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By Jacob E freeman
I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 I bought brand new almost 2 years ago the first month I had it the exhaust broke and burnt the spark plug wire in two that was a recall so the dealership installed the new one it had a different design and it bolted up to the bottom two plugs below the spark plug the dealership said they had to Adjust the exhaust valves I get the machine back thanking everything is good now wrong not even a week after I get it back the timing chain tensioner comes apart inside the motor I take it back to the dealership They put one on I get the machine back thanking everything is good but then just like before not even a week goes by when I was riding the Machine automatically quits going come to find out the wet clutch was burned up the primary clutch head stripped off of the splines I get that fixed and then it overheats I take it back they bleed the air out of the coolant they bring it back to me the same day that I get it back it overheats again I take it back they temporarily fix it again just enough to let the warranty run out and now the machine has been to multiple different mechanics I have had them try to bleed the air out they have stood it up on its end I have had the water pump changed I have had the fan hooked to a switch so I could leave it on all the time but still almost 2 years later not even 200 hours on the machine and I cannot ride it The dealership will not take it back as a lemon I have tried I am at my wits end I have no clue what to try next
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By redneckred
I have a 2012 Bennche Bighorn 700X. I bought it used. It had been sitting in a field for several years untouched. I put a new sun gear in the shifter, new shifter linkage due to the old one having been patched, and a new battery (and of course fresh fuel). The machine cranked and ran beautifully. I had it over a year and then the machine quit running. As it would not stay cranked, I narrowed the problem down to a bad IAC valve. I replaced it and it ran as good as new/old. Fast forward, the machine started to act like reverse wasn't catching and would not always back up when in gear. Then forward quit. I assumed a bad CVT belt and got one. Started removing the bolts from the cover and (3) just turn in the housing without coming loose. (2) are on the bottom, so very little room to do anything with them. I tried cranking the machine again to see the belt move since I can move the cover enough to see the belt and now the machine will not crank. It turns over fine. It gets gas to the injector and has spark. I can spray cleaner down her throat and she would run until it ran out. I have replaced the IAC twice and put a new injector with no change. I went out and put the old injector back in to see if that made any difference and, well, it did. I tried to crank the machine and the starter is stuck trying to turn the machine over even with the key off. I have to disconnect the battery to stop it. Before I shoot this thing, what am I missing? Is this an ECM problem or something else I am not seeing? Been dealing with these Gremlins for over a month now and weeds are starting to overtake the motor due to it not moving. I would love to get the thing running first and any ideas of getting those CVT cover bolts out would be extremely helpful. Thanks in advance.
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By REDfletching
Spent today at a Honda dealership looking at their 520 side by side, then on the way home past our Lowes noticed they had several new UTVs on site, so we U-turned and ducked in there. We were impressed that all that came for $9,999 metal whole length skid plate, nice sized bed, roof, windshield, side mirrors, winch, upgrade looking tires… all of which would have added thousands of dollars to an already expensive Honda 520. Now Honda does have a great reputation from my trusted UTV experienced buddy, so it has that going for it.
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