Quantcast
Jump to content


Spark Plugs


Kinarfi

Recommended Posts

Has any one pulled their spark plugs yet? The manual points to a special "spanner". I started to do a compression check, but I don't have a plug socket that fits in the hole, even the one they supplied in the tool kit doesn't fit. What have you used.

Knarfi

2222015210104282158ogKMhN_th.jpg 2700089390104282158ItNChe_th.jpg

The rest of the story, Joyner supplied me with 2 extra 13/16" plugs and a cheap plug wrench, the type you use with a screw driver, then they go and put 5/8" plugs in. I guess the extra plugs were so I could stop and help the quads out there that need the larger plugs.

Anyway, got the compression testing done, #1 - 95 #2 - 95 #3 - 135 #4 - 120. Any Idea as to what I have.

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From my racing perspective, the values are too far apart (95-135). My SWAG would be new rings, sorry! I did notice the blue smoke coming out of your exhaust when I was following you around in Farmington. Have you been adding oil to the engine? Valve seat seal failure is usually from age. You have not had it long enough. Maybe dirt in the intake before you had a chance to upgrade your filter! Are the plugs in the low compression cylinders dirty? Run it until it dies. If the plugs start fowling, go to a colder plug. BURN that oil, BP is! LOL!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From my racing perspective, the values are too far apart (95-135). My SWAG would be new rings, sorry! I did notice the blue smoke coming out of your exhaust when I was following you around in Farmington. Have you been adding oil to the engine? Valve seat seal failure is usually from age. You have not had it long enough. Maybe dirt in the intake before you had a chance to upgrade your filter! Are the plugs in the low compression cylinders dirty? Run it until it dies. If the plugs start fowling, go to a colder plug. BURN that oil, BP is! LOL!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Other than taking a while to do, how hard is it to change the rings? Does it mean pulling the engine?

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

Has any one pulled their spark plugs yet? The manual points to a special "spanner". I started to do a compression check, but I don't have a plug socket that fits in the hole, even the one they supplied in the tool kit doesn't fit. What have you used.

Knarfi

It is almost for sure the piston rings. I'm getting about 160psi on all four of my cylinders. That is before I deliberately lowered the compression. Can't tell you what it is now because you have my compression tester. Yes you do have to pull the engine to change the rings. Wait a minute, I changed my lower frame to have a removeable member under the right side of the engine. I can now open up the bottom of the engine without removing the engine. That said, I would take it to a good frame shop or capable welding shop and have them do the same to your frame. Then rebuild your engine without removing the engine. Sounds to me like the easier way to go. I say capable welding shop because anyone can buy a $200 welder and open a welding shop. Doesn't mean they know what they are doing. And no Kinarfy, I'm not going to modify your frame. I did mine when my engine was pulled. It takes a car lift to do it from the underside. Ever have a little ball of molten steel roll down your ear. Scarry; Besides I can't any longer weld good enough when I can't see it anymore and I'm upside down, turned inside out on my back and need to weld the top side of the frame from the underside while shaking. Crow shit I can do.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi I would do a wet compression test ,this will verify if it is worn leaking piston rings or a possible a valve issue .jusy add a little oil to the combustion

sorry fat fingered , compression values should increase with oil added verses a dry compression test id it is a ring problem it stays close to same may be a valve issue

Let's see if I got this right, Run the test Dry, then add a teaspoon of oil and test again. should raise the pressure if it is a ring problem, but not if it is a valve problem, Correct?

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

AND THEN,

Put her back together and run her until she DIES!

On a sirius side, I would pull the engine. Who knows you may have to have the cylinder walls bored / resurfaced & new pistons. I prefence is to pull the engine and do a complete overhaul.

BUT when I reach this stage I am hoping we have figured out if the Subaru Engine will fit. If I do all that engine work I better have MORE POWER!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Link to comment
Share on other sites

AND THEN,

Put her back together and run her until she DIES!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Yea, pretty much what I got in mind, certainly not going to down it during riding season, maybe this winter. Gotta go put my front diff back together, and reinstall my power steering now that Lenny has fixed the gear box output shaft (stronger than I can believe, good job Lenny).

May look at Lenny's idea of removing the frame member that prevents dropping the pan so I can get at the crank shaft and the connecting rod bolts. May over insure it and let it roll off a cliff. May over insure me and drive it over a cliff. Not a good thing to write cause if it happened by accident, they may slow the pay off.

kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea, pretty much what I got in mind, certainly not going to down it during riding season, maybe this winter. Gotta go put my front diff back together, and reinstall my power steering now that Lenny has fixed the gear box output shaft (stronger than I can believe, good job Lenny).

May look at Lenny's idea of removing the frame member that prevents dropping the pan so I can get at the crank shaft and the connecting rod bolts. May over insure it and let it roll off a cliff. May over insure me and drive it over a cliff. Not a good thing to write cause if it happened by accident, they may slow the pay off.

kinarfi

Did the dry/wet compression test.

Cylinder #1 95 Dry 100 Wet

Cylinder #2 85 Dry 95 Wet

Cylinder #3 155 Dry 165 Wet

Cylinder #4 115 Dry 125 Wet

Got the diff done, got the power steering done,

Got the fuel line changed,

Put her back together and run her until she DIES!

