2022 Bobcat 34XL Brake pedal depress to start getting impossible
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By Greg Kilgore
I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can.
I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle.
We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job.
Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home.
Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good.
But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy.
Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.
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By Alien10
This is the E Brake, the one that is on the center drive shaft rotor below the dump bed. It is NOT related to any of the wheel disc brakes.
A few months after purchasing my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun) new, the E brake stopped working. Thought it had got water or oil on it as it gradually went from good holding to poor holding to literally NO holding. Been lazy using a piece of 4x4 to keep from rolling, but that's a pain. So, into the barn I went with work light to see what the heck is wrong. E brake pedal worked, but hit a hard stop and felt like the cable was froze up from rust but that was not the case. As it turns out the E brake is actuated by some kind of weird actuator lever/cam arrangement based upon the actuator lever being moved about 15 degrees from its fully released position. That makes the adjustment pretty critical with such little movement. Bolt "C" in the pic below is the adjustment bolt, held in place by lock nut "B". Working from below, here is what I did.
Removed the skid plate below the E brake. 6 bolts and washers. Next, looked at the brake pads which still had a good amount of pad left on them. Looked to be a little less than 1/8" each. Verified that the cable from the E brake pedal "A" actuated the E brake arm "D". Cable "A" pulls and released lever "D" in the direction of the curved arrow. Applied E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way up with no bare cable "A" showing. Released E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way down with bare cable "A" showing as in the pic below. That spring pulls the lever to fully released position. Note: I disconnected the release spring from at the lever with needle nosed pliers to make working with the adjustment easier to do without that pressure on the lever. With E brake released, loosened lock nut "B" and backed it off the lever about 1/8" or so. Tightened adjustment bolt "C" by hand just until it stopped. Retightened lock nut "B". E brake now holds securely on my hillside driveway, and releases completely. Reinstalled skid plate. Hope this might be of some help to someone as none of this is in the owner's manual or in diagrams.
up.
Released brake and rechecked the actuator arm, it was all the way down.
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By JDawg
Was using the machine all day to haul wood...no issues until the end...
When I try to start it, the dash lights come on but starter does not...seems like no power to the starter.
It is in park, but when I put the brake on to start, it registers N.
Won't start in neutral either...
Tried rocking it, did not help...
Help...
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By Gorj
I have had my E1 since late last summer and I have always noticed that the parking brake was weak or non existent. About a month or so after I purchased it I mentioned to the dealer that the parking brake did not function well. What I was expecting from the dealer, ' well bring it in and we will correct the issue.' What I got was the typical dealer response, "it may just need to be adjusted." No shit! Well I finally decided to adjust it. A very simple process need only two 10mm wrenches. Open the bed, remove the pin holding the bed to the strut and move the bad out of the way. Right in front of the electric motor is a brake disk. That is the parking brake. It has a small set of brake pads that are actuated by a lever attached to parking brake cable. There are two 10 mm nuts on the shaft to moves the pads. Release the inner nut and hold it in place while screwing in the outer nut - that is really a bolt. After screwing it in about one turn, tighten the other nut. Check the parking brake. If it is holding when activated, then you are good, but if not, then you may have to turn the bolt another turn. Do not turn to far or you will lock it up.
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By SouthernGypsy
We have a 2018 Cub Cadet Challenger 400 and I found this Internally Threaded Bolt with a 10mm head size laying in the floor of the shop bay here on our ranch where we park the Cub Cadet.
Trying to figure out where it belongs...
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