Quantcast
Jump to content


Hisun Vector 500 10 hour inspection

Pop Bob

By Pop Bob
in UTV General Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Pop Bob Contributor

Pop Bob

Posted
Posted

IMG_2693.thumb.jpeg.83071d1c20e5d366edbf308be6a14595.jpegAfter 10 hours of use, my machine had developed a low speed brake squeal. I removed the brake assembly and discovered that everything was put together dry. Not even lubrication on the caliper pins. After lubricating and reassembly, the squeal has disappeared. I will do the other three wheels today. Also, all grease fittings were under-greased (if at all) based on the amount of grease filled before they purged. This includes the drivelines. Next- I found many screws which were loose and/or stripped. I was able to tighten or fix them with my tap and die set. The lower a-arms on the front do not have grease zerks. I will remove the arms and install some. I guess I’m not surprised or even disappointed. These are just things that should be looked at on any machine. One thing I am pissed about though, is this “weld from hell” on the front . Totally unacceptable. For sure there will be water entry and eventual internal rust. 
(see photo) I will fix it. I did an oil and filter change which some of you will say was not necessary. But break-in time is when you are most likely to have contamination from production and initial wear-in. BTW there was some metal in the filter. Cheap insurance to change often. Engine access is very difficult on this machine compared to other  models. You have to remove lots of stuff to get to it. But I still like the machine very much, and I’m having a ball with it. Future plans include lights, cab enclosure and heater. Winters are long in Northern Michigan. 
PB

ibike Apprentice

ibike

Posted
Posted

It’s best to do a good inspection on all nuts bolts and areas needing lube. Make sure everything actually functions like they should. My front axle had trouble engaging and eventually completely stopped working. New parts are on their way to fix that. It helps to be mechanically inclined on these things. Don’t know if the more expensive rides are better built, and trouble free but like you I’m enjoying mine. 

  • Like 1
Alien10 Enthusiast

Alien10

Posted
Posted

My Coleman Outfitter (Hisun) 550 also had no grease in any of the greaseable fittings.  Looks like assembled with the parts as is, and shipped for sale.

Best to go over almost everything just to be sure. 

 

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • SpaceGhost
      New guy with new (to me) machine
      By SpaceGhost
      As with any forum you join, there is a requirement for an obligatory introduction... and that seems fair. How else do you get that first post in there without jumping in with some stupid question right out of nowhere?

      Hi. I'm Space Ghost. Well, not really, but that was my call sign on my last deployment before an IED made me non-deployable, and I an now retired/disabled, and living on my wonderful VA disability. I did almost 28 years in total between the Army, Army Reserve, and National Guard. 1 deployment with the Reserve (Desert Storm) and 3 with the Guard (1 pre, and 2 post 9/11)

      Married (going on 30 years) one of each. (both out of the nest)
       
      Just picked up my first side by side a couple days ago. A 2020 Can-Am Defender HD10 DPS 6x6. 

       
      It's in pretty good shape, but as you can probably tell, it's sitting a bit high. Former owner put a lifting collar on the shocks. 

       
      The good = almost 17" of ground clearance. (30" tires) 
      The bad = incredibly steep driveline angles, and a pretty stiff ride. 
       
      They will be coming off. 
       
      Other than that... clean as a pin and appears very well maintained. 
       
      Looking forward to seeing what this forum can bring, and hoping I can bring something in return. 
    • Alien10
      Coleman Outfitter 550 E Brake adjustment
      By Alien10
      This is the E Brake, the one that is on the center drive shaft rotor below the dump bed. It is NOT related to any of the wheel disc brakes. 
      A few months after purchasing my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun) new,  the E brake stopped working.  Thought it had got water or oil on it as it gradually went from good holding to poor holding to literally NO holding.  Been lazy using a piece of 4x4 to keep from rolling, but that's a pain.   So, into the barn I went with work light to see what the heck is wrong. E brake pedal worked, but hit a hard stop and  felt like the cable was froze up from rust but that was not the case.  As it turns out the E brake is actuated by some kind of weird actuator lever/cam arrangement based upon the actuator lever being moved about 15 degrees from its fully released position. That makes the adjustment pretty critical with such little movement.  Bolt "C" in the pic below is the adjustment bolt, held in place by lock nut "B".  Working from below, here is what I did.
      Removed the skid plate below the E brake.   6 bolts and washers.  Next, looked at the brake pads which still had a good amount of pad left on them. Looked to be a little less than 1/8" each.  Verified that the cable from the E brake pedal "A" actuated the E brake arm "D".  Cable "A" pulls and released lever "D" in the direction of the curved arrow.  Applied E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way up with no bare cable "A" showing.  Released E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way down with bare cable "A" showing as in the pic below. That spring pulls the lever to fully released position. Note: I disconnected the release spring from at the lever with needle nosed pliers to make working with the adjustment easier to do without that pressure on the lever.  With E brake released, loosened lock nut "B" and backed it off the lever about 1/8" or so.  Tightened adjustment bolt "C" by hand just until it stopped.  Retightened lock nut "B".   E brake now holds securely on my hillside driveway, and releases completely.  Reinstalled skid plate.  Hope this might be of some help to someone as none of this is in the owner's manual or in diagrams. 
       up.
      Released brake and rechecked the actuator arm, it was all the way down.
       
       
    • Gorj
      Hisun E1 Parking brake
      By Gorj
      I have had my E1 since late last summer and I have always noticed that the parking brake was weak or non existent. About a month or so after I purchased it I mentioned to the dealer that the parking brake did not function well. What I was expecting from the dealer, ' well bring it in and we will correct the issue.' What I got was the typical dealer response, "it may just need to be adjusted." No shit!  Well I finally decided to adjust it. A very simple process need only two 10mm wrenches.  Open the bed, remove the pin holding the bed  to the strut and move the bad out of the way. Right in front of the electric motor is a brake disk.  That is the parking brake. It has a small set of brake pads that are actuated by a lever attached to parking brake cable.  There are two 10 mm nuts on the shaft to moves the pads. Release the inner nut and hold it in place while screwing in the outer nut - that is really a bolt. After screwing it in about one turn, tighten the other nut.  Check the parking brake. If it is holding when activated, then you are good, but if not, then you may have to turn the bolt another turn. Do not turn to far or you will lock it up.
    • Michigan sport.
      Michigan Emergency Brake Road legal Requirement.
      By Michigan sport.
      I'm sure many of you are aware of Michigan's emergency brake requirement.  I'm wondering if anyone has a good solution. 
      Beyond paying the few fab places $$$$.. I'm curious is there another rear caliper with e brake style that would interchange with slight mods to  the Maverick sport rear mounting bracket?
    • mark walkom
      sector e1 regen has stopped (mostly) working
      By mark walkom
      the regen braking on my e1 has stopped working unless (for eg) I am going down a hill in low and it's slowing things down to stick to the 10kph limit. when I drive and take my foot off the accelerator it's not initiating the regen to slow things down and instead just coasts at whatever speed it is at, or speeds up as the regen is not limiting it. the brake lights work, so it's probably not a fault with the sensor on the brake pedal
       
      hoping someone else might be able to provide some suggestions on things to check, as the mob that I bought it off seem to have gone silent on me

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...