Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone installed an aftermarket electrical temp gauge that works with stock wiring? I was having problems with inaccurate readings (fluctuations) so I bought an Autometer electric gauge and wired up using stock wiring. The gauge works but is reading a little over 100 degrees and that was with the engine cold right after I fired it up. Got all the way up to almost 250. So, I put the stock gauge back on and it read correctly - right around 194-200. I then put the new Autometer back on and just hooked up the ignition and ground and it read nothing. Put the sending unit wire on and the reading was still high. Unfortunately, I will have to get adapters to get the new Autometer sending unit to work as the adapters they give you won't work and the sending unit itself is just a bit too small to fit. I was hoping it might work as I put in an Autometer oil pressure gauge and didn't have to buy any fittings. The sending unit actually screwed right into the block and it was easy. So, any ideas on what I can do with the stock wiring or am I destined to running a new wire along with getting adapters to get this to work. Autometer gauge is part#5837 which is 2 5/8" and I will have to round out the hole in the dash some more to get it to fit nicely.

Guest Lenny
Posted

Has anyone installed an aftermarket electrical temp gauge that works with stock wiring? I was having problems with inaccurate readings (fluctuations) so I bought an Autometer electric gauge and wired up using stock wiring. The gauge works but is reading a little over 100 degrees and that was with the engine cold right after I fired it up. Got all the way up to almost 250. So, I put the stock gauge back on and it read correctly - right around 194-200. I then put the new Autometer back on and just hooked up the ignition and ground and it read nothing. Put the sending unit wire on and the reading was still high. Unfortunately, I will have to get adapters to get the new Autometer sending unit to work as the adapters they give you won't work and the sending unit itself is just a bit too small to fit. I was hoping it might work as I put in an Autometer oil pressure gauge and didn't have to buy any fittings. The sending unit actually screwed right into the block and it was easy. So, any ideas on what I can do with the stock wiring or am I destined to running a new wire along with getting adapters to get this to work. Autometer gauge is part#5837 which is 2 5/8" and I will have to round out the hole in the dash some more to get it to fit nicely.

You shouldn't need to change the wiring but you will have to use the sensor that came with the gauge.

LEnny

Posted

Lenny, thanks for the info. Then the next question would be which of the 3 wires going into the current sensor should i use. I looked at them and none match exactly with the wires connected to the gauge itself. Would be easy if there was as an exact match but there isn't. Any ideas!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By gwares
      Price : 2500 EUR
       
      The Ultra Bee T offers the fastest acceleration of any road-legal electric motorcycle at this price-point, with the flexibility to deal with a wide range of surfaces. With its huge capability the Ultra Bee T will appeal to people looking for a great medium distance commuter, that’s also able to turn its hand to off-road riding and green laning.
       
      Everything works and new!
      We try to capture everything in photos for you.
      If you have any questions or need other photos, just ask, thanks.
      Send a direct message to make an inquiry or text:
      WhatsApp: +33 758 56 21 59




    • By BMurph
      Hi everyone. I am new here to the forum and am excited to learn from all of you with more experience than me with UTVs. Our Axis750 we use on the hobby farm started to have some issues going into gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and completely stopped as required with these machines. I thought it was the linkage and adjusted it to where it is accurately shifting with the engine off and key in the on position. I start the engine and it won't shift gears (yes foot is on the brake). I thought maybe it was the shift lever teeth so I opened the assembly and this picture shows what I just found. I assume this means the wet clutch would need replaced too while draining and flushing the oil. What else should I consider or be looking at? Any idea what could cause this? I don't see visible leaks or cracks in the system anywhere. Thanks in advance for the help!
       
       

    • By boydog40
      my subaru gave it up, bought a new Predator 670cc
      problems is, wiring the buggy to the new motor, OEM key switch has 5 wires (red, green, yellow, black and brown)
      new motor has many more wires than the Subaru and i have no idea what goes where!!!
      finding any info on the web is almost impossible to do also
      any help will be greatly appreciated!
      thanks guys
    • By SouthernGypsy
      We have a 2018 Cub Cadet Challenger 400 and I found this Internally Threaded Bolt with a 10mm head size laying in the floor of the shop bay here on our ranch where we park the Cub Cadet.
      Trying to figure out where it belongs...
       




    • Get More For Your Device
    • By JSwearer
      Does anyone have any suggestions for aftermarket shocks.  I have a T-Boss 550 and took it riding in some rough trails and the stock suspension was uncomfortably rough.
      Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...