What changes did you make to your Joyner in 2010 & what are you going to to in 2011?

[MauyThai1]

I made hard top and back panel, installed 3/4 wind shield with skirt which rolls down and snaps to the wind shield for cold or bad weather, made half doors,made roll up fabric half doors with plastic windows for bad weather, painted bottom inch of roof mounted lights to stop them from washing out the wind shield and hood for better viability, installed mud flares, made cover for storage box in dash, installed snorkel and turbo, moved radiator back two inches and made shrouds around radiator to funnel more air into radiator, sealed every seam, crack and rattle I could find, added fuel controller which still won't work with turbo, made steering box upgrade and installed two more grease zerts, upgraded rear diff, made taunoue cover for bed, installed plastic skirting around the inside of the bed to keep stuff in, made heat shield over the turbo, removed fuel tank and had a bigger one made which didn't leak and then made better venting system with a filter, made rubber bushings for heim joints and then made wrap around boots for the joints to keep out debris, made a cover for the area behind the seats to keep out dust and noise, installed receptacle for plug in chargers or spot light.

I want to add power steering unit, and hinge the hood so I can have more storage for gear, up grade shocks. Robert.

[stevozz]

I am right in the middle of giving my green trooper a new face lift, reinforced the roll bar and did some changes to the rear bed added tie downs, got rid of the spare tire bars, getting powder coated tomorrow, welded square stock in to mount tools to, welded mounts for my piaa lights, made up a windbreaker a bigger one then what I had on it before, made my hood to open, also will have a cb radio in it, plus everything that I made and installed on it back in 2009. I am going to paint it desert camo. hope to have it done by the end of sept.

[whobbies]

I did the following 2010,

Rebuilt & redesigned the cage

Added a passenger handhold

Had to replace the rear diff mounts

Rubber mounted the rear diff

Got rid of the safari deck in the rear

Moved the rear coil-over shock mounts

Add additional Fox shocks in the rear in old mounts

In 2011 I will

Add doors

Add power steering

Replace rear wheel bearings

Replace fuel tank with a Fuel Cell

Install Lenny's diff kit in front & rear diffs

rocmoc n AZ

Rocmoc,

It just beat me down, and as much as I like the chassis construction I didn't want it to go to waist, so this is what I am doing to my Trooper, here it goes:

Removed the Chery engine, tranny and entire diff and axle system

Cut and re-designed the rear chassis and installed a type 3 VW tranny, and 1725 air-cooled engine

Modifed the rear bearing carriers to accept VW buggy hubs

Installed Chevy rear brakes and discs, drilled and pressed lugs to accept Trooper rims

Installed 10 gallon spun aluminum gas tank

Made a custom rear bolt-on engine / cover / cage assembly

Lowered the steering wheel and adapted a custom steering wheel

Set the dash board up with all American gauges

My wife and I have been working on this super-cool conversion for the past three months on and off at night and any weekends we are not working. There has been allot of customizing but it is going smoother than I thought, and that's a nice surprise. It's almost like some of the components fiot in place with little mods. The tranny shifter works better than any I have done before, and that was this weekends pleasent suprise. I put one of my VW offroad engines in it for starters with a dual barrel carb and it makes about 80 HP, so we will se how it does with that.

Being in Florida it's much easier to register customs for the street so I have decided to make this a street legal "one of a kind" we call it: FRANKENJOYNER.

I have built several buggies in my day and this one is turning out to be the most enjoyable, and getting to watch my wife struggle with the 1000 foot-pound Chinese bolts has been a plus. I tell her that they have to make the bolts that tight for the same reason some small guys drive big trucks, no offense intended.

I have taken a bunch of pictures and I will post them once I get this creation on all fours.

I am in need of some ball rod ends and even ball joints as I want to make sure the front end is road worthy. I anyone knows the cross-over or where to get origonals, please let me know.

I think the Joyner is a great concept and the chassis design and assembly is outstanding, but I had too many other problems, and parts just became to tough to get. I did buy it used and abused so in no way should anyone use this as a negitive point if looking into purchasing one. I paid $5500.00 for mine and just wasn't willing to let it go to waist, so for another $2000.00 and a some long hours we will have another cool toy in our collection.

