Dave needed master electrical switch Key
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By Gorj
I am going to replace the batteries in my E1. I am not interested in the high cost Lithium or the expensive 6 volt dry batteries. I am considering four 12 volt deep charge marine batteries. I have a source for 810 amp units for about $100 each. I have no worries about reprograming the charger because it went out a few years ago and I replaced it with generic golf cart charger. When I decide to do this, I'll keep you posted on the results.
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By Matthew Smith
2013 Bennche Bighorn 700 EFI
I just picked up this project that I was told would crank, but not start. This is what I’ve figured out so far….
I installed a new battery and get all dash lights, head lights, and brake lights on when turning the ignition on. Fuel pump even turns on. It does not crank with the key, but would when I jumped the starter solenoid, so I replaced it…..no change.
Figured I’d check for spark and compression while I was dorking around. Compression is 150 psi, but there is no spark. Replaced the spark plug… no change.
So, is my new starter solenoid bad? Could it be the brake or gear position switches even though the brakes and neutral lights come on? Not sure where to go from here.
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By SteveS
While driving the MSU 800, it runs good but it lately it will not go over 20 MPH. The side by side will hesitate when it reaches 21 MPH, but it will run good under 20 MPH. What is the issue?
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Gorj
I am into five years of ownership of my electric side by side and I am noticing some deterioration of power. Although I measured the voltage at over 49 volts, I believe the batteries are beginning to fail. I charge them about twice a week. Last year the charger went out and I replaced it with a 48 volt golf cart charger. What has been your experience with the batteries?
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