHO. Product is http://www.uview.com/ProductDetail.php?PartNumber=560000, has anyone heard of this? Any one have any suggestions about maybe having a head gasket problem?

Thanks,

Kinarfi

If youhave a problem, you have to start tearing the engine down until you firnd it anyway. I don't need a kit to tell me you need to tear the engine down in your case. Taking the head off is the first step anyway.

Lenny

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