Braking Systems - A dedicated Thread
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By Jim Kessell
2005 American Landmaster
EH65 Subaru Robins
spits fuel from breather hose into the air cleaner and then down into carb. What’s causing this ??
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By Greg Kilgore
This started back in the summer.
While on a ride with the wife. Applied the foot brake and the pedal went to the floor. Thought the brake pads were gone. Ordered new pads. Removed the wheels to install new pads and they were in good shape.
So I bled all 4 brakes cylinders. Got thin dirty fluid out. Almost like dirty water. No air. Got a good pedal.
Then about a month later, same thing, brake pedal back on the floor. Could pump the pedal and get a little pedal back. Bled again and finally got a good pedal. The fluid was nasty like before. No air. And the fluid was topped off in the reservoir before I started the bleeding process.
Now same thing. Pedal going back to the floor. Reservoir still full. I'm thinking the master cylinder is bypassing. So have a new on on the way and will report back.
What do you guys think. Could it be something else.
I used one of those hand operated vacuum pumps to pull the fluid out of the reservoir when I was bleeding before. First time I've used one. And after a small amount of fluid filled the catch bottle. Seemed like the vacuum pump quit working. Had to close the bleed screw. Pump the brake one time. The start the vacuum thing again.
Again just wondering what you guys think. Using DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluid. Whatever I can get at a reasonable price at parts store.
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By Fishing Wiskers
Top speed is 30mph on flat grass ground. but it will not go up minor hills forward or reverse without a runing start. If you start at the bottom of the hill machine will stop about 1/2 way up. I have the engine cover off and you can see the outside of the drive clutch will stop spining., and the engine does bogg down some. Dosent matter if engine is cold or warmed up. Seat belts are connected. Fuel is clean
I am the 5th shop to look at it and different shops have replaced the fuel pump, injector, ign coil, wet clutch,
I am not sure how to check for codes with this machine, can anyone teall me how to do it?
Compression with hot eng is 145, valves adjusted to .005 with a cold engine. Dash shows 426 hours
I am not convinced it's an engine problem
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By Browner010
Recently I had an overheating issue on my 2022 Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun UT550) and to check to make sure it was fixed I took it out for a ride around the block. After a couple cycles on the LED coolant meter, I took it for a couple mile ride and on my way back I heard a loud metallic snap then a grinding noise. It was still able to move under its own power but very slowly. I was about 2 blocks from the truck so 'I limped it home and up onto the trailer. I know I need to tear it apart and look for what broke, but anyone have a guess as to where to start? I'm seriously getting tired of this damn machine! 750 miles on it and already replaced the belt, wet clutch, primary clutch, clutch roller weights among a few other things. Seriously, this friggin machine has spent more time on the lift than on the road. I thought I bought this new because it was from the owner of a tractor supply, but he registered it under the stores name making me the 2nd owner voiding any and all warranties.
Any Ideas what to look for would be appreciated.
Thanks
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By FGT
QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.
EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.
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