Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

So, after a bit of work on the trooper, it was finally time to get it out and run it, WRONG! Went to fill it up with gas and there is about a 6 inch crack towards the top of the tank.

So far, the front diff has been rebuilt and a new diff put in the rear. Now the tank is out and my dad will see if someone can fix it this week.

My question is, I read somewhere a long time ago about Joyner upgrading tanks or gas tank issues??? Is this correct and were there faulty tanks in the past? Is there a better direction to take this rather than patching the tank and putting it back in?

Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks.

Posted

So, after a bit of work on the trooper, it was finally time to get it out and run it, WRONG! Went to fill it up with gas and there is about a 6 inch crack towards the top of the tank.

So far, the front diff has been rebuilt and a new diff put in the rear. Now the tank is out and my dad will see if someone can fix it this week.

My question is, I read somewhere a long time ago about Joyner upgrading tanks or gas tank issues??? Is this correct and were there faulty tanks in the past? Is there a better direction to take this rather than patching the tank and putting it back in?

Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks.

My first one had the support tabs break off. The second came with more support tabs and a longer, easier access filler tube, don't what mods you want to make while it's out, but you may want to add the surge tank and aux fuel pump and definitely beef up the mounts or maybe rubber mount it. If you have the short fill tube, cut it off and relocate it for easier filling and reconnect with rubber hose. Really no sense in scrapping what you got, but it's always an option.

Kinarfi

Posted

My first one had the support tabs break off. The second came with more support tabs and a longer, easier access filler tube, don't what mods you want to make while it's out, but you may want to add the surge tank and aux fuel pump and definitely beef up the mounts or maybe rubber mount it. If you have the short fill tube, cut it off and relocate it for easier filling and reconnect with rubber hose. Really no sense in scrapping what you got, but it's always an option.

Kinarfi

Kinarfi,

Does the surge tank eliminate the engine dying while going down steep declines? Where did you mount yours?

I actually prefer the original (short) filler tube. Although it isn't in the most convenient location for filling, it is reasuring to me I can look inside and confirm exactly how much fuel I have. Also, I can look inside and see if there is debris in my tank--especially in the suction & return ports.

Posted

Does the surge tank eliminate the engine dying while going down steep declines? Where did you mount yours?

YES, that is the reason I put mine in, and I had that problem several times before I figured it out and corrected it with a surge tank, have you read the topic on my surge tank yet?

I actually prefer the original (short) filler tube. Although it isn't in the most convenient location for filling, it is reasuring to me I can look inside and confirm exactly how much fuel I have. Also, I can look inside and see if there is debris in my tank--especially in the suction & return ports.

Your correct about that part, makes me want to install a light inside mine so I can see what's in there, I did run a tube up the side of my tank so it would server as a sight glass, but it doesn't work too well and it's always dirty.

Kinarfi

Posted

Does the surge tank eliminate the engine dying while going down steep declines? Where did you mount yours?

YES, that is the reason I put mine in, and I had that problem several times before I figured it out and corrected it with a surge tank, have you read the topic on my surge tank yet?

I actually prefer the original (short) filler tube. Although it isn't in the most convenient location for filling, it is reasuring to me I can look inside and confirm exactly how much fuel I have. Also, I can look inside and see if there is debris in my tank--especially in the suction & return ports.

Your correct about that part, makes me want to install a light inside mine so I can see what's in there, I did run a tube up the side of my tank so it would server as a sight glass, but it doesn't work too well and it's always dirty.

Kinarfi

I found the info on the surge tank--thanks! I am liking this one I found online:

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=FST02

If it works out I will update the forum.

Posted

I found the info on the surge tank--thanks! I am liking this one I found online:

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=FST02

If it works out I will update the forum.

That looks really good, if you want to make your own, You could use a ~24" X 2" pipe with end caps instead of the big piece tubing I used and just drill and tap the bottom cap for drain, low in pipe for the pickup and 3 holes in the top cap, one for fuel in, one for fuel return, one for vent/return to tank.

