Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all Trooper owners,

I had my machine out for a 5 day ride that turned into a near disaster. I was with one of my clubs and we were going up the back road (read rock crawling challenge) to Crown King a small town in the AZ mountains. About 18 miles into a 24 mile trip up the mountain a radiator fitting exploded into the back of the seats. We were lucky we weren't seriously burned.

What happened was about a 3/4 inch piece blew out of the radiator "T" coming out of the water pump ( part No, 02.S650.04.02.02 S650.04.02.02.00 Tee branch 1). T. It was nip and tuck to get up to Crown King where we were headed. We were able to find the piece that blew out and we taped the T back together Luckily there was a stream nearby. I would stop at the water crossings and fill up the radiator, run until the engine got hot and stop at the next stream crossing and repeat the process. One of the guys that was camping with us drove up from our campsite to haul me back to camp. For him it was about a 125 mile round trip.

The part is made of hard rubber and it would be good if you check yours for any signs of cracks. My wife was with me and unfortunately it may be the end of my Trooper days.

Gumball

Posted

Glad you are OK, Interesting, what year is your trooper, mine is an 08 and I have a metal tee, part # SV1100.04.02.00..01 I guess some "improvements" aren't really improvements.

Jeff

Posted

Hi all Trooper owners,

I had my machine out for a 5 day ride that turned into a near disaster. I was with one of my clubs and we were going up the back road (read rock crawling challenge) to Crown King a small town in the AZ mountains. About 18 miles into a 24 mile trip up the mountain a radiator fitting exploded into the back of the seats. We were lucky we weren't seriously burned.

What happened was about a 3/4 inch piece blew out of the radiator "T" coming out of the water pump ( part No, 02.S650.04.02.02 S650.04.02.02.00 Tee branch 1). T. It was nip and tuck to get up to Crown King where we were headed. We were able to find the piece that blew out and we taped the T back together Luckily there was a stream nearby. I would stop at the water crossings and fill up the radiator, run until the engine got hot and stop at the next stream crossing and repeat the process. One of the guys that was camping with us drove up from our campsite to haul me back to camp. For him it was about a 125 mile round trip.

The part is made of hard rubber and it would be good if you check yours for any signs of cracks. My wife was with me and unfortunately it may be the end of my Trooper days.

Gumball

There was an update on the T and is now made of steel

Posted

There was an update and now the T is made of steel. I went to Joyner when they were in Tempe and they gave them to us. There was many parts that should have been a recall ( the dealers had a web on parts that were changed) but most of the dealers never let us know. If you were lucky enough to find out, they would give them to you free. Here is a few of the parts I got. Clutch linage,larger rotors, bigger calipers,rubber boots for the steering,new rear fenders,brackets for rear end to be welded on, 2 different rear drive shafts, the last one being like a half shaft, new fuel sending unit, temp gauge, etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Jim Kessell
      2005 American Landmaster
      EH65 Subaru Robins
      spits fuel from breather hose into the air cleaner and then down into carb.  What’s causing this ??
    • By Jacob E freeman
      I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 I bought brand new almost 2 years ago the first month I had it the exhaust broke and burnt the spark plug wire in two that was a recall so the dealership installed the new one it had a different design and it bolted up to the bottom two plugs below the spark plug the dealership said they had to Adjust the exhaust valves I get the machine back thanking everything is good now wrong not even a week after I get it back the timing chain tensioner comes apart inside the motor I take it back to the dealership They put one on I get the machine back thanking everything is good but then just like before not even a week goes by when I was riding the Machine automatically quits going come to find out the wet clutch was burned up the primary clutch head stripped off of the splines I get that fixed and then  it overheats I take it back they bleed the air out of the coolant they bring it back to me the same day that I get it back it overheats again I take it back they temporarily fix it again just enough to let the warranty run out and now the machine has been to multiple different mechanics I have had them try to bleed the air out they have stood it up on its end I have had the water pump changed I have had the fan hooked to a switch so I could leave it on all the time but still almost 2 years later not even 200 hours on the machine and I cannot ride it The dealership will not take it back as a lemon I have tried I am at my wits end I have no clue what to try next
    • By redneckred
      I have a 2012 Bennche Bighorn 700X.  I bought it used.  It had been sitting in a field for several years untouched.  I put a new sun gear in the shifter, new shifter linkage due to the old one having been patched, and a new battery (and of course fresh fuel).  The machine cranked and ran beautifully.  I had it over a year and then the machine quit running.  As it would not stay cranked, I narrowed the problem down to a bad IAC valve.  I replaced it and it ran as good as new/old.  Fast forward, the machine started to act like reverse wasn't catching and would not always back up when in gear.  Then forward quit.  I assumed a bad CVT belt and got one.  Started removing the bolts from the cover and (3) just turn in the housing without coming loose.  (2) are on the bottom, so very little room to do anything with them.  I tried cranking the machine again to see the belt move since I can move the cover enough to see the belt and now the machine will not crank.  It turns over fine.  It gets gas to the injector and has spark.  I can spray cleaner down her throat and she would run until it ran out.  I have replaced the IAC twice and put a new injector with no change.  I went out and put the old injector back in to see if that made any difference and, well, it did.  I tried to crank the machine and the starter is stuck trying to turn the machine over even with the key off.  I have to disconnect the battery to stop it.  Before I shoot this thing, what am I missing?  Is this an ECM problem or something else I am not seeing?  Been dealing with these Gremlins for over a month now and weeds are starting to overtake the motor due to it not moving.  I would love to get the thing running first and any ideas of getting those CVT cover bolts out would be extremely helpful.  Thanks in advance.
    • By Fishing Wiskers
      Top speed is 30mph on flat grass ground.  but it will not go up minor hills forward or reverse without a runing start.  If you start at the bottom of the hill machine will stop about 1/2 way up.  I have the engine cover off and you can see the outside of the drive clutch will stop spining., and the engine does bogg down some.  Dosent matter if engine is cold or warmed up.  Seat belts are connected.  Fuel is clean
      I am the 5th shop to look at it and different shops have replaced the fuel pump, injector, ign coil, wet clutch, 
      I am not sure how to check for codes with this machine,  can anyone teall me how to do it?
       
      Compression with hot eng is 145,  valves adjusted to .005 with a cold engine.  Dash shows 426 hours
      I am not convinced it's an engine problem
    • By Browner010
      Recently I had an overheating issue on my 2022 Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun UT550) and to check to make sure it was fixed I took it out for a ride around the block. After a couple cycles on the LED coolant meter, I took it for a couple mile ride and on my way back I heard a loud metallic snap then a grinding noise. It was still able to move under its own power but very slowly. I was about 2 blocks from the truck so 'I limped it home and up onto the trailer. I know I need to tear it apart and look for what broke, but anyone have a guess as to where to start? I'm seriously getting tired of this damn machine! 750 miles on it and already replaced the belt, wet clutch, primary clutch, clutch roller weights among a few other things. Seriously, this friggin machine has spent more time on the lift than on the road. I thought I bought this new because it was from the owner of a tractor supply, but he registered it under the stores name making me the 2nd owner voiding any and all warranties.
      Any Ideas what to look for would be appreciated.
      Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...