Quantcast
Jump to content


Handling question


Recommended Posts

Posted

Today while out doing some suspension testing, I was running at about 30mph along a rough gravelly road. I say gravelly because the rocks were up to maybe 1-1/2" in diameter with a hard surface below them. I came up on a turn that forced me to brake down and steer into it. All 4 wheels started to skid some but nothing locked up. General wheel to road traction was fine but then the rear started to swing around on me. Probably got to maybe within 15 or 20 degrees of sliding completely sideways. Started to think "so this is how you roll it". The front seemed to hang in good and tracked where I steered it. The front held tight while the back felt light on traction. I realize that the loose gravel made the situation worse but both front and rear were on the same gravel. My question is, is this caused from over steer and do I need to lessen my tow in or is it because the front took more then it's share of the weight on braking and if so how do I correct that. Afterwords, I played a bit more and found that the rear would get loose when braking hard on gravel while turning. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Glad I was strapped in good. As my suspension gets better, I find myself going faster in rough stuff and some things that are not scarry at slower speeds show up a bit more concerning. With more experience at faster speeds I'll learn how to deal with these situations a little different. I guess the only way you learn what it feel like when something starts to go wrong is to have something go wrong.

Lenny

Posted

Lenny, my T2 does similar on gravel roads but I've just attributed it to the fact that I'm running on MudLites. On any other surface handling is fine but on gravel it's like I'm steering in the general direction I want to go. Although I've gotten quite good at sliding through corners like a pro, rolling over is always on my mind. I was hoping that switching to truck tires would alleviate the problem but I've not done that yet (mud it far too much fun). What type of tires are you using?

Barry

Posted

Lenny, my T2 does similar on gravel roads but I've just attributed it to the fact that I'm running on MudLites. On any other surface handling is fine but on gravel it's like I'm steering in the general direction I want to go. Although I've gotten quite good at sliding through corners like a pro, rolling over is always on my mind. I was hoping that switching to truck tires would alleviate the problem but I've not done that yet (mud it far too much fun). What type of tires are you using?

Barry

, newb here,, rough idea on what air pressure to run in tires,, & shocks? mainly gravel,& dirt roads & trails, not much sand or rock climbing,
Posted

Lenny, that's how we drive it in New Zealand and gravel is your friend when you do it right. On the tarmac(not with the mudlites), you would have to drift it to stop it rolling but on gravel you just power up and point your noise where you want to go. Of course most of the time this means crossing the wheel up, if you know what I mean. The Trooper behaves like a Rally car and that's just one more reason to like it. The secret is to set yourself up for the corner and use your pedals to steer more than your steering wheel and don't brake in the corner, keep the pedal to the metal. Like Rhys Millen in this video, which showcases the difference between gravel and tarmac beautify.

By the way, this is one of the best driving your see and he is a Kiwi.

Quig, I have 16lbs in my tyres have left the shocks as they were set and do your kind of terrain plus mud, lots of mud. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention mud, heaps and heaps of mud.

Cheers Mike.

  • Like 1
Posted

Lenny, a couple things will do what you are saying, but it sounds like your springs might be a little soft on the front letting weight transfer off the back when you get into heavy braking, the other thing is you have to much brake in the front but i do not think that is it. Try rasing the front end and see if it changes it at all, that would give you a idea if that is what is going on.

Posted

Lenny, that's how we drive it in New Zealand and gravel is your friend when you do it right. On the tarmac(not with the mudlites), you would have to drift it to stop it rolling but on gravel you just power up and point your noise where you want to go. Of course most of the time this means crossing the wheel up, if you know what I mean. The Trooper behaves like a Rally car and that's just one more reason to like it. The secret is to set yourself up for the corner and use your pedals to steer more than your steering wheel and don't brake in the corner, keep the pedal to the metal. Like Rhys Millen in this video, which showcases the difference between gravel and tarmac beautify.

Quig, I have 16lbs in my tyres have left the shocks as they were set and do your kind of terrain plus mud, lots of mud. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention mud, heaps and heaps of mud.

Cheers Mike.