Thanks,

Tony

[Quig]

WOW! can't wait to hear & see more,, sounds fantastic,,,,,Quig

[ricksrb]

Rocmoc,

It just beat me down, and as much as I like the chassis construction I didn't want it to go to waist, so this is what I am doing to my Trooper, here it goes:

Removed the Chery engine, tranny and entire diff and axle system

Cut and re-designed the rear chassis and installed a type 3 VW tranny, and 1725 air-cooled engine

Modifed the rear bearing carriers to accept VW buggy hubs

Installed Chevy rear brakes and discs, drilled and pressed lugs to accept Trooper rims

Installed 10 gallon spun aluminum gas tank

Made a custom rear bolt-on engine / cover / cage assembly

Lowered the steering wheel and adapted a custom steering wheel

Set the dash board up with all American gauges

My wife and I have been working on this super-cool conversion for the past three months on and off at night and any weekends we are not working. There has been allot of customizing but it is going smoother than I thought, and that's a nice surprise. It's almost like some of the components fiot in place with little mods. The tranny shifter works better than any I have done before, and that was this weekends pleasent suprise. I put one of my VW offroad engines in it for starters with a dual barrel carb and it makes about 80 HP, so we will se how it does with that.

Being in Florida it's much easier to register customs for the street so I have decided to make this a street legal "one of a kind" we call it: FRANKENJOYNER.

I have built several buggies in my day and this one is turning out to be the most enjoyable, and getting to watch my wife struggle with the 1000 foot-pound Chinese bolts has been a plus. I tell her that they have to make the bolts that tight for the same reason some small guys drive big trucks, no offense intended.

I have taken a bunch of pictures and I will post them once I get this creation on all fours.

I am in need of some ball rod ends and even ball joints as I want to make sure the front end is road worthy. I anyone knows the cross-over or where to get origonals, please let me know.

I think the Joyner is a great concept and the chassis design and assembly is outstanding, but I had too many other problems, and parts just became to tough to get. I did buy it used and abused so in no way should anyone use this as a negitive point if looking into purchasing one. I paid $5500.00 for mine and just wasn't willing to let it go to waist, so for another $2000.00 and a some long hours we will have another cool toy in our collection.

Thanks,

Tony

Question: By installing the VW Engine and trans did you eliminate the 4wd? If not did you mount the engine and trans sideways? sounds very interesting and really looking forward to the photos.

[whobbies]

Question: By installing the VW Engine and trans did you eliminate the 4wd? If not did you mount the engine and trans sideways? sounds very interesting and really looking forward to the photos.

Rick, Yes I eliminated the 4WD. Here in Florida we don't have the sand like you guys, we do have sugar sand but much of our terrain grass and weeds grow over it providing a harder surface. There will be instances that if I decide to try it in areas with lots of sugar sand that I will have to configure the tires to be paddles on the back and thin runners on the front.

I wanted to make this easy to work on and practical to use as a street driver, so I chose to mount the tranny and engine conventional. I could of reversed the engine and then use pretty much any 4 cylinder adapted to the tranny, but would have to forfit the front wheel drive anyway, so I took the path of least resistance.

I receintly purchased my wife a 2011 RZR and we seldom use the 4WD, so all in all for our uses I think it will work fine as a 2WD vehicle. I have gotten over well 100 HP out of a 1600 bored and stroked, so if I need more HP I'll get to work on a new engine for it. I'll try to find some of the pics and put them up ASAP.

Thanks,

Tony

[whobbies]

WOW! can't wait to hear & see more,, sounds fantastic,,,,,Quig

Here are some pictures of FRANKENJOYNER In the early stages. At this time I have completed the rear of the chassis with a bolt-on sub frame that in one of the pics is started. This looks real nice and adds what is needed to the origonal chassis so it doesn't look like an engine sticking out of the back of the origonal frame.

You can see the basic tranny /engine install and rear hub conversions to adapt to a VW bearing carrier and IRS axle stubs. Not much left to do before the maiden test than disassemble, powder coat the new parts and re-assemble. I did add a couple uprights to tie the tranny mount tubes to the chassis frame, though not in these pictures.

Thanks,

Tony

[ricksrb]

Here are some pictures of FRANKENJOYNER In the early stages. At this time I have completed the rear of the chassis with a bolt-on sub frame that in one of the pics is started. This looks real nice and adds what is needed to the origonal chassis so it doesn't look like an engine sticking out of the back of the origonal frame.

