Kinarfi's Engine Rebuild

[Kinarfi]

Definetely burning oil. The top valves are the exhaust and you can see where they were hot enough to burn off some of the carbon buildup. The first picture has a place to the lower left side where the head gasket is that looks like the gasket was leaking. It looks like a little burn through. Also the valves in that picture show what looks like a bit of rust. The second cylinder shows the same but not as bad. If it is rust, it would be from the engine setting and a bit of coolant moisture getting into the combustion chambers. I think that is why the burn around the valves looks a bit funny. Sort of a mixture of rust and carbon and took on this look after setting. I don't know if anti-freeze will allow rust but that is what it looks like to me. This may be a good reason to re-torque the head after a few hundred miles from new or rebuild. Not nice because you have to pull the cams to do it. Cylinder #1 (rear most) shows the worst oil problem and almost looks like oil still left on the piston and head. along with having the most carbon build up by a good bit. The ring gap is huge. Make sure you mic the cylinders front to rear and side to side at both the top below the ring ridge and down a couple of inches. Also mic the pistons both directions including the ring grove width. With that much wear on the piston rings, I have to beleive that the cylinder is oversized and the piston undersized. If so, you will need to have it bored and go to oversized pistons and rings. Sorry; Might as well have the valves ground too then everything will be fresh like a new engine.

Lenny

Thanks Lenny, I appreciate your scrutiny, I'm thinking the moisture is from the trip home from my last ride before I parked it, came home in a storm, washed it and parked it without driving it enough to get it good and warm and dry, OOPS, Then as I took it apart, I had some water come out of the air intake tube when I pulled it.

#1 cylinder is most rearward, furthest from the clutch, Right?

I tried to post the photos in order and went from left to right which just happen to end up 1 to 4, radiator to clutch, and the compression data was 95, 95, 125, 155, #4 to #1.

So #4 has the worst carbon build up and with the worst gap and the worst compression. I haven't figured out why the gap and the compression went from best to worst, 1 to 4 but I blame the problem on the shit air filter that came with it and location of the filter on the stock set up, I fount the intake tubing had a fine brown dust coating on the inside which is why I push everyone to get a snorkel set up to get the filter up out of the dirt and get a K&N or better air filter. I even thinking of going back to the old oil bath air filter from days gone by sometimes.

When it comes to boring, I assume any engine or machine shop can do that, but doing the valves, is that something any shop can do or do they need to be Chery engine people? pm coming

Kinarfi

[Guest Lenny]

Thanks Lenny, I appreciate your scrutiny, I'm thinking the moisture is from the trip home from my last ride before I parked it, came home in a storm, washed it and parked it without driving it enough to get it good and warm and dry, OOPS, Then as I took it apart, I had some water come out of the air intake tube when I pulled it.

#1 cylinder is most rearward, furthest from the clutch, Right?

I tried to post the photos in order and went from left to right which just happen to end up 1 to 4, radiator to clutch, and the compression data was 95, 95, 125, 155, #4 to #1.

So #4 has the worst carbon build up and with the worst gap and the worst compression. I haven't figured out why the gap and the compression went from best to worst, 1 to 4 but I blame the problem on the shit air filter that came with it and location of the filter on the stock set up, I fount the intake tubing had a fine brown dust coating on the inside which is why I push everyone to get a snorkel set up to get the filter up out of the dirt and get a K&N or better air filter. I even thinking of going back to the old oil bath air filter from days gone by sometimes.

When it comes to boring, I assume any engine or machine shop can do that, but doing the valves, is that something any shop can do or do they need to be Chery engine people? pm coming

Kinarfi

Number one cylinder is always the end of the engine with the pullys for alternator etc. So, number 1 is at the rear. Any engine shop can do the boring and valves. You will probably have to source the pistons and rings.

Lenny

[Kinarfi]

While my Trooper is down and I'm waiting for parts, I decided to play with the fuse block and relays behind the driver's seat. I am pulling the relays out and replacing them with solid state FETs that are good for about 72 amps. Unfortunately, the FETs I have to use, P channel, need the gate to go negative to be able to switch the power on the positive side, so I had to invert the signal with an N channel FET. Any way, Here's the way MY 08 Trooper is wired at that fuse and relay box. (before my changes)

This is one of the photos I took while taking things apart, I also coordinated it with pictures in the 2009 owners manual and that is also the schematic I started with.

At the bottom of this page is kind of an explanation of what is the coil and what is the contacts of my FET set up. What I think is important is the colors I found and traced and marked. If someone need the standard schematic marked up, let me know.

Kinarfi

Another comment, when it comes to schematics, if they are saved as a .jpg, it smears the lines, especially the colored lines and takes up more space, where as when saved as a .png, the line come out better and cleaner and uses less space, but web shots doesn't seem to like them, so I attached the .png and uploaded the .jps of the same schematic.

[Guest Lenny]

While my Trooper is down and I'm waiting for parts, I decided to play with the fuse block and relays behind the driver's seat. I am pulling the relays out and replacing them with solid state FETs that are good for about 72 amps. Unfortunately, the FETs I have to use, P channel, need the gate to go negative to be able to switch the power on the positive side, so I had to invert the signal with an N channel FET. Any way, Here's the way MY 08 Trooper is wired at that fuse and relay box. (before my changes)

This is one of the photos I took while taking things apart, I also coordinated it with pictures in the 2009 owners manual and that is also the schematic I started with.

At the bottom of this page is kind of an explanation of what is the coil and what is the contacts of my FET set up. What I think is important is the colors I found and traced and marked. If someone need the standard schematic marked up, let me know.

Kinarfi

Another comment, when it comes to schematics, if they are saved as a .jpg, it smears the lines, especially the colored lines and takes up more space, where as when saved as a .png, the line come out better and cleaner and uses less space, but web shots doesn't seem to like them, so I attached the .png and uploaded the .jps of the same schematic.

Good job Kinarfi. You get the title of "Forums Electronic Wiz". I have the original rough schematics I did yet. I started to send them off to you. They were in a stamped envelope and sitting waiting to go. I pulled them because I needed to look at something. I'll get them back into the envelope today.

Lenny

[rocmoc]

Yeah, pull the Super Dupper Mod title and replace it with the new Electronic Wiz title. Then I would be back on top of the heap.

And what is this NEW title you have anyway Kinarfi. This is a conspiracy.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

[Kinarfi]

Yeah, pull the Super Dupper Mod title and replace it with the new Electronic Wiz title. Then I would be back on top of the heap.

And what is this NEW title you have anyway Kinarfi. This is a conspiracy.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

How's this work for you? OK, I guess I've beat this horse to death, after you agree, I'll drop the super A #1 nonsense.

[Kinarfi]

here's a bit of correction for the schematic, at least the part in the blue.