Quantcast
Jump to content


  

2 members have voted

  1. 1. Would you be interested in a more accurate Fuel Gauge Sender

  2. 2. What's the most you would pay for one?

    • $25
    • $50
    • $75
      0
    • $100 or more
      0


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have started building an electronic capacitive fuel sender for my Trooper. I was wondering if others would like to have one made for them. The hardest part is the capacitor, it has to be hand made, Mine is made of two sheets of aluminum, 7" X 16-18" and 6 3/4" X 14" and rolled up together separated by 2 pieces of bird netting, that stuff you put over your fruit tree to keep the birds out of your fruit. I checked the readings as I filled a container with gas and the change was quite linear and repeatable. I believe that if you were to start with an almost empty tank, you could add a gallon of gas and mark you gauge, add another gallon and mark your gauge, etc, etc. I plan to put my sender in the middle of my tank which will keep it from changing as I go up hill, down hill or on level ground and the design can be made to not show sloshing. If you think you may be interested, let me know. Before you ask, I have no idea what it may cost and if you want, I think it will fit into the existing sender hole instead of putting it in the center.

Kinarfi

Posted

Thanks but I am passing because I am getting rid of my gas gauge entirely. Since my gas tank in the front, I am going the way of an old tractor. Moving the filler tube to the top of the tank. Will just open hood, open fill cap & look inside.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

EDIT Kinarfi -- Sounds like the most fail safe method available, If we had resettable trip odometers, That would be a way to go, just so many miles in a tank of fuel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Jim Kessell
      2005 American Landmaster
      EH65 Subaru Robins
      spits fuel from breather hose into the air cleaner and then down into carb.  What’s causing this ??
    • By Nutcase
      I have a Joyner Trooper 1100 4 place that has been sitting for a number of years. I have everything taken care of but i can't get the fuel through the injectors. Fuel pump puts full pressure on them but they don't turn on or spray fuel. Any ideas?
    • By Jacob E freeman
      I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 I bought brand new almost 2 years ago the first month I had it the exhaust broke and burnt the spark plug wire in two that was a recall so the dealership installed the new one it had a different design and it bolted up to the bottom two plugs below the spark plug the dealership said they had to Adjust the exhaust valves I get the machine back thanking everything is good now wrong not even a week after I get it back the timing chain tensioner comes apart inside the motor I take it back to the dealership They put one on I get the machine back thanking everything is good but then just like before not even a week goes by when I was riding the Machine automatically quits going come to find out the wet clutch was burned up the primary clutch head stripped off of the splines I get that fixed and then  it overheats I take it back they bleed the air out of the coolant they bring it back to me the same day that I get it back it overheats again I take it back they temporarily fix it again just enough to let the warranty run out and now the machine has been to multiple different mechanics I have had them try to bleed the air out they have stood it up on its end I have had the water pump changed I have had the fan hooked to a switch so I could leave it on all the time but still almost 2 years later not even 200 hours on the machine and I cannot ride it The dealership will not take it back as a lemon I have tried I am at my wits end I have no clue what to try next
    • By mark walkom
      the regen braking on my e1 has stopped working unless (for eg) I am going down a hill in low and it's slowing things down to stick to the 10kph limit. when I drive and take my foot off the accelerator it's not initiating the regen to slow things down and instead just coasts at whatever speed it is at, or speeds up as the regen is not limiting it. the brake lights work, so it's probably not a fault with the sensor on the brake pedal
       
      hoping someone else might be able to provide some suggestions on things to check, as the mob that I bought it off seem to have gone silent on me
    • By Kingfish
      The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle.  It never rode great, but now I feel every  crack in the road.  I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff.  I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order.  Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate?  I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
×
×
  • Create New...