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By Homeowner A
Have a Coleman UTV 400 that cranks, runs, drives well until it gets warm and is put under load. Light throttle or full throttle it doesn't bog, but it will cut out mid throttle if you move the pedal quicker than it seems to like for example when you're getting ready to go up a hill, but if you immediately floor it, it will do just fine and not cut out. It's random if and when it's going to do it, but is consistent in that it happens only when hot/full operating temperature. I've replaced the injector twice, same with the spark plug and tried different heat ranges (NGK 7,8 and 8 iridium), replaced the fuel pump, adjusted the valves, checked air filter which is like new, changed the oil, replaced the fuel filter. No check engine light. I don't have a code reader for this. Initially I thought it might have a head or head gasket issue as when I got it, the oil was over full, very runny like water milky and it was smoking. I've changed the oil since then twice to clear and clean everything out, and it seems to be good. Coolant stays the same level and so does oil with no changes in consistency or need for adding more. Had I think 7-9 miles when I got it and now has about 77. What should I try or consider next?
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By Rick A
I charged the battery reconnected everything but utv will not start and nothing comes on when key is turned. such as headlights, dash lights nothing.
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By Robbie Wyre
I'm working on a 2005 Cub Cadet side by side and I'm trying to remove the front two axles. I have a slide hammer puller on the inner joint and with all my strength they will not budge. Anyone have the same issues and is there something I'm missing or a trick of some sort to pull these out? Any suggestions please and thank you.
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By Prepper
I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500. Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire. It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference). It has compression. I bought it not running, and no other information was available. It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours. It looks to be in very good shape. Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far. My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time. My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct? In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible. In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another). However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line. Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust. I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves.
Any thoughts ? Does this appear to be in proper valve time ? Have I missed anything simple ? Thanks in advance for your input.
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By Cletus
I have a 2016 550, ive tryed the hisun website and seems i cant get parts there. I would like to add power steering, have seen a few "kits" on ebay
for the 750 not sure if its the same parts needed for the 550, there is a factory bracket already welded to the frame above the standard steering rack, is this to be used
to mount the eps motor? There is also a grey plug hanging just above the brake master cylinder, not sure if thats anything that needs to be used in the install.
Handy with wrenches so if i can find the parts installing it shouldnt be a problem, anyone done this upgrade, was it worth it?
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