Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Have any of you fabbed doors for your Trooper? Here's my plan .....1/4 inch polypropylene sheeting, steel reinforced frame. Hinged so doors sweep up when opened. AutoLoc latches. Window net

buggydoors1.jpg?t=1294877096

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

Oh this is just a photoshop rendering of what my plan is. I just did new hinges on my 1970 Mini Cooper Van and used the AutoLoc hinges for that....thus giving me an example of what can be done fairly easily.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I've been playin around with Photoshop again and came up with this for design. I think I'd rather go with a half door using polypropylene .25 plastic sheeting. It's light weight, paintable, and durable. All I'll need to do is weld angle iron from the seat handhold to the A pillar, and weld some tabs for mounting. I'm kinda old and overweight, but it's low enough to hop over and high enough to protect your legs from exiting the vehicle (hopefully)

post-209-0-41485500-1295991819_thumb.jpg

I'm also going to take the filter up through the roof and mount a F1 type scoop to the roof to protect the filter from draft dust. Maybe like this:

SilverDoors.jpg?t=1295993146

Posted

Good looking Trooper. Really like the assimulated bolts on the side that give it a boiler plate tough look. Like the roof scoop too but you may want to make it shorter and run some bars from the front to the upper corners to keep it from scooping up limbs or competive machines as you blow buy them..

Of course anyone that drives a Dodge Ram knows what they are doing.

Lenny

Posted

Thanks guys. I didn't think about low limbs scraping the scoop and filter off the roof. Good point! The main reason I don't consider canvas is because for my personal taste; it doesn't look COOL. I'm a fat old man and the only chance i have of looking cool is through my 4 wheeled toys! (Thus the F1 scoop and the RAM truck; and the Mini Cooper; and Subaru STI; and and and......) :lol::lol::lol:

Posted

While I was crying the blues at work Saturday because the person I was counting on to cover for was sick and I couldnt go to Havasu I decided I was going to start on my doors when I got home.I called a local metal supplier and picked up the material on my lunch break and on the way home got my pipe bender.Saturday afternoon I pulled the seats,gas tank and disconnected the batteries to get ready.Sunday I cut the pipe guars off next to the drivers seat and rear passenger seat and made patterns.Started bending and tonight got all for frames done.Still have a long way to go and will post photos.I was going to do a artist rendition but I dont have photo shop.I tried with what i do have and turned out as photo slop.

Posted

Hay Rick, Where do you keep your Pipe bender? Is it portable? LOL! You can use my mig if I can use your pipe bender.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

At night its in bed next to me(LOL) Your welcome to it when Im finished.Its not the best but its doing what I want from it.Got it at Harbor Freight.

Posted

At night its in bed next to me(LOL) Your welcome to it when Im finished.Its not the best but its doing what I want from it.Got it at Harbor Freight.

Mine is a Harbor Freight type and it does work and it is cheap. You could always bring your stock to a muffler shop. Or, with a little searching, for about $2000 you can find a used muffler pipe bender. Or, you could go down to the local bar and get your mind bent for 20-30 bucks. Then the next morning, your pipe bending job won't feel very important anymore.

Lenny

Posted

Mine is a Harbor Freight type and it does work and it is cheap. You could always bring your stock to a muffler shop. Or, with a little searching, for about $2000 you can find a used muffler pipe bender. Or, you could go down to the local bar and get your mind bent for 20-30 bucks. Then the next morning, your pipe bending job won't feel very important anymore.

Lenny

your idea about the local bar sounds best,until the next morning ;)

Posted

Here is what I have so far.I have all four door frames made and got the hinges and frames mounted on the driver side.Will work on getting them mounted on the passenger side this weekend.I then will remover the doors and finish off the weld points on the buggy and paint so I can put the tank and seats and all back in so she is ready to go with or without the completed doors.I will then need to add some some bracing to the doors and put the skin on them.I still have not found the what door latch and handle system I want to use,thats another reason I am in no hurry to finish the doors.

med_gallery_475_29_596154.jpg

http://www.utvboard.com/uploads/1293105125/med_gallery_475_29_453601.jpg click on attachment, then left click to enlarge to read print

Posted

Here is what I have so far.I have all four door frames made and got the hinges and frames mounted on the driver side.Will work on getting them mounted on the passenger side this weekend.I then will remover the doors and finish off the weld points on the buggy and paint so I can put the tank and seats and all back in so she is ready to go with or without the completed doors.I will then need to add some some bracing to the doors and put the skin on them.I still have not found the what door latch and handle system I want to use,thats another reason I am in no hurry to finish the doors.

med_gallery_475_29_596154.jpg

http://www.utvboard.com/uploads/1293105125/med_gallery_475_29_453601.jpg click on attachment, then left click to enlarge to read print

Edited your post, take a look at it, On the back door, when you open it, it swings toward the ground and may be hard for a kid to pull shut. When I saw Jarrads set at the last jamboree, I came up with this idea of putting a spring inside the door frame that pushes a plunger forward into a hole to hold the door shut and has a slot where a handle attaches to pull the plunger back to open the door.

