Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

In the market for side by side. Narrowed it down between the pioneer 1000 or defender Hd9. Looking for pros and cons of both. Any info would be helpful in my selection process. Noise, speed, reliability, ride, all of it.

Posted

Honda. Not even a question. Especially for reliability. It may not be the fastest or smoothest but it won't leave you on the trail stranded. No belt to break. Real transmission and gears. Every oil change also changes the trans fluid as they run in the same fluid. I had a pioneer 700 and it was amazing. Now have a talon. Never any issues on either aside from maintenance. Just my 2 pennies as a 24 year veteran mechanic.

Posted

I do all my own services end repairs.

But the B.U.D.S system from BRP is a crime. Have an can-am ATV and a skidoo snowmobile, both standing still because I can't read the ECU.

Had a lot of silly troubles with the ATV from new. Not nice to standing in the middle of nowhere and the thing will not start. And suddenly after a few minutes is starts like there was nothing happened. 

Never a BRP product for me again.

 

edit: I wrote DESS intead of B.U.D.S.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Honda is a well-made machine as most all of Honda products, but I'll warn you that the cab in the P1000 gets hot from the engine heat. If yd need a windshield, make absolutely sure you can open part of it for much needed ventilation.  Can Am did have a reliable rep when I was shopping 5 years ago, but Honda rep can't be beat.  Polaris has many more machines on the road (trails), more dealers, and more accessories available.   I own several Honda machines including a P1000 primarily because they just keep running year after year.

The P1000 is not sporty, but it is a great workhorse that you can certainly use on the trails.  It has plenty of power.  I don't think you need the paddle shifting unless you're really into "playing" in the dirt which some people seem to enjoy. 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Bjabbarw
      My 2021 Odes Dominator 800 bogs down at 25mph and won’t go over that speed. I have changed the fuel pump and it still does the same, it runs and idles fine, it has great reverse speed, but it won’t accelerate past 25mph. Any Ideas?
    • By shawn b
      my hisun died on me while driving it started losing power then stalled. it wants to start but wont . it didn't over heat. I replaced plug,fuel filter injector, and fuel pump.put code reader on it and says no codes. have any ideas possibly sensor? Any input on what it could be would be appreciated
    • By tskm
      in desperate need of a rear differential for my 2014 wildcat 1000. It has blown up right in the midst of the hurricane that struck us here in N/W N.C. I could really use this machine right now. No luck finding this from Artic Cat or the many numerous online vendors. Any info or resources wil be greatly appreciated !
      Tom 
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • eManualonline.com Save 30% OFF Sitewide, Use code: XMAS30
    • By Brett
      Fuel injected 700 starts great and idles great but touch the gas and it dies
×
×
  • Create New...