Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I was in San Felipe running the river bed with about 2 feet of water, had a great time mudding with the kids. Got back to the condo and did my best to clean the T4 up with just a regular garden hose. The next morning I figured I would get out on the beach with the water resided and run down to the dunes. As I was going donw to the beach I heard some electrical whining, didn't think much of it until I went to use 4 wheel drive, and it wasn't there. I started thinking I did here something like that when I was cleaning it also the night before, but it stopped. As I think about it more it sounds like a selector switch or something trying to go back and forth repeatedly. Not really sure what problem I have. Haven't taken it our for some time now, so battery is dead, but was still able to us it just in 2 wheel drive with no other problems.

Could it be easy as a loose connector?

Thanks

Casey

Posted

Detbohica A few of us have had that problem it's the 4 wheel drive actuator. I put a manual 4x4 lever in mine silver bullit sells them his name is Rick (928) 344-2117 Detbohica look in webshot in album trooperfloks I have some pics in there

Posted

You can fix it yourself. Take off the 4wd locker and open up. There is a pin facing forward from the electric locker so pull towards the rear when disconnecting from the Diff. Clean and spray gears and electrics with lots of Lithium Grease. Also spray around the seal before closing and screwing tight. This will help to keep the water out next time. I did this two years ago and is still going strong after fixing. You might find the long gear has popped up, inspect and push down into place. It could be stripped if you have left it running for to long. If this is the case then a new unit or a manual replacement will be needed.

Cheers Mike.

Posted

I was in San Felipe running the river bed with about 2 feet of water, had a great time mudding with the kids. Got back to the condo and did my best to clean the T4 up with just a regular garden hose. The next morning I figured I would get out on the beach with the water resided and run down to the dunes. As I was going donw to the beach I heard some electrical whining, didn't think much of it until I went to use 4 wheel drive, and it wasn't there. I started thinking I did here something like that when I was cleaning it also the night before, but it stopped. As I think about it more it sounds like a selector switch or something trying to go back and forth repeatedly. Not really sure what problem I have. Haven't taken it our for some time now, so battery is dead, but was still able to us it just in 2 wheel drive with no other problems.

Could it be easy as a loose connector?

Thanks

Casey

You can fix it yourself. Take off the 4wd locker and open up. There is a pin facing forward from the electric locker so pull towards the rear when disconnecting from the Diff. Clean and spray gears and electrics with lots of Lithium Grease. Also spray around the seal before closing and screwing tight. This will help to keep the water out next time. I did this two years ago and is still going strong after fixing. You might find the long gear has popped up, inspect and push down into place. It could be stripped if you have left it running for to long. If this is the case then a new unit or a manual replacement will be needed.

Cheers Mike.

I agree with Brostar, when mine failed, I took it apart and cleaned the circuit board with a tooth brush and denatured alcohol, wire brushed the outside of the motor and painted it, inspected every thing, lubed it and put silicone on the mating surfaces to seal out the moisture, The thing is designed to fail in the 2 wheel drive mode and corrosion will cause it to fail that way and cleaning will fix that. Look for circuit board traces that have corroded excessively.

If you can't get it working, PM me.

Kinarfi

Another Idea - Smear a light coating of silicone on the circuit board to protect it from corrosion.

Posted

I agree with Brostar, when mine failed, I took it apart and cleaned the circuit board with a tooth brush and denatured alcohol, wire brushed the outside of the motor and painted it, inspected every thing, lubed it and put silicone on the mating surfaces to seal out the moisture, The thing is designed to fail in the 2 wheel drive mode and corrosion will cause it to fail that way and cleaning will fix that. Look for circuit board traces that have corroded excessively.

If you can't get it working, PM me.

Kinarfi

Another Idea - Smear a light coating of silicone on the circuit board to protect it from corrosion.

Correction, it is designed to default to the four wheel drive mode. This way you can always get back even if in a tight spot. The pin in the differential that engages or disengages the 4 wheel drive is spring loaded to the out (four wheel drive) position. However if your in two wheel drive, and the actuator quits working, it will be stuck there. Then to get it to go to the default four wheel drive, you have to remove the little mechanical drive to release the pin.

Lenny

EDIT - KINARFI -- Lenny is correct, If I remember correctly, it also faults electrically to 4 wheel drive,

Thank Lenny

Kinarfi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Greg Kilgore
      I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can.
       
      I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle. 
      We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job.
       
      Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home. 
       
      Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good.
      But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy.
       
      Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.
    • By Jim Kessell
      2005 American Landmaster
      EH65 Subaru Robins
      spits fuel from breather hose into the air cleaner and then down into carb.  What’s causing this ??
    • By PossumTruck
      Greetings,
      I have a client that wants me to install a heater of some sort to aid in cold weather starting (she uses it at her business, has had issues starting the last few days in sub-zero). I would prefer a coolant heater to a pan heater (silicone pad), but I cant for the life of me find the diameter of the coolant hoses. Heck, I'm not even sure if it would work as well in this application given how long the hose is compared to tractors and trucks I have installed them in. 
      Any advice you could give me would be GREATLY appreciated. 
    • eManualonline.com Save 30% OFF Sitewide, Use code: XMAS30
    • By Hutch
      Okay everyone, need some help here. I got my 2014 Bennche Bighorn 700 from my father inlaw. He has had it since new and as far as I know never had any problems with it until recently. It began with it being hard to start and having to give it some throttle for it to start up. Then it wouldn't stay running once it did start. If you go to start it, it will fire right off and only run for a split second and then die. If you give it some throttle it will start and stay running as long as your foot is on the pedal. While it's running its pretty rough and backfires. Here is a list of everything I've done so far. Initially I checked compression and it was low. I changed the cylinder, piston and rings. Took the head apart cleaned and laped the valves. Checked timing a few times. Adjusted the valves. New spark plug. Checked the air filter, it was fine. New battery. Changed the fuel pump because of a broken fitting. Changed the fuel filter, lines and fuel injector. Dumped the old fuel and put new in. Changed the air idle control, TPS, MAP sensor, Voltage Regulator, ECU and harness. I was getting codes 31, 107, 113 and 122 on the display. Once I changed the ECU no more codes have been displayed but still have the same issues. All fuses look good and as far as I can tell Grounds are good unless there are some I can't find. I'm at a loss here. Not really sure where to go. Compression was better after everything I did but I don't remember the numbers. I'll have to check it again if someone thinks that could be the issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
×
×
  • Create New...