Quantcast
Jump to content


Aftermarket Temp Gauges

bruhaw

By bruhaw
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

bruhaw Collaborator

bruhaw

Posted
Posted

Has anyone installed an aftermarket electrical temp gauge that works with stock wiring? I was having problems with inaccurate readings (fluctuations) so I bought an Autometer electric gauge and wired up using stock wiring. The gauge works but is reading a little over 100 degrees and that was with the engine cold right after I fired it up. Got all the way up to almost 250. So, I put the stock gauge back on and it read correctly - right around 194-200. I then put the new Autometer back on and just hooked up the ignition and ground and it read nothing. Put the sending unit wire on and the reading was still high. Unfortunately, I will have to get adapters to get the new Autometer sending unit to work as the adapters they give you won't work and the sending unit itself is just a bit too small to fit. I was hoping it might work as I put in an Autometer oil pressure gauge and didn't have to buy any fittings. The sending unit actually screwed right into the block and it was easy. So, any ideas on what I can do with the stock wiring or am I destined to running a new wire along with getting adapters to get this to work. Autometer gauge is part#5837 which is 2 5/8" and I will have to round out the hole in the dash some more to get it to fit nicely.

Guest Lenny

Guest Lenny

Posted
Posted

Has anyone installed an aftermarket electrical temp gauge that works with stock wiring? I was having problems with inaccurate readings (fluctuations) so I bought an Autometer electric gauge and wired up using stock wiring. The gauge works but is reading a little over 100 degrees and that was with the engine cold right after I fired it up. Got all the way up to almost 250. So, I put the stock gauge back on and it read correctly - right around 194-200. I then put the new Autometer back on and just hooked up the ignition and ground and it read nothing. Put the sending unit wire on and the reading was still high. Unfortunately, I will have to get adapters to get the new Autometer sending unit to work as the adapters they give you won't work and the sending unit itself is just a bit too small to fit. I was hoping it might work as I put in an Autometer oil pressure gauge and didn't have to buy any fittings. The sending unit actually screwed right into the block and it was easy. So, any ideas on what I can do with the stock wiring or am I destined to running a new wire along with getting adapters to get this to work. Autometer gauge is part#5837 which is 2 5/8" and I will have to round out the hole in the dash some more to get it to fit nicely.

You shouldn't need to change the wiring but you will have to use the sensor that came with the gauge.

LEnny

bruhaw Collaborator

bruhaw

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Lenny, thanks for the info. Then the next question would be which of the 3 wires going into the current sensor should i use. I looked at them and none match exactly with the wires connected to the gauge itself. Would be easy if there was as an exact match but there isn't. Any ideas!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • JSwearer
      T-Boss 550 aftermarket suspension suggestions
      By JSwearer
      Does anyone have any suggestions for aftermarket shocks.  I have a T-Boss 550 and took it riding in some rough trails and the stock suspension was uncomfortably rough.
      Thanks
    • SouthernGypsy
      Help needed, Anyone recognize where this Internally Threaded Bolt belongs?
      By SouthernGypsy
      We have a 2018 Cub Cadet Challenger 400 and I found this Internally Threaded Bolt with a 10mm head size laying in the floor of the shop bay here on our ranch where we park the Cub Cadet.
      Trying to figure out where it belongs...
       




    • se3388
      Anyone else with a UT10X?
      By se3388
      Hopefully someone else will buy a UT10X and join in.
       
      Steve.............
    • Greg Kilgore
      Heater installed 2021 Axis 500
      By Greg Kilgore
      Last year bought a small universal coolant style cab heater. Well I installed it today. Thanks to another member, RangeRider45, and his install
       
      That told in his post the size fitting he used. I got the same fittings plus a few others. And all went kinda smooth. Took a few minutes to get air purged from coolant system. Should have parked on hill with front up in the air. But would have had a hard time working on it.
      I had a variable power switch connected to an overhead cab fan. Never really used the fan that much. And I have to remove the fan to put on my cab enclosure anyway. So I repurposed the switch to supply power for the heater. The heater has 2 12-volt DC computer fans that are rated for 1.8 amps each. So it's not going to be a big drain on the weak charging system. And with the switch I've got great control over the speed of the fans.
      If anyone is interested the radiator hoses are 7/8 inch. I reworked the temperature sending unit (moved it closer to radiator) to make room for all the extra plumbing I did to get the heater to work the way I wanted. 
      Plumbing parts list.
      10-15 worm water clamps. 3/4 to 1 1/4 inch size.
      2 1" x 3/4" x 1" PEX Tee
      1 3/4" PEX ball valve
      1 1" PEX ball valve
      5/8" heater hose. I got 6' and probably have 4' left over.
      I used the radiator house I cut out to use as splices between the PEX fittings. The PEX fittings are not true to their dimensions that are stated on the package. So they fit the 5/8" and 7/8" very nicely.
      They way I have it plumbed is from radiation out side. A tee, then the 1" ball valve, then a Tee. Coming off the Tees are the hoses going to the heater core. There is a 3/4" ball valve on one of the Tees. The ball valves are used to bypass the heater core in the summer. Or direct the hot coolant through the heater core in winter. The temperature sending unit tells me how hot the coolant is. And if anything is getting too hot. The dash also has an idiot light that comes on if the head gets too hot. But doesn't do anything if the radiator gets too hot. There is a temp sensor on the radiator that controls the electrical fan. But if the coolant isn't circulating. That switch never sends a signal to turn on the fan. But enough talking/rambling. Everyone wants to see pics. The only thing I need to change is the orientation of the handle on the 1" ball valve. I have 2" or more clearance between the handle and the tire when cut hard right. But I still don't like it. And instead of taking the valve out and rotating 180°. I'm just going to take the nut off and rotate the handle 180°. Think I need to make a locking mechanism to lock the handles in place so they don't vibrate closed when the machine is moving.
      The temperature sending unit and housing. Size 22 mm. Aluminum from Amazon.

      Upper Tee the lower Tee is identical. Can also see the handle of the 3/4" ball valve on the 5/8" hose going to the heater.

      The 1" ball valve. Goes between the 2 Tees

      Wide view of the plumbing.

      The heater installed in the sxs. The 3 black hoses are just hanging there. Zip ties to the heater but not attached to any thing. Will probably just direct 2 toward the wife's feet. And 1 toward mine. Or what ever is need as the heat is needed on rides. The black hose in passenger floorboard is some 1" hose that is not needed. Don't know what I'll do with it.

       
      I think if I was going to do it again. I'd put some Indian Head gasket dressing or silicone on the 1" side of the PEX fittings. And I may still do that. But I really hate the ideal of introducing air back in the coolant system.
       
      Any questions just ask. It may take a while to answer. But I'll try.
      Ya be good and stay warm over the next few months 
       
      Kilgore.
    • mark walkom
      sector e1 regen has stopped (mostly) working
      By mark walkom
      the regen braking on my e1 has stopped working unless (for eg) I am going down a hill in low and it's slowing things down to stick to the 10kph limit. when I drive and take my foot off the accelerator it's not initiating the regen to slow things down and instead just coasts at whatever speed it is at, or speeds up as the regen is not limiting it. the brake lights work, so it's probably not a fault with the sensor on the brake pedal
       
      hoping someone else might be able to provide some suggestions on things to check, as the mob that I bought it off seem to have gone silent on me

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...