Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I am having an erratic issue.  Sometimes the solenoid/relay does not activate when switching on the power.  Thus the electric motor does not work. You can hear the solenoid activate because it is right under the seat in the middle. The solenoid/relay connects the batteries to the electric motor circuit. When it fails at making the connection I get a 54C3 code on the display.

Posted (edited)

Hello, according to the manual, the 54C3 error looks like:

54C3  |  MOSFET s/c M1>B+ MOSFET |   IGBT s/c detection on M1 top devices

The IGBTs are part of the electric power switching system for the main drive. M1 indicates one of the phase wires going to the motor. Since it's intermittent, I suspect dirt, corrosion, or contamination on the electrical contacts. I'd think about cleaning the contacts. I'd suggest using personal protective equipment (nitrile gloves, maybe leather gloves on top of the nitrile gloves), safety glasses at a minimum.  Unplug the charger, make sure the key is off and removed.  Then, I'd suggest removing the seat, and using a DRY toothbrush (or similar plastic brush) and brush all the contacts on or near the motor controller module (and the main contactor/relay/solenoid). (This is a black module fastened near the middle batteries). I'd also think about using a compressed air gun (don't let the tip get near the batteries or any of the contacts!) or a spray duster and spray around the contacts at the motor controller. Then, I'd go to the motor itself, and look at where the wires are attached--see if you can see crud, dirt, corrosion, etc. and clean around the motor and where the power wires connect to the motor.

Good luck, and please let us know how things go!

 

 

Edited by hdtran
added stuff that may want cleaning
Posted

Thanks for the suggestions. I had read the manual for the diagnostics on the code. I have checked and cleaned all the visible electrical connections. Although I have seen no corrosion, I applied an anti corrosion spray and cleaner. I have also checked all electrical connection for tightness. Right now it is working fine. I will wait and see what happens in the future. I am in the fourth year of having this E1 and except for the parking brake never working well, even though it has been in the shop for a repair, it has been a very reliable vehicle. I the idea of the EV, for I have owned an EV car and two hybrids, but I am concerned about how sensitive all the electronics are and the fact that there are few techs that can repair them. Fortunately I am both a retired auto tech and a retired IT so I do have a few insights into their workings. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Good luck! I just got a Sector E1 a couple of months ago. The only use will be spring-thru-autumn for firewood collection. I'm at about 9300 ft altitude, and in the winter, we get more than 150" of snow--the E1 will be outside (with a cover). I'm hoping the batteries will survive 3-4 months of winter (I'll charge them before parking the unit for the winter)--and that neither mice nor pack-rats decide to make their home in the battery compartment 😜

Please update if your intermittent comes up again!

Posted

The batteries will last longer if you keep a charge on them about once a week.  I would suggest you use a timer to  charge every ten days or so when parked. The batteries are expensive and you do not want to have to replace them. I am on the original batteries now for four years and I charge once a week all year around.. 

Posted

What condition is your 12v battery in? By which I mean the little one that sits right under the driver's seat? After four years it might be on the way out, and that could explain the occasional misfire on the solenoid. It's the 12v supply that turns the solenoid on, connecting the 48v battery set to the controller and motor.

Posted

The 12 battery was replaced last year. It is in good shape. Actually I checked the voltage going to the solenoid and it is 24 volts. So it must get its power from half of the drive batteries. I made a small 3/8" hole in the plastic area of the solenoid and sprayed contact cleaner in the contact area and then blew it out and cover the hole with a plug. So far everything is working as it should.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By CapnWalleye
      Just picked up a Hisun 500 that had shift issues (corroded fan gear) which I fixed. It also didn't seem to be running smoothly then all of a sudden it got worse. It seems to miss on both idle and when pushing the gas pedal to the floor and doesn't seem to be running at full power. I've been working with a local person who is walking me through some steps, but I'd like some input from this group as well. What I've done:
      - drained the fuel tank and replaced it with 93 octane fuel and added heet to help with any water problems.
      - replaced the fuel injector.
      - disconnected the battery (several times) to allow the module to reset.
      - set the valve clearance, both intake and exhaust, within specs ... intake was tight but exhaust seemed fine.
      - replaced the battery.
      - replaced the O2 sensor.
      Nothing has helped. Not sure what the next steps are, but would appreciate any expertise that can be offered here.
       
    • By FTG-05
      I want to ditch my Kubota RTV-XG850 and its moronic twitchy throttle design flaw, get rid of the problematic engine and the 40 mph purposely throttled speed.
      So far, I'm looking at the Honda Pioneer 1000 and the Polaris Ranger 1000, both of which have 1000-1500 lb payload bed capacity.
      What other makes and models should I be looking at?
       
      Thanks for the help!
    • By Grant
      I recently bought an axis 500 and it’s missing a box or something the plug is L shaped I’ve looked through the wiring diagrams and still can’t figure it out. The plug is located right near the battery housing 

    • By A P
      Hi
      I have a 2022 hisun sector eps 550. 30amp fuse is blown for eps. Checked the motor and it’s fine. Opened up the controller and found a bad diode. Dealer wanted 500$ for the controller. Just posting this in case it helps someone. I couldn’t read numbers from the old one so just took a guess and replaced it with a 100v 3amp diode. 
    • By Flanman55
      2007 Hisun HS700  will not crank.  Replace the ignition switch. Same thing.  Replaced solenoid by the battery same thing. Can jump it and it starts good across the solenoid posts. Ran a jumper wire from switch to solenoid. Nothing 
       
      can anyone suggest something else. 
×
×
  • Create New...