Quantcast
Jump to content


Braking Systems - A dedicated Thread

rocmoc

By rocmoc
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

rocmoc Grand Master

rocmoc

Posted
Posted

My e-brake has never work correctly so I am turning them into turning brakes like I had on my dune buggies. For a e-brake I am going to install a micro-lock.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
Posted

My e-brake has never work correctly so I am turning them into turning brakes like I had on my dune buggies. For a e-brake I am going to install a micro-lock.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

My e-brake worked excellently in the beginning and would hold me on hills while I got the engine revved up and the clutch engaged and is something my injuries require me to have.

The Mico-Lock system would be nice be expensive, http://www.tsmmfg.com/mico_hydraulic_brake_lock.htm I've driven trucks with the Mico system and liked it, but looks like too much work and money for me, but still a good idea.

Then there is Lenny's set up, I'll let him detail that.

Kinarfi.

Guest Lenny

Guest Lenny

Posted
Posted

My e-brake worked excellently in the beginning and would hold me on hills while I got the engine revved up and the clutch engaged and is something my injuries require me to have.

The Mico-Lock system would be nice be expensive, http://www.tsmmfg.com/mico_hydraulic_brake_lock.htm I've driven trucks with the Mico system and liked it, but looks like too much work and money for me, but still a good idea.

Then there is Lenny's set up, I'll let him detail that.

Kinarfi.

I could see using two micro-locks, one for each back side and hook it up to work with both brakes on each side. Hook the 2 brakes together off the one line like I did on each side. Set up the steering handles so you can pull the right or left for turning or both at the same time for an e-brake. Then when you use your foot brake you would have double the stoping power on each side. It's not that hard to put another set of calipers on the front either. If your in 4x4, then your e-brake would hold all four wheels. If you remember, I have 2 calipers on each wheel for regular foot braking and my e-brake is now a disc on the front drive shaft like they used to do years ago. It's nice having brakes that I don't have to bear down on to stop on a steep hill. Having the e-brake on the drive shaft is nice because it goes through the differentials which give a 2.15:1 power increase making it possible to lock up all four wheels and skid to a stop on gravel. For you Kinarfi, I could see using an old parking brake, the ones that use to stick out below the dash with a T-handle. They used a cable which you could tie into the regular brake pedal to give you 3 ways to apply the brakes. By foot or pulling up with the handle turned so it doesn't stay up for use on hills while holding clutch and just pulled up for parking. Should be easy to find in a junk yard.

Lenny

rocmoc Grand Master

rocmoc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I am going to use a dune buggy hand brake setup.

I believe the E-brake in the old VW is part of the central tube. If my memory is correct we use to cut them off in the early days of dune buggies.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
Posted

Guess I shouldn't been surprised, House Of Hose wouldn't fix my brake line, flat refused even though they could have, "LIABILITY" and for them to build a new one was $75.00 so I looked at http://www.jmcmotors.us/my_account.php and it was only $29.21, brake pads were $11.40, per set I hope, ORDERED!!

Now to build some sort of visual, audio alarm for when I leave the brake on.

Kinarfi

My e-brake worked excellently in the beginning and would hold me on hills while I got the engine revved up and the clutch engaged and is something my injuries require me to have.

Kinarfi.

Well I got my brake line in from JMC and got it installed with a new set of shoes and now it seems to doing it job again. Not sure how others bleed their brake systems, but when I had my airplane and bought brakes for it, they came with Plews oil can and some polyurethane tubing and you pumped fluid into the brake until it came out the master cylinder, it worked good because it was all uphill.

Found that can and cleaned it out and made a cap for the reservoir with gasket and put a fitting in the top and started pumping fluid with the oil can until it came out the brakes and it was as solid as it could be, no sponginess!!! The only thing better that I know of would be a brake bleeder pot. I remember pumping brakes until it got firm, someone else would bleed until the peddle hit floor, close the bleeder, pump, bleed, close, pump, bleed, close,........ until solid. Definitely took two people. This was doable solo and worked great and easily.

Kinarfi

Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
Posted

Here's an idea for someone with machining abilities, no names, but if you take a set of calipers and machine a threaded lever into the back of the caliper that is attached to lever. you have your independent left or right braking set up. You'd need a right hand thread on the left and a left hand thread on the right.

Kinarfi

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • staind
      Joyner R2 2008 800cc ECM code reader Lite or OBD port install
      By staind
      Looking for information on installing a OBD port or a lite to read codes in ECM. 
      I can not find a OBD port or a lite to read codes on this R2 with 800cc. 
      I have code readers and adapters for most ATV's. From what I've found so far. They don't have a connection for to read codes. I may be wrong. That's why I'm asking. 
      This R2 has had new IAC, TPS, MAP, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump replaced. This was done by neighbor to try to stop surging. It still surges on start up and then settles down. But once you hit the accelerator it revs up to 2000+ rpm and stays till you block off IAC port in throttle body with finger. Once you do that it once again settles down and idles perfectly.
      I want to know what the ECM is reading to help dio it.
      This joyner is the first one I've run across. Well second one in a week. (my neighbors 2 of them) The other was a trooper with the 1100cc chery motor that had been setting for years. After cleaning up the fuse box connections. It runs like a top. Had to replace all gages with aftermarket gages. Water, oil, gas, amp. Only problem one was the water temp using original sending unit. Had to install 150 ohm resistor on the input wire to get it to read correctly + - 5 degrees. Close enough. Gas sending unit was/is for a boat tank 6" tall. All SS so it should last forever. 
      thanks Dan D. aka staind
    • Jim Kessell
      EH65 spitting fuel from breather hose into air filter.
      By Jim Kessell
      2005 American Landmaster
      EH65 Subaru Robins
      spits fuel from breather hose into the air cleaner and then down into carb.  What’s causing this ??
    • Buck
      750 will not shift into gears
      By Buck
      My father-in-laws 750 hisun will not change gears unless he completely turns the motor off then shifts.  I thought it might be a brake problem but he thought clutch.  He took it to a jackleg down the road and he basically charged him $300 and did not fix a thing.  Any ideas would be useful because he really can’t afford throwing money at it.
    • BMurph
      Please help 2021 Axis 750 crew won't shift into gear and found milky oil on inspection
      By BMurph
      Hello everyone! I am new here and have no experience with UTVs but I am quickly getting some. I have a shifting problem where I can shift through all gears without the engine running but as soon as I start the engine I can not select a gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and yes the pin is being pulled to go into reverse if I was to try going into reverse. The shift lever does not move. I adjusted the linkage to get more accurate shifting with the engine off so I know those are now correct. I opened the shift lever housing to inspect the teeth on the gear and found this picture below. Why is this oil so milky looking? I assume with oil like this I'll need to replace the wet clutch as well but am not positive. Does anyone have any input into how to flush this system and get things shifting correctly? Thanks in advance for all the help!

    • Mike McDonald
      2014 Intimidator Brakes
      By Mike McDonald
      I have a 2014 Intimidator and need brake pads and calipers. The price for pads and rotors are outrageous through the dealer. I have heard Intimidator used the brake assembly from a compact car when first building these UTVs. 
      • Can anyone tell me of a less expensive source to buy brakes for Intimidators from,  or
      • Can anyone furnish information on what make and model vehicle Intimidator  used their brakes from?
      Thanks so much for any support you can provide me on this topic. 
       
      Mike

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...