You can see the basic tranny /engine install and rear hub conversions to adapt to a VW bearing carrier and IRS axle stubs. Not much left to do before the maiden test than disassemble, powder coat the new parts and re-assemble. I did add a couple uprights to tie the tranny mount tubes to the chassis frame, though not in these pictures.

Thanks,

Tony

Looks good,definately opens up your options for other engines if you want.Keep us posted with the progress and more photos.Are you interested in selling the chery engine and trans?

[whobbies]

Looks good,definately opens up your options for other engines if you want.Keep us posted with the progress and more photos.Are you interested in selling the chery engine and trans?

Rick, Sorry I already sold everything, one of the guys on this forum asked about three months ago. I do have a 1600 VIPER engine and ECU that I will sell cheap. I think all in all it will be a fun daily driver, and a hit at the VW meets.

Thanks,

Tony

[ricksrb]

Rick, Sorry I already sold everything, one of the guys on this forum asked about three months ago. I do have a 1600 VIPER engine and ECU that I will sell cheap. I think all in all it will be a fun daily driver, and a hit at the VW meets.

Thanks,

Tony

Thats okay, I was asking because I thought of someone on here that might be interested,He might have been the one that purchased it.

Thank you,

[Guest Lenny]

Hi Tony, I see you didn't use the 1600cc engine I sold you. The engne is like brand new but the Vw engine should be easier to deal with, parts and all. If you want to re-do your A-frame heims joints, see my posting in the first part of August titled 'Replacing A-frame Heims Joints. This is a good solid approach and is much stronger and not too expensive. With your machining ability,you wouldn't have any problems doing what i did. I don't have an ounce of play anymore. I guess I'm not the only one on this board that is a bit crazy and will get involved in projects that most responsible people wouldn't consider doing. Sounds like you did a nice job. It will be interesting to here how it runs out, should be pretty quick. Always good to have another forum member who has great ideas to share.

Lenny

[whobbies]

Hi Tony, I see you didn't use the 1600cc engine I sold you. The engne is like brand new but the Vw engine should be easier to deal with, parts and all. If you want to re-do your A-frame heims joints, see my posting in the first part of August titled 'Replacing A-frame Heims Joints. This is a good solid approach and is much stronger and not too expensive. With your machining ability,you wouldn't have any problems doing what i did. I don't have an ounce of play anymore. I guess I'm not the only one on this board that is a bit crazy and will get involved in projects that most responsible people wouldn't consider doing. Sounds like you did a nice job. It will be interesting to here how it runs out, should be pretty quick. Always good to have another forum member who has great ideas to share.

Lenny

Lenny,

I still have the engine but the retro concerned me after the catostrophic drive shaft U-joint break happened. I know Porsche and VW engines in and out, and I have a couple in my shop waiting for a set of wheels, so I used one of my stronger one's to test on the Joyner. I think it will be a blast, especially street legal. It's funny when you think about it that VW is responcible for the dune buggy since the early 60's, and today now 50 years later I put one in the Joyner almost like it was ment to be there.

I also found the exact steering rack that Joyner copied from a US manufacture at AppleGate for $150.00 and put one on order, and yes I will have a look at what you did for the ball ends, I need to be sure of the front end when on the road.

Proubably the coolest thing was being able to machine the rear bearing carriers out and cold-press and weld the VW bearing carrier in place. Even with the Chevy brake calipers used the Joyner rear rims (I.D.) cleared by 1/4", it has been much easier than I thought.

I also found a company at a tradeshow when in China a couple months back that make a similar off-road buggy, most of the parts looked identicle, however they were "unsure" if the parts would fit Joyner???????? They were also using the Chery engine. If you are interested I will look for the email, they will sell direct but they would assume no liability.

Thanks,

Tony C.

[Kinarfi]

Lenny,

I still have the engine but the retro concerned me after the catostrophic drive shaft U-joint break happened. I know Porsche and VW engines in and out, and I have a couple in my shop waiting for a set of wheels, so I used one of my stronger one's to test on the Joyner. I think it will be a blast, especially street legal. It's funny when you think about it that VW is responcible for the dune buggy since the early 60's, and today now 50 years later I put one in the Joyner almost like it was ment to be there.

I also found the exact steering rack that Joyner copied from a US manufacture at AppleGate for $150.00 and put one on order, and yes I will have a look at what you did for the ball ends, I need to be sure of the front end when on the road.