Wow, great video. Reminded me of when I raced motorcycles, no motocross then. I was on a TT track, after the the long straight away, it crested over and ran down hill following a closing radius turn to the left. I'd be wide open down the straight and as I crested, I would hit the compression release with a little light front braking. This would scrub off some speed and cause the rear wheel to begin to drift out as the bike began to cross up. Then begin to roll the throttle on and power slide the corner. Like poetry, what a rush. With my Trooper yeaterday the corner snuck up on me, they had done some earth moving and the corner sort of went over a berm into some rough stuff if I missed it. I could of went straight and rode it out letting the suspension do the work but I felt I could make the turn. I just didn't expect the rear to come around and when it did, I figured if I hit the pedal, that it would have spun. Sliding off the trail into the rough in this condition didn't look good. Haven't got the feel of a lot of power sliding yet and stay shy of rolling. I thought it was going to go over but it stayed real stable. BeeZee62, I'm running 31x10.5-15 Micky Thompson Baja Claw tires at about 10-12 pounds pressure. In the sand, I'll drop them down to 8-10. They do a good job on dirt, rocks and in the sand. The fun starts when you get a little dangerous.

Lenny

Posted

Lenny, a couple things will do what you are saying, but it sounds like your springs might be a little soft on the front letting weight transfer off the back when you get into heavy braking, the other thing is you have to much brake in the front but i do not think that is it. Try rasing the front end and see if it changes it at all, that would give you a idea if that is what is going on.

Thanks for the insight. I will give that a try. Good to hear from you. You always stay so busy that it's a treat to have you stop and post once in a while, Thanks

Lenny

PS: You mean I have to stiffen my front and go do that turn again that scared me the first time.

Posted

Lenny, I see what you mean now. The Trooper can be tail happy in 2wd and on the marbles in 4wd it is the same, but regardless as soon as you put the anchors on as you start to slide, with or without tweaking the T2s setup, you will loose more control. If you can pull it up in time then no harm done. I always try to power out of a bad saturation, but that is not 100% the answer. I grew up on metal roads and as soon as I got my first car this was our weekend entertainment. I had a near miss once when someone panicked so much just as I was heading into a notorious hairpin I slammed the brakes on and slide towards the outside of the corner and pulled up about five feet from a huge drop-off.

Flatbed, good to hear from you mate, howz that hotrod build coming on? I've sold my Z28, but might get another one to play around with sometime into he future but the kids have got to that stage where they have cars now so not a lot of room around here.

Cheers Mike.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Gorj
      I have had my E1 since late last summer and I have always noticed that the parking brake was weak or non existent. About a month or so after I purchased it I mentioned to the dealer that the parking brake did not function well. What I was expecting from the dealer, ' well bring it in and we will correct the issue.' What I got was the typical dealer response, "it may just need to be adjusted." No shit!  Well I finally decided to adjust it. A very simple process need only two 10mm wrenches.  Open the bed, remove the pin holding the bed  to the strut and move the bad out of the way. Right in front of the electric motor is a brake disk.  That is the parking brake. It has a small set of brake pads that are actuated by a lever attached to parking brake cable.  There are two 10 mm nuts on the shaft to moves the pads. Release the inner nut and hold it in place while screwing in the outer nut - that is really a bolt. After screwing it in about one turn, tighten the other nut.  Check the parking brake. If it is holding when activated, then you are good, but if not, then you may have to turn the bolt another turn. Do not turn to far or you will lock it up.
    • By Michigan sport.
      I'm sure many of you are aware of Michigan's emergency brake requirement.  I'm wondering if anyone has a good solution. 
      Beyond paying the few fab places $$$$.. I'm curious is there another rear caliper with e brake style that would interchange with slight mods to  the Maverick sport rear mounting bracket?
    • By JSwearer
      Does anyone have any suggestions for aftermarket shocks.  I have a T-Boss 550 and took it riding in some rough trails and the stock suspension was uncomfortably rough.
      Thanks
    • By Kingfish
      The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle.  It never rode great, but now I feel every  crack in the road.  I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff.  I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order.  Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate?  I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
    • eManualonline.com Save 30% OFF Sitewide, Use code: XMAS30
    • By felo72
      Hello all. I purchased a brand new Massimo Buck 250 EFI in June for our farm and I've had the parking brake fail on me twice. I have approximately 250 miles on the vehicle. The first time was less than a month after receiving the UTV. We all of a sudden lost brake pressure and it would not start. I tracked the issue back to the parking brake. Upon removing the chain cover, I noticed the brake pad was missing and the caliper piston was touching the rotor. I found a set of brake pads online and replaced them myself. It's worked for several months and just happened again. Seems like a design flaw. I'm reaching out to see if there's an upgrade option available, or if I should replace the entire caliper with the brake pads? Thanks in advance for any advise.
      I submitted a warranty claim, so I'll keep this updated with what Massimo replies.
      When I replaced the brake pads the first time, back in July, my Son made a video on YouTube to show the unique caliper design. Here's a link if you wanted to check it out:
       


×
×
  • Create New...