Kinarfi

Posted

Edited your post, take a look at it, On the back door, when you open it, it swings toward the ground and may be hard for a kid to pull shut. When I saw Jarrads set at the last jamboree, I came up with this idea of putting a spring inside the door frame that pushes a plunger forward into a hole to hold the door shut and has a slot where a handle attaches to pull the plunger back to open the door.

Kinarfi

My original thought was the plunger with spring assist to keep it in locked position.Looking for something else but may still use it.both front and backgo at angle but only about 60 or 70 degrees from closed position,not hard to close but also looking at a spring assist on it.Thanks for the input..

Posted

Really nice Rick. I don't know if you've checked these out; but I used them on my classic mini. They are easy to work with and have many options from remote door pops to standard handles. A bit spendy; but they will never pop open accidentally. They have a surround type of catch. They do require a $50 install kit however (Unless you are a whiz at fabbing sheet metal)

http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/product.lasso?prodinc=bearclaw

post-209-0-50492600-1296843110_thumb.jpg

Posted

Really nice Rick. I don't know if you've checked these out; but I used them on my classic mini. They are easy to work with and have many options from remote door pops to standard handles. A bit spendy; but they will never pop open accidentally. They have a surround type of catch. They do require a $50 install kit however (Unless you are a whiz at fabbing sheet metal)

http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/product.lasso?prodinc=bearclaw

I did look into them,I think you mentioned them in one of your posts.Kind of pricey as you said.Remember I need double everything because of the four doors.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Rick, how about an update. Will start mine soon.

rocmoc n AZ

had all the frames done and got sick so stoped working on them.While thinking about it i changed my mind on the design.I really liked the way i had them but doors were so long that way.when opened stuck out oo far.I have been working on them a little each day since sunday and will post some photos.Been busy with the job also,that time of year for us to do budgeting for the next fiscal year so lots of time on that and not much time on the fun things.Hows it it coming with looking for a DP? Remember i will trade you the use of the pipe bender for the use of your new DP(LOL).Gotta have at least three slide outs and a wet bar or forget it..

Posted

We are selling the Toyhauler first. Don't need two RVs and only have storage for one. We aren't in a hurry as the market for RVs is only going to soften more. LOL, the trade was my mig.

rocmoc n AZ

Posted

We are selling the Toyhauler first. Don't need two RVs and only have storage for one. We aren't in a hurry as the market for RVs is only going to soften more. LOL, the trade was my mig.

rocmoc n AZ

Your so right about the RV market.My mistake,thought you said rig meaning your DP.(LOL)

Posted

Ever thought about a delorean style gull wing door on some gas shocks? Can't wait for pictures of your new doors

Thought about that as well as the other way where the door lifts forward(not sure what you call it) as well as the door swinging down towards the ground.

Posted

I just thought I'd jump in here if ya don't mind. Thats called a "Lambo" door kit. The "Autoloc" website has them as well as a bunch of others on EBay. The thing is that they are heavy and need substantial thickness in the doors to hide the hinge mechanism. I was going to put them on my classic Mini, but the doors aren't big enough without mega fabrication.....but....it has actually been done. That would definately be cool though on a Trooper! ;)

post-209-0-49452200-1298566303_thumb.jpg

Posted

I just thought I'd jump in here if ya don't mind. Thats called a "Lambo" door kit. The "Autoloc" website has them as well as a bunch of others on EBay. The thing is that they are heavy and need substantial thickness in the doors to hide the hinge mechanism. I was going to put them on my classic Mini, but the doors aren't big enough without mega fabrication.....but....it has actually been done. That would definately be cool though on a Trooper! ;)

Yep,thats what i was talking about.Thanks,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Nutcase
      I have a Joyner Trooper 1100 4 place that has been sitting for a number of years. I have everything taken care of but i can't get the fuel through the injectors. Fuel pump puts full pressure on them but they don't turn on or spray fuel. Any ideas?
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By REDfletching
      Spent today at a Honda dealership looking at their 520 side by side, then on the way home past our Lowes noticed they had several new UTVs on site, so we U-turned and ducked in there. We were impressed that all that came for $9,999 metal whole length skid plate, nice sized bed, roof, windshield, side mirrors, winch, upgrade looking tires… all of which would have added thousands of dollars to an already expensive Honda 520. Now Honda does have a great reputation from my trusted UTV experienced buddy, so it has that going for it.
    • By hdtran
      That's the question! Or, if you want to add details:
      (a) How do you use the UTV? (roads? off-road to get to trees? etc.)
      (b) If you are wearing a helmet--how frequently? What type of helmet?
       
      My own answers: (a) Most of the time off-road to get to downed trees, cut the trees to logs and haul the logs back for splitting. (b) Very rarely, a ski helmet and not a motorcycle helmet.



×
×
  • Create New...