Kinarfi

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rings! Run her until she dies while saving your pennies. Start looking at what can be done to get more power / torque out of this engine. More torque would let it lug better thus rock climb better. Also won't hurt in the sand.

Ideas!

Torque Cam

Match the ports

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

Rings! Run her until she dies while saving your pennies. Start looking at what can be done to get more power / torque out of this engine. More torque would let it lug better thus rock climb better. Also won't hurt in the sand.

Ideas!

Torque Cam

Match the ports

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Rocmoc, Jarrad sujested advancing the cam slightly to increase the low end torque, What are your thoughts? When I have mine down to increase the compression, I'm going to see if i can come up with a way to advance it without advancing the ignition at the same time. Any directives you may have on how much to advance it will be appreciated. I will be making it an adjustable advance if I can. That said, how about regrinding the cam? By the way, wouldn't the compression test with oil added help to temporarily block the rings from passing compression and indicate that the valves are where the loss problem is?

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, my understanding the oil will increase the rings ability and do nothing for the valve seals. This is a Chery car site that may have some insight into performance. Chery Automobile - China Car Forums I had the same thought if you could find someone that still understands grinding a cam. Maybe an aftermarket performance ignition for a GEO, LOL!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another test you can perform that may help you isolate your compression problem is a cylinder leak-down test .If you have an air compressor and , If you are using a compression tester with a (screw-in hose) adaptor , you can usally clip your air hose from your air compressor onto the compression tester hose and apply air pressure into the cylinder .Making sure the engine is rotated so all 4 valves are closed (compression stroke) ,listen for air escaping (if it is coming from the intake you have a intake valve issue,if it is coming from the exhaust it is a exhaust valve issue, if no air is escaping remove the oil cap ,is air is coming from inside it is the rings hope this helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2768157760104110397THIeiW_th.jpg 2577847660104110397JlJGAH_th.jpg 2686325550104110397yWgZpV_th.jpg

Here's some photos of my plugs. Has anyone heard of putting heat sink compound on the threads of your spark plugs? When I was flying a Rotax 100 HP engine, is was one of the thing you were supposed to do, So I thought I'd try it on my not so Cherry engine with busted rings. :blink:

kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

2768157760104110397THIeiW_th.jpg 2577847660104110397JlJGAH_th.jpg 2686325550104110397yWgZpV_th.jpg

Here's some photos of my plugs. Has anyone heard of putting heat sink compound on the threads of your spark plugs? When I was flying a Rotax 100 HP engine, is was one of the thing you were supposed to do, So I thought I'd try it on my not so Cherry engine with busted rings. :blink:

kinarfi

Never did get a comment on the use of heat sink compound, any one else heard of doing this?

Was trying to get some part from JMC and asked Chauncei to relay the compression information to the technicians there and Chris sent me an email saying that the problem is more likely a blown head gasket. Also included a video,

about how to see if you have a leaky head gasket, Kind of a jerk IMHO. Product is http://www.uview.com/ProductDetail.php?PartNumber=560000, has anyone heard of this? Any one have any suggestions about maybe having a head gasket problem?

Thanks,

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

Never did get a comment on the use of heat sink compound, any one else heard of doing this?

Was trying to get some part from JMC and asked Chauncei to relay the compression information to the technicians there and Chris sent me an email saying that the problem is more likely a blown head gasket. Also included a video,

about how to see if you have a leaky head gasket, Kind of a jerk IMHO. Product is http://www.uview.com/ProductDetail.php?PartNumber=560000, has anyone heard of this? Any one have any suggestions about maybe having a head gasket problem?

Thanks,

Kinarfi

If youhave a problem, you have to start tearing the engine down until you firnd it anyway. I don't need a kit to tell me you need to tear the engine down in your case. Taking the head off is the first step anyway.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Reynolds Rocket
      I have a 2017 Intimidator XD4 800cc 4x4.  It will run great and then it's like it goes into safe mode and only runs on 1 cylinder.  It's not fouling out the plug when it happens.  Some times when I stop and restart it, it works fine.  First I thought it was a spark issue, then a fuel issue, but I feel like it's a short in the wiring some place. 
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By John M in Louisiana
      Quick question about replacing the plug.  One of the prongs pulled out, so I'm thinking it will be an easy fix to connect the old cord with a new plug but I'm unsure about the specs.  15amp 125v?  Is it more complicated than that?  I do plan to buy a plug that's water tight.
      Thanks in advance!
    • By Kingfish
      The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle.  It never rode great, but now I feel every  crack in the road.  I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff.  I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order.  Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate?  I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
    • By REDfletching
      Spent today at a Honda dealership looking at their 520 side by side, then on the way home past our Lowes noticed they had several new UTVs on site, so we U-turned and ducked in there. We were impressed that all that came for $9,999 metal whole length skid plate, nice sized bed, roof, windshield, side mirrors, winch, upgrade looking tires… all of which would have added thousands of dollars to an already expensive Honda 520. Now Honda does have a great reputation from my trusted UTV experienced buddy, so it has that going for it.
×
×
  • Create New...