When it comes to filling the tube, there are 2 themes, first is to use a low pressure pump running all the time, the other is to sense the fuel level and switch the pump on and off as the fuel level in the tube rises and falls, that's what I have. If you use something like a mr.gasket pump and let it run all the time, the fuel keeps getting recirculated back to the main tank, which may be good depending on how much heat is added to the fuel as it goes through the main pump several times, just a thought. Another thought is that once the surge tank is full and capped off, the main pump should suck fuel into it and you would only need the aux pump to bleed any air out.

Kinarfi

One more thought, as time goes on, water vapor turns to water and will accumulate in the tank, I made sure mine had a drain at the lowest point so I could flush water, dirt, etc. and if I need a bit of gas to wash a part or to build a fire while out, I have an easy access point to my fuel.

Started looking for my write up on my surge tank, couldn't find, but here's some photos of the build.

2792659760104110397CTqhDY_th.jpg

first of several

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Xov
      Just received delivery of a 2024 AMP Pro.  Thought I'd start a thread with my impressions as I use it and learn more.  There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of real-world usage information out there on this model.  Hope this will help others as they research.
      Intended Use Cases
      Fire mitigation / slash removal from a 5 acre forested and well-gamble-oaked property.  The previous owners thought as much about fire mitigation as I do about fashion: not much. Snow removal Stump pulling General hauling (rock, lumber, etc.) Weimaraner energy depletion.  Wasn't an original use case, but a nice added bonus.  Experiences So Far
      Wasn't impressed that two of the bumpers on the underside of the bed where it sits upon the frame were missing.  The metal on metal contact has damaged the powder coating and the frame.  I expect a little better QC.
      I've only put a few hours on it, so not a ton to report on usage.  It isn't quiet; it's silent.  I can't even detect an electric note from the motor. I removed (and subsequently replaced) the motor cover noticed that the motor is German and made by Schambuller.  The motor controller is Italian and made by Dana TM4.  Given the operating specs of both I found on the web, I suspect both are higher quality than the previous Navitas (which is supposed to be decent).  The motor is rated at 25 hp and 71.5 lb-ft of torque.  It feels very powerful.  All the torque is delivered instantly, if desired.
      The bed is huge and has an electric dump as standard.  Great feature but would like it to go up a bit more.  Probably not feasible from an engineering perspective, but I want and I need ;).
      Power steering is nice, but vague.  Probably common to many UTVs, but I am accustomed to more direct results from input.  Plan early and plan often.
      In our first full day of usage, we hauled about 1/2 as much slash as the entire rest of the year when I was doing it by hand cart.  I may get fatter, but I'll also get more done.  After a few days of usage, the battery meter has gone down by 1/10th. 
      Until next time...


    • By FTG-05
      I want to ditch my Kubota RTV-XG850 and its moronic twitchy throttle design flaw, get rid of the problematic engine and the 40 mph purposely throttled speed.
      So far, I'm looking at the Honda Pioneer 1000 and the Polaris Ranger 1000, both of which have 1000-1500 lb payload bed capacity.
      What other makes and models should I be looking at?
       
      Thanks for the help!
    • By SteveS
      While driving the MSU 800, it runs good but it lately it will not go over 20 MPH. The side by side will hesitate when it reaches 21 MPH, but it will run good under 20 MPH. What is the issue?
    • By rdborra
      I had to remove the relay for the dump bed due to it popping the fuse for main key power. I have tried to find a short but nothing seems to out of normal. I also disconnected the dump motor and switch and still pops the fuse. Also, when the machine is warmed up i get about 5 to 10 of work out of before it stalls. Once I can get it to start again I have to use the choke to keep it running. 
    • By mcraigchr
      Howdy y'all,
      I have the service manual, but it leaves me with questions.
      1)  It is time to change the diff fluid.  The service manual says 80w-90 for the rear and Dextron 3 ATF for the front!  Is that correct?  That seems odd to me.
      2) The service manual also speaks of the need to change the transmission fluid but gives no detail about it.  What needs to happen here?
      3). The service manual also discusses changing the final drive fluid with 80-90 Hypoid.  Is the final drive actually the tranny?
      Any details about the changing of the fluid or what fluid to use ... or even other things that need to be changed that the manual does not mention would be appreciated.
      Thanks,
      Craig C.  
×
×
  • Create New...