09 Prowler Differential Problem
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By Prepper
I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500. Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire. It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference). It has compression. I bought it not running, and no other information was available. It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours. It looks to be in very good shape. Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far. My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time. My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct? In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible. In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another). However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line. Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust. I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves.
Any thoughts ? Does this appear to be in proper valve time ? Have I missed anything simple ? Thanks in advance for your input.
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By Frank Mac67
My Axis 500 has been operating properly for almost a year with Zero problems. While I was away my granddaughter & friends were riding & playing in the snow. They went to the gas station to fill the tank & the vehicle would not start afterwards. I BEEN GIVING MULTIPLE STORIES: The ATV will not start. When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump come on but nothing happens other than that.
- NO CLICK - NO OTHER NOISE
*I CHECKED THE BATTERY 12.43volts
*I replaced the solenoid inside the battery compartment.
Seems the next electrical component in line has battery connections IN & motor connections OUT with 2 other small wires connectedaswell(I do not know the name of this component).
Can anyone help?
I can not find an ordered list of electronic components starting at the battery.
Can anyone help with this?
Thanks in advance for any help.
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By mcraigchr
Howdy y'all,
I have the service manual, but it leaves me with questions.
1) It is time to change the diff fluid. The service manual says 80w-90 for the rear and Dextron 3 ATF for the front! Is that correct? That seems odd to me.
2) The service manual also speaks of the need to change the transmission fluid but gives no detail about it. What needs to happen here?
3). The service manual also discusses changing the final drive fluid with 80-90 Hypoid. Is the final drive actually the tranny?
Any details about the changing of the fluid or what fluid to use ... or even other things that need to be changed that the manual does not mention would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Craig C.
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By Tejun
Neighbor rode their Coleman with the park brake apparently not fully released. Needless to say, things got pretty hot and even started smoking and the smoke was definitely gear oil smell. Looks like oil is coming from the area just behind the disc for the park break. Looking at parts diagram, there is an oring behind the nut/washer that attaches the flange to pinion shaft. I'm not finding anything on YT that would help with disassembly. Anyone have some experience with removing rear driveshaft ?
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By camojay
When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
Other info that may be useful:
1400 miles on it
Recently tightened the E brake
P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
20240817_133539_1.mp4
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