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By Dennis
I have a bulldog i bought from home depot in 2013. In the last season it started refusing to shift from neutral to either forward or reverse. I changed the trans axle fluid and made sure the cables were lubricated and free. With a lot of coaxing, I can sometimes get it to shift. once I start driving it, things improve until I let it set awhile. Any suggestion on where to go from here?
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By CYJSP2009
Dear Friends,
2022 Brand new Joyner CV Axles and CV Joint rebuild kits are comming
1. S650.03.02.02.00 ---Joyner 650 Commando Rear
2. TR1100.03.01.03.00 --- Joyner Trooper Front
3. TR1100.03.02.03.00 --- Joyner Trooper Rear
4. D650.03.02.02.00 --- Joyner 650 Sand Spider Rear Left
5. D650.03.02.03.00--- Joyner 650 Sand Spider Rear Right
6. SV800.03.02.01.00 --- Joyner 800 Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft Left
7. 14274 --- 650 ider rear left, rear right, 800 MV; 800Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft rear left and rear right outer cv joint rebuild kit
8. 15803 --- 650 Sand Spider rear left, rear right, 800 MV; 800Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft rear left and rear right outer cv joint rebuild kit
Attached are the part photos for reference.
Above parts are now on the way to USA, will be ready for inland delivery in middle of July.
Price: CV Axle: USD250/ Piece; CV Joint kit （without grease): USD110 send to door.
There will be special discount availabe for deals completed within July 2022.
Buy 1 piece: Get 5% discount,
Buy 2 pieces: get 10% discount.
Buy 3 pieces: get 15% discount,
Buy 4 and more than 4 pieces: get 20% discount.
Please kindly note Qty for each part is not big and it is hard to forcast when there will be next offer for these kind of products unless there is sufficient confirmed order qty for productioin arrangement.
Payment method: Payoneer payment link ( can pay through bank account or credit card) or Paypal ( [email protected]) . Payment commission paid by the buyer.
Interested parties, please contact [email protected].
Thanks
Good Luck
Casey / Leaf Asia
July-07-2022
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By Robbie Wyre
I'm working on a 2005 Cub Cadet side by side and I'm trying to remove the front two axles. I have a slide hammer puller on the inner joint and with all my strength they will not budge. Anyone have the same issues and is there something I'm missing or a trick of some sort to pull these out? Any suggestions please and thank you.
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By Troy C
I am new to forum but I have a 2012 polaris ranger 800 that motor went out and had it replaced and a year later here i am again so i am interested in converting it to EV . I am 72 but pretty active and live on 500 ac of land that part is in hills but most is in low land. I have no idea what i need or want so any advice will be appreciated. Thanks guys
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By Alien10
This is the E Brake, the one that is on the center drive shaft rotor below the dump bed. It is NOT related to any of the wheel disc brakes.
A few months after purchasing my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun) new, the E brake stopped working. Thought it had got water or oil on it as it gradually went from good holding to poor holding to literally NO holding. Been lazy using a piece of 4x4 to keep from rolling, but that's a pain. So, into the barn I went with work light to see what the heck is wrong. E brake pedal worked, but hit a hard stop and felt like the cable was froze up from rust but that was not the case. As it turns out the E brake is actuated by some kind of weird actuator lever/cam arrangement based upon the actuator lever being moved about 15 degrees from its fully released position. That makes the adjustment pretty critical with such little movement. Bolt "C" in the pic below is the adjustment bolt, held in place by lock nut "B". Working from below, here is what I did.
Removed the skid plate below the E brake. 6 bolts and washers. Next, looked at the brake pads which still had a good amount of pad left on them. Looked to be a little less than 1/8" each. Verified that the cable from the E brake pedal "A" actuated the E brake arm "D". Cable "A" pulls and released lever "D" in the direction of the curved arrow. Applied E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way up with no bare cable "A" showing. Released E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way down with bare cable "A" showing as in the pic below. That spring pulls the lever to fully released position. Note: I disconnected the release spring from at the lever with needle nosed pliers to make working with the adjustment easier to do without that pressure on the lever. With E brake released, loosened lock nut "B" and backed it off the lever about 1/8" or so. Tightened adjustment bolt "C" by hand just until it stopped. Retightened lock nut "B". E brake now holds securely on my hillside driveway, and releases completely. Reinstalled skid plate. Hope this might be of some help to someone as none of this is in the owner's manual or in diagrams.
up.
Released brake and rechecked the actuator arm, it was all the way down.
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