Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I was in San Felipe running the river bed with about 2 feet of water, had a great time mudding with the kids. Got back to the condo and did my best to clean the T4 up with just a regular garden hose. The next morning I figured I would get out on the beach with the water resided and run down to the dunes. As I was going donw to the beach I heard some electrical whining, didn't think much of it until I went to use 4 wheel drive, and it wasn't there. I started thinking I did here something like that when I was cleaning it also the night before, but it stopped. As I think about it more it sounds like a selector switch or something trying to go back and forth repeatedly. Not really sure what problem I have. Haven't taken it our for some time now, so battery is dead, but was still able to us it just in 2 wheel drive with no other problems.

Could it be easy as a loose connector?

Thanks

Casey

Posted

Detbohica A few of us have had that problem it's the 4 wheel drive actuator. I put a manual 4x4 lever in mine silver bullit sells them his name is Rick (928) 344-2117 Detbohica look in webshot in album trooperfloks I have some pics in there

Posted

You can fix it yourself. Take off the 4wd locker and open up. There is a pin facing forward from the electric locker so pull towards the rear when disconnecting from the Diff. Clean and spray gears and electrics with lots of Lithium Grease. Also spray around the seal before closing and screwing tight. This will help to keep the water out next time. I did this two years ago and is still going strong after fixing. You might find the long gear has popped up, inspect and push down into place. It could be stripped if you have left it running for to long. If this is the case then a new unit or a manual replacement will be needed.

Cheers Mike.

Posted

I was in San Felipe running the river bed with about 2 feet of water, had a great time mudding with the kids. Got back to the condo and did my best to clean the T4 up with just a regular garden hose. The next morning I figured I would get out on the beach with the water resided and run down to the dunes. As I was going donw to the beach I heard some electrical whining, didn't think much of it until I went to use 4 wheel drive, and it wasn't there. I started thinking I did here something like that when I was cleaning it also the night before, but it stopped. As I think about it more it sounds like a selector switch or something trying to go back and forth repeatedly. Not really sure what problem I have. Haven't taken it our for some time now, so battery is dead, but was still able to us it just in 2 wheel drive with no other problems.

Could it be easy as a loose connector?

Thanks

Casey

You can fix it yourself. Take off the 4wd locker and open up. There is a pin facing forward from the electric locker so pull towards the rear when disconnecting from the Diff. Clean and spray gears and electrics with lots of Lithium Grease. Also spray around the seal before closing and screwing tight. This will help to keep the water out next time. I did this two years ago and is still going strong after fixing. You might find the long gear has popped up, inspect and push down into place. It could be stripped if you have left it running for to long. If this is the case then a new unit or a manual replacement will be needed.

Cheers Mike.

I agree with Brostar, when mine failed, I took it apart and cleaned the circuit board with a tooth brush and denatured alcohol, wire brushed the outside of the motor and painted it, inspected every thing, lubed it and put silicone on the mating surfaces to seal out the moisture, The thing is designed to fail in the 2 wheel drive mode and corrosion will cause it to fail that way and cleaning will fix that. Look for circuit board traces that have corroded excessively.

If you can't get it working, PM me.

Kinarfi

Another Idea - Smear a light coating of silicone on the circuit board to protect it from corrosion.

Posted

I agree with Brostar, when mine failed, I took it apart and cleaned the circuit board with a tooth brush and denatured alcohol, wire brushed the outside of the motor and painted it, inspected every thing, lubed it and put silicone on the mating surfaces to seal out the moisture, The thing is designed to fail in the 2 wheel drive mode and corrosion will cause it to fail that way and cleaning will fix that. Look for circuit board traces that have corroded excessively.

If you can't get it working, PM me.

Kinarfi

Another Idea - Smear a light coating of silicone on the circuit board to protect it from corrosion.

Correction, it is designed to default to the four wheel drive mode. This way you can always get back even if in a tight spot. The pin in the differential that engages or disengages the 4 wheel drive is spring loaded to the out (four wheel drive) position. However if your in two wheel drive, and the actuator quits working, it will be stuck there. Then to get it to go to the default four wheel drive, you have to remove the little mechanical drive to release the pin.

Lenny

EDIT - KINARFI -- Lenny is correct, If I remember correctly, it also faults electrically to 4 wheel drive,

Thank Lenny

Kinarfi

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By downseast
      Hi everyone
      Recently purchased a 2020 T-Boss 410 in what appears to be good condition
      First time with this machine – I also have a diesel Kawasaki Mule which so far seems a better machine
      It didn’t start and idle well particularly from cold when I got it and sudden take off ( now solved with new clutch parts ) was all or nothing !
      I have replaced the idle valve, throttle position sensor, had the injector professionally checked ( ok) and also the pressure sensor this is a fuel injection engine, also plug and lead etc!
      It still doesn’t run well and when starting I have to hold revs for a while as it wont idle but stall, thereafter its better and I have rebooted the ecu which has improved it
      When I go to start it clicks as if there is a hydraulic lock and wont return after two or three attempts it then does turn over and start bit I need to give it a bit of throttle to start – is this normal ?
      Is there adjustment for the air idle valve ?
      The engine seems rough and with vibration compared to other engines I have been used to but some say this is normal?
      I haven’t changed the Lambda sensor yet, anyone know how much difference this might make ( I have a new Bosch universal to fit )
      Any advice very much appreciated, thanks
    • By hetovi
      Hey everyone,
      I’m in the market for a UTV windshield that can withstand extreme conditions, including high winds, dust, and off-road impacts.
      I’ve seen a lot of options out there, but I’m unsure which one will provide the best protection and durability.
      Does anyone have experience with windshields that excel in these environments? Are there specific brands or materials you recommend?
      I’m particularly interested in options that offer both durability and clarity.
      Any tips or personal experiences would be greatly appreciated!
    • By Jim Kessell
      2005 American Landmaster
      EH65 Subaru Robins
      spits fuel from breather hose into the air cleaner and then down into carb.  What’s causing this ??
    • By Greg Kilgore
      I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can.
       
      I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle. 
      We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job.
       
      Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home. 
       
      Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good.
      But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy.
       
      Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.
    • By allinone
      Recently purchased 2nd hand not going Crossfire GT400 (Australian branded name?) 2020 model.  Has some issues what would be the best forum to pose questions.
      Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...