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By Greg Kilgore
I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can.
I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle.
We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job.
Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home.
Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good.
But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy.
Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.
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By Gorj
I have had my E1 since late last summer and I have always noticed that the parking brake was weak or non existent. About a month or so after I purchased it I mentioned to the dealer that the parking brake did not function well. What I was expecting from the dealer, ' well bring it in and we will correct the issue.' What I got was the typical dealer response, "it may just need to be adjusted." No shit! Well I finally decided to adjust it. A very simple process need only two 10mm wrenches. Open the bed, remove the pin holding the bed to the strut and move the bad out of the way. Right in front of the electric motor is a brake disk. That is the parking brake. It has a small set of brake pads that are actuated by a lever attached to parking brake cable. There are two 10 mm nuts on the shaft to moves the pads. Release the inner nut and hold it in place while screwing in the outer nut - that is really a bolt. After screwing it in about one turn, tighten the other nut. Check the parking brake. If it is holding when activated, then you are good, but if not, then you may have to turn the bolt another turn. Do not turn to far or you will lock it up.
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By Kingfish
The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle. It never rode great, but now I feel every crack in the road. I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff. I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order. Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate? I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
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By felo72
Hello all. I purchased a brand new Massimo Buck 250 EFI in June for our farm and I've had the parking brake fail on me twice. I have approximately 250 miles on the vehicle. The first time was less than a month after receiving the UTV. We all of a sudden lost brake pressure and it would not start. I tracked the issue back to the parking brake. Upon removing the chain cover, I noticed the brake pad was missing and the caliper piston was touching the rotor. I found a set of brake pads online and replaced them myself. It's worked for several months and just happened again. Seems like a design flaw. I'm reaching out to see if there's an upgrade option available, or if I should replace the entire caliper with the brake pads? Thanks in advance for any advise.
I submitted a warranty claim, so I'll keep this updated with what Massimo replies.
When I replaced the brake pads the first time, back in July, my Son made a video on YouTube to show the unique caliper design. Here's a link if you wanted to check it out:
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By Hutch
Okay everyone, need some help here. I got my 2014 Bennche Bighorn 700 from my father inlaw. He has had it since new and as far as I know never had any problems with it until recently. It began with it being hard to start and having to give it some throttle for it to start up. Then it wouldn't stay running once it did start. If you go to start it, it will fire right off and only run for a split second and then die. If you give it some throttle it will start and stay running as long as your foot is on the pedal. While it's running its pretty rough and backfires. Here is a list of everything I've done so far. Initially I checked compression and it was low. I changed the cylinder, piston and rings. Took the head apart cleaned and laped the valves. Checked timing a few times. Adjusted the valves. New spark plug. Checked the air filter, it was fine. New battery. Changed the fuel pump because of a broken fitting. Changed the fuel filter, lines and fuel injector. Dumped the old fuel and put new in. Changed the air idle control, TPS, MAP sensor, Voltage Regulator, ECU and harness. I was getting codes 31, 107, 113 and 122 on the display. Once I changed the ECU no more codes have been displayed but still have the same issues. All fuses look good and as far as I can tell Grounds are good unless there are some I can't find. I'm at a loss here. Not really sure where to go. Compression was better after everything I did but I don't remember the numbers. I'll have to check it again if someone thinks that could be the issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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