-
Similar Topics
-
By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
-
By SpaceGhost
As with any forum you join, there is a requirement for an obligatory introduction... and that seems fair. How else do you get that first post in there without jumping in with some stupid question right out of nowhere?
Hi. I'm Space Ghost. Well, not really, but that was my call sign on my last deployment before an IED made me non-deployable, and I an now retired/disabled, and living on my wonderful VA disability. I did almost 28 years in total between the Army, Army Reserve, and National Guard. 1 deployment with the Reserve (Desert Storm) and 3 with the Guard (1 pre, and 2 post 9/11)
Married (going on 30 years) one of each. (both out of the nest)
Just picked up my first side by side a couple days ago. A 2020 Can-Am Defender HD10 DPS 6x6.
It's in pretty good shape, but as you can probably tell, it's sitting a bit high. Former owner put a lifting collar on the shocks.
The good = almost 17" of ground clearance. (30" tires)
The bad = incredibly steep driveline angles, and a pretty stiff ride.
They will be coming off.
Other than that... clean as a pin and appears very well maintained.
Looking forward to seeing what this forum can bring, and hoping I can bring something in return.
-
By CRV
I’m need a couple parts. Diff. Lock Actuator mainly. But I would like to find a donor that maybe has bad motor or something along those lines.
if anyone has or knows of anything please holler at me
thanks Randy
-
By Rick A
I charged the battery reconnected everything but utv will not start and nothing comes on when key is turned. such as headlights, dash lights nothing.
-
-
By staind
Looking for information on installing a OBD port or a lite to read codes in ECM.
I can not find a OBD port or a lite to read codes on this R2 with 800cc.
I have code readers and adapters for most ATV's. From what I've found so far. They don't have a connection for to read codes. I may be wrong. That's why I'm asking.
This R2 has had new IAC, TPS, MAP, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump replaced. This was done by neighbor to try to stop surging. It still surges on start up and then settles down. But once you hit the accelerator it revs up to 2000+ rpm and stays till you block off IAC port in throttle body with finger. Once you do that it once again settles down and idles perfectly.
I want to know what the ECM is reading to help dio it.
This joyner is the first one I've run across. Well second one in a week. (my neighbors 2 of them) The other was a trooper with the 1100cc chery motor that had been setting for years. After cleaning up the fuse box connections. It runs like a top. Had to replace all gages with aftermarket gages. Water, oil, gas, amp. Only problem one was the water temp using original sending unit. Had to install 150 ohm resistor on the input wire to get it to read correctly + - 5 degrees. Close enough. Gas sending unit was/is for a boat tank 6" tall. All SS so it should last forever.
thanks Dan D. aka staind
-
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.