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By CYJSP2009
Dear Joyner owners
Any one who is looking for below Joyner parts please send email to casey from Leaf Asia ( please send to [email protected] and cc to casey2leafasia.biz & [email protected])
Currently, we have supply below parts:
1. cv axles, cv rebuild kits, cv boots
2. Differentials and differential ring and pinion set
3. Cables,
4. Brake parts
5. Engine parts
6. Other parts.
We will provide better price, close follow up ...
We can arrange productioni for parts that we can collect demands from customers
Have a good weekend
Casey / Leaf Asia
2023-11-17
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By BMurph
Hello everyone! I am new here and have no experience with UTVs but I am quickly getting some. I have a shifting problem where I can shift through all gears without the engine running but as soon as I start the engine I can not select a gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and yes the pin is being pulled to go into reverse if I was to try going into reverse. The shift lever does not move. I adjusted the linkage to get more accurate shifting with the engine off so I know those are now correct. I opened the shift lever housing to inspect the teeth on the gear and found this picture below. Why is this oil so milky looking? I assume with oil like this I'll need to replace the wet clutch as well but am not positive. Does anyone have any input into how to flush this system and get things shifting correctly? Thanks in advance for all the help!
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By Greg Kilgore
I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can.
I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle.
We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job.
Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home.
Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good.
But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy.
Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Kingfish
I have done a LiPo4 battery upgrade on my E1. I have reprogrammed the charge profile to #386. With the onboard BMS the controller cuts off all charge from the IC1200 when the battery reaches 100% to prevent overcharge. When this happens the charger begins flashing the yellow light and displays the error code 013 which is telling me the battery is no longer accepting a charge input which is as it should be. I hear a relay switching in and out every few seconds as the charger continues to try to reach the shutoff charge profile voltage. My question is will it cause any harm to the IC1200 to stay in this state for hours or maybe even days if I don't get out to unplug it? I used to leave the E1 plugged in all the time with the old Discover batteries.
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