Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I am having an erratic issue.  Sometimes the solenoid/relay does not activate when switching on the power.  Thus the electric motor does not work. You can hear the solenoid activate because it is right under the seat in the middle. The solenoid/relay connects the batteries to the electric motor circuit. When it fails at making the connection I get a 54C3 code on the display.

Posted (edited)

Hello, according to the manual, the 54C3 error looks like:

54C3  |  MOSFET s/c M1>B+ MOSFET |   IGBT s/c detection on M1 top devices

The IGBTs are part of the electric power switching system for the main drive. M1 indicates one of the phase wires going to the motor. Since it's intermittent, I suspect dirt, corrosion, or contamination on the electrical contacts. I'd think about cleaning the contacts. I'd suggest using personal protective equipment (nitrile gloves, maybe leather gloves on top of the nitrile gloves), safety glasses at a minimum.  Unplug the charger, make sure the key is off and removed.  Then, I'd suggest removing the seat, and using a DRY toothbrush (or similar plastic brush) and brush all the contacts on or near the motor controller module (and the main contactor/relay/solenoid). (This is a black module fastened near the middle batteries). I'd also think about using a compressed air gun (don't let the tip get near the batteries or any of the contacts!) or a spray duster and spray around the contacts at the motor controller. Then, I'd go to the motor itself, and look at where the wires are attached--see if you can see crud, dirt, corrosion, etc. and clean around the motor and where the power wires connect to the motor.

Good luck, and please let us know how things go!

 

 

Edited by hdtran
added stuff that may want cleaning
Posted

Thanks for the suggestions. I had read the manual for the diagnostics on the code. I have checked and cleaned all the visible electrical connections. Although I have seen no corrosion, I applied an anti corrosion spray and cleaner. I have also checked all electrical connection for tightness. Right now it is working fine. I will wait and see what happens in the future. I am in the fourth year of having this E1 and except for the parking brake never working well, even though it has been in the shop for a repair, it has been a very reliable vehicle. I the idea of the EV, for I have owned an EV car and two hybrids, but I am concerned about how sensitive all the electronics are and the fact that there are few techs that can repair them. Fortunately I am both a retired auto tech and a retired IT so I do have a few insights into their workings. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Good luck! I just got a Sector E1 a couple of months ago. The only use will be spring-thru-autumn for firewood collection. I'm at about 9300 ft altitude, and in the winter, we get more than 150" of snow--the E1 will be outside (with a cover). I'm hoping the batteries will survive 3-4 months of winter (I'll charge them before parking the unit for the winter)--and that neither mice nor pack-rats decide to make their home in the battery compartment 😜

Please update if your intermittent comes up again!

Posted

The batteries will last longer if you keep a charge on them about once a week.  I would suggest you use a timer to  charge every ten days or so when parked. The batteries are expensive and you do not want to have to replace them. I am on the original batteries now for four years and I charge once a week all year around.. 

Posted

What condition is your 12v battery in? By which I mean the little one that sits right under the driver's seat? After four years it might be on the way out, and that could explain the occasional misfire on the solenoid. It's the 12v supply that turns the solenoid on, connecting the 48v battery set to the controller and motor.

Posted

The 12 battery was replaced last year. It is in good shape. Actually I checked the voltage going to the solenoid and it is 24 volts. So it must get its power from half of the drive batteries. I made a small 3/8" hole in the plastic area of the solenoid and sprayed contact cleaner in the contact area and then blew it out and cover the hole with a plug. So far everything is working as it should.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By hisun junk
      As I tried to do a conversion with the Yamaha 660 motor, I realized the 660 was never fuel injected so it would not work for the fuel injected hisun motor swap. But the good thing is the hisun 750 motor is a clone of the 660 Yamaha but with the components for the fuel injection (cam/crank position sensor). So that left me with a new rebuilt Yamaha 660 and still a broke 750 hisun motor. I took apart 750 think the timing chain had broke from all that I've heard about these motors. The chain was not broke, but just off cam and crank gears! The chain tensioner was at fault!  I've ordered Yamaha 660 replacement parts, chain, two exhaust valves (which got bent when chain came off while motor was spinning) and seals. The piston has 2 little nicks where it had hit valves but no damage otherwise. The head is being redone at the machine shop and I'll be putting it back together in the next couple of weeks. Also I finally tracked down a Service Manual with all the info on the 550/750 Challenger.

    • By A P
      Hi
      I have a 2022 hisun sector eps 550. 30amp fuse is blown for eps. Checked the motor and it’s fine. Opened up the controller and found a bad diode. Dealer wanted 500$ for the controller. Just posting this in case it helps someone. I couldn’t read numbers from the old one so just took a guess and replaced it with a 100v 3amp diode. 
    • By TPlummer
      We recently purchased the Axis x550. Fueled it with 93 fuel and drove one time around the farm and the 02 fault error appeared. Any ideas? 
    • By John M in Louisiana
      Quick question about replacing the plug.  One of the prongs pulled out, so I'm thinking it will be an easy fix to connect the old cord with a new plug but I'm unsure about the specs.  15amp 125v?  Is it more complicated than that?  I do plan to buy a plug that's water tight.
      Thanks in advance!
    • By felo72
      Hello all. I purchased a brand new Massimo Buck 250 EFI in June for our farm and I've had the parking brake fail on me twice. I have approximately 250 miles on the vehicle. The first time was less than a month after receiving the UTV. We all of a sudden lost brake pressure and it would not start. I tracked the issue back to the parking brake. Upon removing the chain cover, I noticed the brake pad was missing and the caliper piston was touching the rotor. I found a set of brake pads online and replaced them myself. It's worked for several months and just happened again. Seems like a design flaw. I'm reaching out to see if there's an upgrade option available, or if I should replace the entire caliper with the brake pads? Thanks in advance for any advise.
      I submitted a warranty claim, so I'll keep this updated with what Massimo replies.
      When I replaced the brake pads the first time, back in July, my Son made a video on YouTube to show the unique caliper design. Here's a link if you wanted to check it out:
       


×
×
  • Create New...