Oil pressure sending unit
-
Similar Topics
-
By Jon V
Good afternoon. When the timing chain came off its lower gear (previous owner had over-tightened the tensioner), I ordered new parts.. chain, oil-pump chain, tensioner etc.. But now that it's time to put it back together, the main crankshaft makes a clang noise and stops when you turn it by hand. I want to solve this before assembling everything. The camshaft cover is off so that the valves aren't being activated. Should the transmission be in neutral to turn the crankshaft? The engine was running fine until the chain came off the lower gear. Then it would spin when the starter motor engaged so I assumed the crankshaft was spinning. Any advice is appreciated.
-
By Wesley
I have a 2022 500 Hisun product, I have had them in the past. I change my oil myself and trying to drain through the hole where I remove the plug is a mess. How does everyone keep the belly pan clean during the oil and filter service?
Wes Jackson
-
By amiracle40995
I've never seen the temperature go high on this thing. the fan runs almost all the time even though the sensor is reading at the very bottom of it's range. ive taken the cylinder head off. (nothing definitive but maybe a little fuel on top of piston with oil in it.i don't think this has anything to do with my problem )head gasket is 3 layers deep and I noticed some grit that might have been in between layers but nothing to say the head gasket wasn't intact. black carbon build up on piston. I've looked all over the head for cracks from over heating. I'm about to look again for hairline cracks that are extremely difficult to see. my buddy helping me said to order rings in case they are letting oil pass thru he also said get a new head gasket.. I'm looking at water in oil first and I'm not ordering rings. I haven't checked the oil cooler to see if it's defective yet. I'm just hoping someone had a similar problem. my only problem so far has been having to change the spark plug every 100 miles with 93 octane run thru it.
-
By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
-
By Isaac
I have a 2013 odes dominator when I get in it. It ideals fine but when you give it gas it bogs and goes and bogs and won’t go passed 30 can anyone help me
-
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.