Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Well, I guess I won't be taking the trooper out this weekend after all. I was changing my diff fluids last night when I noticed my rear upper diff mount was cracking where the right ear is welded to the frame. The lower left was begining to crack. I have heard talks of two different styles of rear diff mounts. My trooper is a 2008. Not sure if the newer style mounts came on those or not. I looked at these before I went to Moab not long ago and they were fine. I am sure I probably did it when I went went through some deep mud pits with the 30" tires.

I guess now would be a good opportunity to do my diff upgrade and lower my rear diff.

Also, I keep finding all the lead China stopped putting in there paint. Someone keeps filling my diff up with it. <_< I change my diff fluid regularly and I can't believe how much sludge keeps coming out. I hope they have addressed this on the new troopers. The good thing is I haven't had any parts or pieces come out yet. I also get sludge on my engine oil drain plug <_< China needs to hire some new metallurgists.

Posted

2scoops,

The entire cross mount has to be replaced between the two tubes of the frame running from front to rear, about a foot in length. If you weld the existing material it will break again, been there and done that. Replace the bottom/lower mount at the same time as eventually it also will break also. I weld a 2"x1" tubing in the place of the round tubing the H mount (the mount the bolt goes thu on the diff) is currently weld to. I cut the round tubing away from the H mount and used rubber washers between the H mount & new cross mount/support and bolted it to the new rectangle tube. I did this on both the top and lower mounts to remove any future fatiguing of the metal. Thus far it has worked great. Just one idea! The existing metal is too soft and wall thickness varies from nothing to a little more than nothing.

rocmoc n AZ

Posted

Well, I guess I won't be taking the trooper out this weekend after all. I was changing my diff fluids last night when I noticed my rear upper diff mount was cracking where the right ear is welded to the frame. The lower left was begining to crack. I have heard talks of two different styles of rear diff mounts. My trooper is a 2008. Not sure if the newer style mounts came on those or not. I looked at these before I went to Moab not long ago and they were fine. I am sure I probably did it when I went went through some deep mud pits with the 30" tires.

I guess now would be a good opportunity to do my diff upgrade and lower my rear diff.

Also, I keep finding all the lead China stopped putting in there paint. Someone keeps filling my diff up with it. <_< I change my diff fluid regularly and I can't believe how much sludge keeps coming out. I hope they have addressed this on the new troopers. The good thing is I haven't had any parts or pieces come out yet. I also get sludge on my engine oil drain plug <_< China needs to hire some new metallurgists.

I've redone my diff mounts and also lowered it at the same time. One thing you might want to consider that I did is to also eliminate the tube running front to rear just under the oil pan. I replaced it with a good solid bolt in frame member. Now I can get the oil pan off to do whatever to the engine I might need to without having to pull the engine. Have used it twice already. Makes life so much easier should you ever have to get to the lower end of the engine.

Lenny

Posted

That is going to be the hard part in that the 2008 has a weld solid skid plate under the engine. You will have to carefully grind off the welds so you can remove the skid plate. Lenny's idea is great and better than mine as I just left everything in place and bolted a new skid plate in place made of aluminum. Sized a little larger so the bolts with thu the mounts or tubes. Only take 4-6 bolts.

rocmoc n AZ

Posted

2scoops,

The entire cross mount has to be replaced between the two tubes of the frame running from front to rear, about a foot in length. If you weld the existing material it will break again, been there and done that. Replace the bottom/lower mount at the same time as eventually it also will break also. I weld a 2"x1" tubing in the place of the round tubing the H mount (the mount the bolt goes thu on the diff) is currently weld to. I cut the round tubing away from the H mount and used rubber washers between the H mount & new cross mount/support and bolted it to the new rectangle tube. I did this on both the top and lower mounts to remove any future fatiguing of the metal. Thus far it has worked great. Just one idea! The existing metal is too soft and wall thickness varies from nothing to a little more than nothing.

rocmoc n AZ

Hi Rocmoc how are you? Hope that everything is going well for you. Mine are 2009s will it be different from yours? I never checked mine. I should check it now because I have my green one all tore down, and giving it a new look. Are we still planning to do some riding this fall? keep intouch ok? Take care!!!

Stevozz

Posted

The 2008 used round tubing as the cross-member the H mount was weld to for the diff in the rear. The upgrade used rectangle tubing. If looking from the rear towards the diff and there is a rectangle tubing, you are OK.

rocmoc n AZ

Posted

The 2008 used round tubing as the cross-member the H mount was weld to for the diff in the rear. The upgrade used rectangle tubing. If looking from the rear towards the diff and there is a rectangle tubing, you are OK.

rocmoc n AZ

Thanks rocmoc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Nutcase
      I have a Joyner Trooper 1100 4 place that has been sitting for a number of years. I have everything taken care of but i can't get the fuel through the injectors. Fuel pump puts full pressure on them but they don't turn on or spray fuel. Any ideas?
    • By Eagle Mountain Outfitters
      Our R&D team just finished the first unit and wanted to show you guys. Need more cargo space without losing the functionality of being able to fold down the seat to use the full bed? Eagle Mountain Outfitters, the maker of the original metal UTV roof, has designed a foldable rear cargo basket to meet your needs. Price is $625 + $30 shipping.  If you have any question's, please reach out to me at [email protected]
       

    • By tskm
      in desperate need of a rear differential for my 2014 wildcat 1000. It has blown up right in the midst of the hurricane that struck us here in N/W N.C. I could really use this machine right now. No luck finding this from Artic Cat or the many numerous online vendors. Any info or resources wil be greatly appreciated !
      Tom 
    • By TPlummer
      We recently purchased the Axis x550. Fueled it with 93 fuel and drove one time around the farm and the 02 fault error appeared. Any ideas? 
    • eManualonline.com Save 30% OFF Sitewide, Use code: XMAS30
    • By PossumTruck
      Greetings,
      I have a client that wants me to install a heater of some sort to aid in cold weather starting (she uses it at her business, has had issues starting the last few days in sub-zero). I would prefer a coolant heater to a pan heater (silicone pad), but I cant for the life of me find the diameter of the coolant hoses. Heck, I'm not even sure if it would work as well in this application given how long the hose is compared to tractors and trucks I have installed them in. 
      Any advice you could give me would be GREATLY appreciated. 
×
×
  • Create New...