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By Prepper
I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500. Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire. It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference). It has compression. I bought it not running, and no other information was available. It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours. It looks to be in very good shape. Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far. My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time. My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct? In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible. In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another). However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line. Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust. I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves.
Any thoughts ? Does this appear to be in proper valve time ? Have I missed anything simple ? Thanks in advance for your input.
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By Grant
I recently bought an axis 500 and it’s missing a box or something the plug is L shaped I’ve looked through the wiring diagrams and still can’t figure it out. The plug is located right near the battery housing
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By Flanman55
2007 Hisun HS700 will not crank. Replace the ignition switch. Same thing. Replaced solenoid by the battery same thing. Can jump it and it starts good across the solenoid posts. Ran a jumper wire from switch to solenoid. Nothing
can anyone suggest something else.
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By Croppy38
I own a 2017 Challenger 750 and had the key way snap at the flywheel. It was removed and cleaned up and then the flywheel was put back on with a new keyway. It snapped a second time so the flywheel and keyway both were replaced. They both seem to fit nice and tight. Put it all back together and it snapped again. I have no idea why it is doing this.
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By camojay
When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
Other info that may be useful:
1400 miles on it
Recently tightened the E brake
P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
20240817_133539_1.mp4
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