Proubably the coolest thing was being able to machine the rear bearing carriers out and cold-press and weld the VW bearing carrier in place. Even with the Chevy brake calipers used the Joyner rear rims (I.D.) cleared by 1/4", it has been much easier than I thought.

I also found a company at a tradeshow when in China a couple months back that make a similar off-road buggy, most of the parts looked identicle, however they were "unsure" if the parts would fit Joyner???????? They were also using the Chery engine. If you are interested I will look for the email, they will sell direct but they would assume no liability.

Thanks,

Tony C.

Chevy or Chery? and did you say you put a VW bearing in the swing arms, out of which VW?

[whobbies]

Chevy or Chery? and did you say you put a VW bearing in the swing arms, out of which VW?

Chevy (GM) brake calipers.

You have to purchase or make carriers used for sand rails, machine the I.D. of the Joyner hub to accept them. I machined -0.001 froze the carrier and pressed it into the Joyner hub, then carefully welded it in place. It was a close fit and pretty exacting to insure the carrier would press straight in.

Thanks,

Tony

[whobbies]

Chevy or Chery? and did you say you put a VW bearing in the swing arms, out of which VW?

I want to be clear that I used GM calipers and rotors drilled and studded for the Joyner rims. The Joyner rims have a bigger offset than any automotive I could find worthy of the road. In NO WAY would I use or recommend the Joyner brake system for on road use, they are much too small, more appropriete for a Quad rather than a buggy or car as in my case. I am going to leave the front brakes and hubs Joyner and trust that the large rear brakes will provide enough stopping power. Although I would much rather have the larger brakes in the front, I have built some "shorty" VW powered cars in the past that only used rear brakes, and they stopped the car very well. I did re-plumb the brake system with a genuine CNC master cylinder dedicated to the rear brakes and the Joyner Chinese copy to operate the front brakes.

Thanks,

Tony

[whobbies]

Chevy or Chery? and did you say you put a VW bearing in the swing arms, out of which VW?

Here are a few current pictures of the progress of FRANKENJOYNER.

Thanks,

Tony C

[Guest Lenny]

I want to be clear that I used GM calipers and rotors drilled and studded for the Joyner rims. The Joyner rims have a bigger offset than any automotive I could find worthy of the road. In NO WAY would I use or recommend the Joyner brake system for on road use, they are much too small, more appropriete for a Quad rather than a buggy or car as in my case. I am going to leave the front brakes and hubs Joyner and trust that the large rear brakes will provide enough stopping power. Although I would much rather have the larger brakes in the front, I have built some "shorty" VW powered cars in the past that only used rear brakes, and they stopped the car very well. I did re-plumb the brake system with a genuine CNC master cylinder dedicated to the rear brakes and the Joyner Chinese copy to operate the front brakes.

Thanks,

Tony

Tony, for the front brakes you may want to consider what I did. I put an extra Joyner caliper on each side of the front. Just extended the brake bracket to the up side and weld another anchor point to the spindle housing. T'd off each brake line. Actually I have 2 calipers on all 4 wheels for my driving brakes. A lot better stopping power.

Lenny

[whobbies]

Tony, for the front brakes you may want to consider what I did. I put an extra Joyner caliper on each side of the front. Just extended the brake bracket to the up side and weld another anchor point to the spindle housing. T'd off each brake line. Actually I have 2 calipers on all 4 wheels for my driving brakes. A lot better stopping power.

Lenny

Good idea, if I need additional I will do that.

[whobbies]

Tony, for the front brakes you may want to consider what I did. I put an extra Joyner caliper on each side of the front. Just extended the brake bracket to the up side and weld another anchor point to the spindle housing. T'd off each brake line. Actually I have 2 calipers on all 4 wheels for my driving brakes. A lot better stopping power.

Lenny

My biggest concern was the material the hubs were made out of and was concerned with welding to them, but to my surprise the casts were high quality and they welded very nice. Also, I know use are using your machines off road, but with two calipers on those thin discs are you having any heat issues?

[Guest Lenny]

My biggest concern was the material the hubs were made out of and was concerned with welding to them, but to my surprise the casts were high quality and they welded very nice. Also, I know use are using your machines off road, but with two calipers on those thin discs are you having any heat issues?

Have hade them on for a couple of years now and haven't had any problems what so ever. PS, the heims joing change over I posted has several pictures showing what I did.

Lenny

[showa]

Hmmmmm. Some of you guys have gone way above and beyond anything I ever considered...

However, if whobbies ever wanted to go water cooled, you might look into this neat little site: http://www.subarugears.com/

Great looking build bye the way.

[whobbies]

Hmmmmm. Some of you guys have gone way above and beyond anything I ever considered...

However, if whobbies ever wanted to go water cooled, you might look into this neat little site: http://www.subarugears.com/

Great looking build bye the way.

My business is full of changes and problems to solve almost on a daily level, and we have overcome so many obsticals converted to innovations over the course of three decades to be where we are today with ourt product line. I actually enjoy solving problems, (once I get over the Bitching) and making products better, and I am fortunete to have the facility and tools at my disposal making it a bit easier, however that's no excuse not to take on a project, I remember using my 4" die-grinder as a multipurpose machine back in the day. It keeps you thinking, and for every effort there is usually follow-up knowledge gained for the next project.

I urge people in my industry to take on projects, and myself and my company provides plenty of support to see them through sucessfully. This is something we seem to be loosing in our country today and it is and will effect us in the long run.

Not everyone is mechanically inclined, I know this all too well, because if they were I would not have the business I have today, however my sons whom are surrounded by all of this are a perfect example of capability without persurverience, and I don't understand it at all, in their case it is plain lazyness. I can not get them to understand the importance in starting and completing a project, as the whole is a problem solving endeavor Personally I get the enjoyment more-so out of the building experience, and when it's done, it's fun for a while then it ends up in the back of the shop or sold.

The whole process also keeps me focused for the duration, and I can have two or more projects going at one time which can take a year or two or three to complete, and do so as I have the desire.

I drive by golf courses daily to and from my factory, but never had the desire to give it a try, yet I sell products to thousands of guys that play golf. It is something that many of my friends don't understand, yet I find completly normal in my life. It may very well be a sickness, but one I have learned to self-medicate to keep me out of the hospital?

That's my excuse, outside of the unwillingness to throw away $5500.00, and be beat by this machine. I'm sure there are many of us on this forum with similar illnesses, maybe not as severe? Don't be afraid to go through with a project regardless of how crazy it sounds to you and what your friends may think. there are always guys willing to lend advice, especially here, and the worst thing you will get in return is experience.

Thank, Tony C.

P.S.- The hardest part was mostly mental, the first cut with the Sawsall, after that it's a piece of cake.

[whobbies]

Have had them on for a couple of years now and haven't had any problems what so ever. PS, the heims joing change over I posted has several pictures showing what I did.

Lenny

Lenny, Where did you say I can see what you did to replace the ball ends? Also is there a auto crossover for the ball joints?

Thanks,

Tony C.

[Guest Lenny]

Lenny, Where did you say I can see what you did to replace the ball ends? Also is there a auto crossover for the ball joints?

Thanks,

Tony C.

Here is the link;

http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2351-replacing-a-arm-heims-joints/

There are no auto parts supply ball joints that fit.

LEnny

[whobbies]

Here is the link;

http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2351-replacing-a-arm-heims-joints/

There are no auto parts supply ball joints that fit.

LEnny

Yes I have found that out, however I did like your fix. I did put a VW ball joint in last night and made a tappered spacer and it seems to work pretty good, just enough threads and I used a nylon lock nut. I will check it better when I get home and see if it will do the job safely.

Just purchased front bearings, another problem. Had to get them out of Europe. In have good friends Mike and Allen owners of Boca Bearing here in Florida. Mike spent a good 1/2 hour with me trying to find the direct replacement with no luck. I ended up going with a tapered sealed set. Is there something I missed?

[whobbies]

Yes I have found that out, however I did like your fix. I did put a VW ball joint in last night and made a tappered spacer and it seems to work pretty good, just enough threads and I used a nylon lock nut. I will check it better when I get home and see if it will do the job safely.

Just purchased front bearings, another problem. Had to get them out of Europe. In have good friends Mike and Allen owners of Boca Bearing here in Florida. Mike spent a good 1/2 hour with me trying to find the direct replacement with no luck. I ended up going with a tapered sealed set. Is there something I missed?

Lenny, sorry " VW Tie rod end" not ball joint.